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The sensor it a piezo microphone so it's will read as infinite (or 1 or 2 megaohm) resistance. When connected, it has a biasing which is used by the ECU to check its presence. <BR>With the sensor it should read between 1.5 and 3V. FYI, my harness reads about 4V _without_ the sensor.<BR>You can fool ...

You'll need to remove the intake manifold, and the coolant passage tor reach the sensor and a special adaptor tool to remove it. <BR>You should make sure that the fault is not in the wiring instead of the sensor itself. you will save a lot of job.<BR>The wire goes from the sensor to connect to the ...

The aluminum part is the standard replacement part. The platic one was mounted in early year models and tends to crack and drip coolant.

European MX-3 don't have a check engine light.<BR>You can wire the HOLD light to it if you have a manual. You need to install the bulb too. :)<P>A quicker way is to attach a small (1W or less) bulb or a LED to the diag pin in the diag conn. See the probefaq link in David Coleman signature. (section ...

Well, it seems that we have a normalized term in a SAE paper...<P>As a personal note (as we all know what are we talking about) I would like to mention that the flow sensor in the Mx-3 is not a flap style or karman sensor (both are volume based trasducers) as used by toyota or a hot wire type which ...

Total expected cost of a KL03 engine in Spain is about 2500$. KLZE is nearly impossible as nobody specializes in swaps and therefore nobody is in engine import bussiness.<BR>Then you have to add labour, etc..

The reason for not to start is probably one burned fuse. You created a short circuit when twisted all four wires together as two of them are for the sensor heating and carry +B directly from the efi relay and ground. :eek: <BR>If you don't want to use four wire sensors then look at the shop manual ...

Unless you can find the oil under the car in your parking place, you can be buring that missing oil through piston rings or valve seals/guides.<BR>In my case there was the valve seals.<BR>Look what we found when we were fixing the problem... <P>Miguel Fides, '92 Mx-3 1.8L V6

Maybe you replaced your old disty with the same old model, not the revised one.<BR>It is possible and then you may have the igniter failing, cheaper if your can buy it alone.<BR>I think the old was labeled KL01 and the new one KLY1... [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]

Ive been driving more this evening with the plate removed and I am starting to think that the car really performs better in mid and high range and the plate is crap. <P>The accelerator cable slack is not a problem as it can be easily adjusted again to spec.

Does anybody know what is this plate intended for?<BR> <A HREF="http://mfides.dyndns.org/mx-3/rplate.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://mfides.dyndns.org/mx-3/rplate.jpg</A> <BR> <BR>It is mounted as stock between the throttle body and the intake manifold.<BR>Is seems to be a restrictive element as the ...

If the ECUs are that different you probably have one OBDI (the one one with two circuit boards) and other OBDII (newer, only one board)<BR>The newer has different water temp sensor config (actually only one senser instead of two) which also explains the radiator fan behaviour.<BR>Which ECU is the ...

I meant to put exactly the code extracted from the klze ecu in the 1.8L OBDI ecu hardware.<BR>I suppose them to be exactly the same board as they work with the same sensors (except EGR) and were mounted the same years.<BR>You would get the same functionality of the original KLZE (no tweaking) and ...

Can the 1.8L ecu be chipped with the KLZE eprom? Does anyone ever extracted/posted the eprom file?<BR>If you can keep the VAF from the original 1.8L setup you are done...<P>BTW, does anyone have ever tried to tune a KLZE like Mike has done in the KL?

Chipping is a nice (and cheap) solution but...<BR>Does any of you have the ROM file to share?<BR>I have one coming from a standard (Kl-03-MTX) ford probe.<BR>I would be interested in one from a ZE or tuned to it.<P>I think many will be interested too