Air Conditioning blows warm air

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 26th, 2005, 9:41 pm

My suggestion isn't half assed.

I said to check its actually short of gas first. Then - IF there is a leak - fix it. My suggestion to top up with an R12 replacement is sensible if theres a small leak that can be fixed or if you can't locate a leak. Hey the charge in there has lasted for years and years and R12 is a much more efficient gas than R134A. You may be only losing an ounce a year and the accumulation over the years has added up to be enough to drop out the pressure switch.

There is no real reason to go to R134A - ask any fridgie for their honest opinion. Of course they will do the change over and charge you for the parts and labour - thats their income.

anvil82 - the sight glass in in the high pressure line from the condensor to the evaproator - just follow that pipe and you'll find it. Mines tucked away fairly low and a bit hard to see also.

If the system won't hold that R12 recharge, then I'd be tempted to upgrade to the newer stuff...

If the system won't hold R12 it won't hold the newer stuff either. You'd need to repair it.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 26th, 2005, 9:46 pm

anvil82 - to see if theres any pressure in there - locate the high pressure access valve (either on the compressor or in the same pipe as the dryer) and stick a match in there (its like a tyre valve). Do it carefully and make sure you only do it on the HP side if its running as the LP side could be under suction if the gas is low and you'll suck air in. Better to do it with the ac off.

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » April 26th, 2005, 10:13 pm

I had that same problem when I got the car. But about a month later I looked under the hood and voila! No A/C. I have a button for it, and it lights up when I push it, but that isn't your problem.

LMAO.. glad I am not the only one that did that

Then again.. the ad for my car advertised that it had A/C.. I tried to get in touch with the previous owner.. but they have moved

I wanted to give him at least a good b----ing out.. Oh well.. I'll just have to make sure that my GS has A/C when I get it

Tunes67

johnnyb · Post by **johnnyb** » April 26th, 2005, 10:14 pm

the real reason is environmental. R12 is like an aerosol can it kills the ozone thats the reason why car makers were forced to switch their systems to R134a. In fact I'm not even sure that mechanics can legally sell it anymore because its been outlawed for automotive use. Do what you want anvil its not gonna ruin my sleep if you dont switch but let me inform you that the R134a retrofit kit that includes the oil and the fittings needed for the switch costs ~$30 USD so really theres no difference whether you switch or not for cost just that R134a is becoming an underground gas because its my understanding they dont make it anymore (at least what I've read up on) and the R12 you can find now is using up limited supplies. The price will continue to go up where the R134a is still in production.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 26th, 2005, 11:04 pm

I don't think theres any suggestion of using R12 - what I've been suggesting is an R12 equvalent that many manufacturers now produce that is CFC free. The only R12 I've seen for some years now is fridgies who reclaim it from an installation (industrial / commercial - not automotive) and I personally wouldn't use what could be contaminated refrigerant in my vehicle. You haven't been able to buy NEW R12 in Australia for about 10 years now, so theres just none around anyway.

OptiX · Post by **OptiX** » April 27th, 2005, 1:41 am

DO NOT GET THE PROPANE FREON MIXED CRAP. (dexcon or somehting like that...)

... unless you want a potential explosion if you get an accident with the car

... not to mention its a b---- to flush out (and expensive)when later on the propane and freon start to separate.

OptiX · Post by **OptiX** » April 27th, 2005, 1:45 am

freyguy_412 wrote:I had that same problem when I got the car. But about a month later I looked under the hood and voila! No A/C. I have a button for it, and it lights up when I push it, but that isn't your problem.

ha, i have the same issue, also a cruise control switch that just turns on... but doesnt really control anything.

anvil82 · Post by **anvil82** » April 28th, 2005, 4:39 pm

Ok so I checked the pressure by unscrewing the cap on the high pressure side (side with the sightglass) and pressed the valve for a split second and there was a blast of air, then I tried again, and got a blast of air again.

So there is still pressure.

How do I check the clutch for 12v?

Is there a wire readily accessible?

Thanks.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 28th, 2005, 5:10 pm

How do I check the clutch for 12v?

You need either a voltmeter or test light (test light prefered). You need to locate the wire on the compressor that operates the clutch (there sould only be one), disconnect it from the compressor - start car - turn on AC - and check to see if the wire has 12 volts.

If you got 12V - the compressor clutch must be burnt out or else the clutch would pull in.

If you haven't got 12V, the likely culprits are:
- relay
- thermostat
- pressure switch
What I'd do first is, with your test light (or meter), check both sides of the pressure switch for 12V with the AC on as this is the most likely reason. Obviously you should have 12V at both sides of the switch.

If you haven't got a test light or meter, run a temporary wire from battery + to the compressor clutch. Even with the car off the clutch will still pull in. If it pulls in ok, start the car and watch the sight glass. It should go milky and then go clear. Watch closely as when it goes clear it should be FULL of liquid refrigerant - not clear becaus theres none. If it remains overly milky or seems like the refrigerant drains away rather than fills - you're short of gas.

* Just because there is pressure in the system doesn't mean there is enough - there still may not be enough to overcome the low pressure switch. Its a good sign though and means at least the unit won't have moisture in the system.

anvil82 · Post by **anvil82** » April 28th, 2005, 5:42 pm

Ok, well here's something odd.

I disconnected a wire that looked like the right one, and tested both sides, both sides were dead. I reconnected it, and thought I'd look at the watchglass (now that I have found and cleaned it ) it filled up and it looked like the bubbles were going to go away, but it never went completely clear, there was still a small bit of air in it.

Nevertheless I put the ac on full and wtf it is cold!

No idea what happened, but the AC now works.

For how long though is another question.

I'll check back and try those steps if it stops working again (which I assume will happen in the near future).

Thanks for everyone's help.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 28th, 2005, 6:02 pm

I should have mentioned - you probably need to be at about 1500 rpm for the sight glass to clear - maybe you should check it at that - sounds like it should be ok.

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » April 28th, 2005, 6:06 pm

Probably just a loose wire.. but dammit.. now I'm the only thing around here blowing hot air

Tunes67

anvil82 · Post by **anvil82** » May 1st, 2005, 4:03 pm

Ok so of course it doesn't work now.

I jumped the relay though and the thing works fine.

I am going to try to find a relay soon, and post back with results.

anvil82 · Post by **anvil82** » August 23rd, 2005, 2:54 pm

Ok so my AC worked for a while, but it is not working again.

I have jumped the compressor so it runs, but the watch glass does not fill up or have bubbles.

It kind of makes a clicking noise every few seconds.

I checked the pressure on the HP side of the AC line and it read 46 psi.

Is that enough?

I am trying to find out if I have a bad compressor or just low on r12.

Thanks.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » August 23rd, 2005, 5:26 pm

Sounds like you're short of gas.... The clicking might be the pressure switch engaging and then disengaging the compressor clutch.

** Edited to add "the compressor clutch".