MX-3 4-Cyl. A/T Tune up HELP!!!

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » July 27th, 2006, 12:28 pm

I searched, but didn't find answer that I wanted. I'm trying to replace timing belt, water pump and stuff. I did it at 80,000 miles and now I have 143,000 on my car. I want to use OEM parts as much as possible, so I'd like to buy them ahead before I see my mechanic. He told me to get belts, water pump and some seals. Can you tell me what exactly are those seals and are there any other parts I should replace? BTW, distributor cap/rotor, plugs and wires have been replaced already. I'll also do brake oil flush which I never done before and replace engine mounts and transmission mount. Tube attached to throttle body has a huge crack, so I have to replace it to. I'll keep my MX-3 for a while, so I need to do a good tune up. Is there any cheap online OEM parts store out there? I know Nissan and Mitsubishi, but never found good Mazda online shop. Thanks guys!!!

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » July 27th, 2006, 1:07 pm

just stick with autozone man, they have like a lifetime warranty on most of there parts so you can just get a new one free whenever needed, they dont ask questions.

Post by **Custommx3** » July 27th, 2006, 1:11 pm

Do not get your seals @ autozone... Water pump, belts, and valve cover gaskets are safe to use IMO.
Get seals from mazda. I replaced my front main seal from a Zone one, turns out it was about a hair off as far as size and had to pull the motor back apart again to replace it. This time I used a mazda part...

If your replacing your timing belt.

Replace:
Timing belt
Accessory belts
Water pump
Front main seal
cam seals
Valve cover gaskets

MechaManZero · Post by **MechaManZero** » July 27th, 2006, 2:52 pm

IDK man some people are worthless in autozone seeing that I work with some of the idiots in the zone. Are you sure you got the right seal. Cause what I do when a customer gets mad cause someone gave him the right part, as a return the part I double check and 90% of the time I find the right one because someone looked it up wrong, even if they got another part already lol. What seals did you get at autozone Barry. If your talking about the crankshaft seal, you should have got the felpro timing cover seal kit and it comes with all the right seals... (if its a sealed package and nobody desided to snatch one out before they returned it because some people are scumbags >:O)

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » August 3rd, 2006, 10:54 am

Thanks for the info. Bought all parts from local dealership since they gave me 15% discount. My oil is burning I guess. I have to add little bit from time to time. What do I have to replace?

MechaManZero · Post by **MechaManZero** » August 3rd, 2006, 11:26 am

Oil burning and Oil leaking are two different things, does your engine put out a blueish grey smoke or does your engine have any oil coming out of any gasket areas EX: Valve cover gasket, seals, ect.

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » August 3rd, 2006, 11:47 am

No there's no oil leak anywhere. I checked it myself. No bluish smoke either. I have to add around 1/2 quart between oil change.

MechaManZero · Post by **MechaManZero** » August 3rd, 2006, 12:02 pm

around 140,000 and oil slowly burning sounds right, not really much you cna do for it except maybe put in lucas oil stabilizer next oil change.

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » August 3rd, 2006, 3:35 pm

MechaManZero wrote:around 140,000 and oil slowly burning sounds right, not really much you cna do for it except maybe put in lucas oil stabilizer next oil change.

Thanks for the tip. I have another car which is S13 240SX and switched from Valvoline Maxlife(10w-30) to Mobil 1(10w-30) when she had 100,000miles on it. KA24DE engine needs 4 quarts. I used to get 3 1/2 quarts back with Valvoline, but I don't lose any with Mobil 1. I get full 4 quarts back. Luckily, I had no leaks though. I currently use Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 for my MX-3. Do you think it'll make a difference if switch to synthetic? MX-3 is my daily driver and I change oil every 2 months and it's going to cost a lot. I'll definitely try oil stabilizer next time. One thing that bugs me is I can hear that infamous ticking noise when oil is low. On the other hand, I know it's time to add some oil because of the noise.

MechaManZero · Post by **MechaManZero** » August 4th, 2006, 12:23 pm

Like I say to everyone, its not really good to switch to synthetic on a car with a good amount of miles, I mean your 240sx was probably in decent condition (Plus the motor is practically indestructable as I learned), I would lean more towards using 10w30 castrol GTX with one Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Put the Stabilizer in first cause you want at least one quart of stabilizer in there. Than you should be running like a champ.

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » August 4th, 2006, 2:53 pm

MechaManZero wrote:Like I say to everyone, its not really good to switch to synthetic on a car with a good amount of miles, I mean your 240sx was probably in decent condition (Plus the motor is practically indestructable as I learned), I would lean more towards using 10w30 castrol GTX with one Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Put the Stabilizer in first cause you want at least one quart of stabilizer in there. Than you should be running like a champ.

I know what you are talking about. You are right KA is a very strong engine and I've been maintaining it really good, so didn't see any leak after the switch. Common problem is noise from chanin guides, but I took them out.

Anyway... Okay, my next oil change for MX-3 is coming up, so I'll go with Castrol GTX(2 1/2 quarts) and one quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks!!!

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » August 8th, 2006, 2:48 pm

Tune up is done. Belts, water pump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, trans mount, engine mounts and all the seals and gaskets have been replaced. My mechanic did oil change without asking me and he put Mobil 1 10w-30. I use Mobil 1 for my other cars(240SX & 3000GT), so he just assumed that I put Mobil 1 to MX-3. Anyway, you know what? It's awsome!! Car accelerate very smooth and engine is quiet. I'll see how it works. If there's no leak, I'll just switch to synthetic then.