lower rear tie bar

[illicitQ]

if installing the lower tie bar on an RS, do i just use the same (RS) bolts or use the GS bolts? or are they indifferent?

[atlantamx3]

Use the bolts from your RS. They are the same. I put one on mine with no problems.

[LabradorBoy]

Originally posted by atlantamx3:
Use the bolts from your RS. They are the same. I put one on mine with no problems.

Good to know, thanks. I was under the impression that you needed the GS bolts (and that they were longer to accommodate the additional thickness of the lower rear tie bar).

I now know that's not true at all.

-Rob

[mitmaks]

make sure to torque to specs

[illicitQ]

happen to know the specs??

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Torque specs listed in my factory shop manual are as follows:

68-95 Nm/6.9-9.7 kgm/50-70 ftlb

Hope that helps

[illicitQ]

hey thanks!

[Technica]

Any of you guys have a pic of your tie bars mounted?
I want to make sure mine is mounted properly. I'd like to know what it looks like stock. Can't find it in any manuals and no V-6's have been in my area lately.
Thanks

<small>[ May 18, 2004, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: Technica ]</small>

[LiquidKarma]

hey i'm having a hell of a time geting the old one off... dam i hate rust .... can't wait till i have the new one on...

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Originally posted by Technica:
Any of you guys have a pic of your tie bars mounted?
I want to make sure mine is mounted properly. I'd like to know what it looks like stock. Can't find it in any manuals and no V-6's have been in my area lately.
Thanks

Sorry no pics of mine and my digicam is loaned out until end of May. If you're putting a stock GS one on an RS, maybe this will help,

Look for a pointer type of mark on center of the bar. On mine, it was a white paint mark, looked almost hand done, about an inch wide. Mount the bar positioned with the mark pointing toward the front of the car from the TOP of the bar. i.e. your center section of the bar will end up higher and actually forward of the bolt locations due to it's shape. Hope that helps...

[MX3-Freak]

Couldnt you just take a steel pipe, measure, cut, and drill...then prime and paint it orange/red and say you paid $100 for it (about the same as SRD)? Or am I being stupid again?


And yes, I am that poor lol

<small>[ May 18, 2004, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: MX3-Freak ]</small>

[MX3-Freak]

So no one wants to tell me I'm right, wrong, ¿stupid? Lol...I would really like to know, because I came up with it as I was typing, and could do that really easily if I reaped any benefits. (and please, don't tell me about weight, because I usually drive alone, and a 2 lb pipe means nothing to me).

[Taras]

I stifness of your orange pipe must be considered.

[MX3-Freak]

OK, here is the stupid question of the century. The two bolts this thing is mounted to are the large ones you can easily see when looking under the car. I have an aluminum bar now, and I want to test it on there, but the bolts I thought seemed to tight to be the ones I'm looking for. Maybe it was just the rust? Oh well, thanks for help.

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Sounds like you're looking in the right place if you are viewing from behind the car looking at the rear crossmember. However, that view should be of 2 - 17mm NUTS threaded onto the bolt-ends. Anyway, they tend to get rusty and have factory torque spec of 50-70 ftlbs which can make em difficult to loosen. I soaked mine overnight with a couple of good sprays of "PB Blaster" which I've found to be superior to anything else used for loosening rusted parts.

BTW, this link is for a GS stock lower tie bar which looks like a nice deal if you're interested after testing yours.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2480103850

Think I pd. around $50 USD for mine from mazdarecycling.com last year.

<small>[ July 03, 2004, 07:18 AM: Message edited by: perhapsadingo8yerbaby ]</small>