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All my parts are almost in, besides for a few odds and ends that i should be clearing up tomorrow. I'm quite anxious to get it up and running, not for the power, but for breaking in the clutch so i can bring her dragging next month on my day off.<p>How, its gonna be me and my mechanic doing the swap...he's never done a engine swap (upgrade) before, and i'm not mechanicaly inclined, so the last thing i need is to encounter unexpected and complicated problems becuase i couldnt wait for the ECU, and not having my car wont be easy, but for longer than expected is not a good thing, especially since i'll be using my parents car while the cars in the shop, and they're already 3 drivers for 2 cars (Mom, Dad and Sis sharring the '91 Safari and '90 626) <p>So should i go for it or not? I'm planning the KLZE ECU with the 1.8VAF, and im using my stock intake and exaust for now, so i should have the EGR (i have no idea where teh EGR is or looks like, but its on the exaust right?)<p>so should i:<p>1) Wait for the ECU, no matter how anxious i am
2) Do the swap, dont hook up the EGR and ignore teh CEL
3) Do the swap, make the k8 ecu happy and hook up the EGR
4) other?<p>[ July 07, 2003: Message edited by: Nd4SpdSe ]</p>

Also<p> <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mazdamaniac:
Just to add to the confusion -
I could NOT get the engine to operate correctly with either the K8 ECU or the KL ECU and the K8 VAF on a KL.
The only VAF that would work correctly was the KL VAF with either ECU.<hr></blockquote><p>BTW, how much would a 2.5VAF go for?<p>[ July 07, 2003: Message edited by: Nd4SpdSe ]</p>

2.5 ECU and VAF $100 PM me.

if you check out a junkyard you can probably get a 2.5 vaf for $50cdn....I dont know if you have emmissions testing but you should find out. Swap the egr if you, plug it if you dont.

hmmm, ill check that out, plus i dont need to worry about e-testing for another 2 years, so its no biggie

heres the thing. The 2.5 ecu and 2.5 vaf run nice together (both american.) and apparantly the 1.8 ecu and 1.8 vaf will run nice together (though I heard rich) and the ze ecu and the 1.8 vaf run nice together.<p>oh, and in niagara on the lake I paid 100 dollars for the 2.5 vaf (it included the whole box and everything) If I cared at all about 25 bucks I could have bargained with him...but didn't. If you are looking for a vaf go to www.car-part.com and do an ontario search. and make sure you choose mx-6 or 626 or probe and the v6 (and 93-96?)<p>[ July 07, 2003: Message edited by: killerpickle ]</p>

say i run with the 1.8vaf/1.8ecu for a bit, and i get the ZE ecu, all i need to do is plug-in the ecu and un-plug the EGR? What would happen if i left the EGR plugged in?

probably get a CEL.
The KLZE doesnt have an EGR, so you could probably loose power. Remember the EGR has to be blocked off by a plate in the back if you remove it.

no you dont even have to plug the egr when you run a ze ecu they dont even recognize them, it just sits there till you plug your aspec ecu back in then it will work.

isnt the 1.8 vaf the same thing as or very similiar to a true ZE vaf? je50 its called i believe, i always thought they were better suited to the ze than a regular de vaf...

Yes

Just a reminderr , if you know the right people and I suspect some of you do. to pass emissions it is easy as using your vin with another car doin the test.

Sure, with swap'ers, dont we need to obide by the rediculus 1983 e-test standards? We should pass thse with flying colors

I just recently had my E-test done and passed with out a problem.
My current setup is the KL-ZE with 1.8L ECU, 2.5L VAF(from probe) and with a fully hooked up EGR.
I originally had the 1.8L VAF installed and I was constantly getting CELs and would run really rich. If I did a long drive I would start loosing performance.After the swap to the 2.5VAF, car runs smooth, no cel codes and actually better gas milage than the original engine.
btw, I paid about $40cdn for the VAF...<p>cheers,