Leaking valve stem seals

[mitmaks]

I have leaking valve stem seals. Car smokes a bit at startup and that would explain some oil vanishing between oil changes. Is there anything I can try besides tearing off heads and replacing seals. Perhaps I should just save up for KLZE.

[kulluminati777]

As long as its semi healthy I would save up for the ZE swap. When i first drove the car with a KLZE i was mad at myself for not doing the swap as soon as I bought the car. I hate the K8. 6 cylinders and it only has 120ish HP on a good day that extra 40/50 horses is what the MX3 should of had from the factory. Then the MX6 should of gotten a turbo KL....

[SuperK]

cheaper and easier to just get a set of heads that have decent seals on them. that way it minimizes your downtime and you can drop in the set of heads.

[MrMazda92]

Honestly, the best bang for your buck will be to swap the entire engine out.

Since you're in WA, you are blessed... Find the nearest Pick-N-Pull, and pull either a Millenia KL(you'll want a new clutch), or a 626 KL + 5 speed(taller gears, chances are the clutch is still usable), and both cars were targeted towards the older generation. They are less likely to have been abused, although the maintenance history may be questionable.

626 DE + 5 spd(complete), or Millenia KL + new clutch, and do the following:
1. Compression test - Side benefit being that you can listen to the bottom end for any odd noises.
Pick one of these two:
2A. Pull the oilpan and check for excessive sludge/buildup in the bottom end, as well as visible damage.
2B. Pull the front(left) Valvecover, and pull a few of the cam caps. That will tell you an awful lot about the oil change history for the vehicle.

That'll set you out the door with a decent KL for ~$200 + clutch price, or KL/Trans for ~$320 + your own time.

[mitmaks]

Junk yards around here don't have good stuff (the cheaper pick n pull) the junk yard that does have newer stuff wants way too much money for engines. I think last time Ive found a kl-de out of mx6 they wanted like $2500 for complete engine. I can buy ze, headers, clutch, timing belt/kit, etc from ebay and still have money left over.

[mitmaks]

Honestly, the best bang for your buck will be to swap the entire engine out.

Since you're in WA, you are blessed... Find the nearest Pick-N-Pull, and pull either a Millenia KL(you'll want a new clutch), or a 626 KL + 5 speed(taller gears, chances are the clutch is still usable), and both cars were targeted towards the older generation. They are less likely to have been abused, although the maintenance history may be questionable.

626 DE + 5 spd(complete), or Millenia KL + new clutch, and do the following:
1. Compression test - Side benefit being that you can listen to the bottom end for any odd noises.
Pick one of these two:
2A. Pull the oilpan and check for excessive sludge/buildup in the bottom end, as well as visible damage.
2B. Pull the front(left) Valvecover, and pull a few of the cam caps. That will tell you an awful lot about the oil change history for the vehicle.

That'll set you out the door with a decent KL for ~$200 + clutch price, or KL/Trans for ~$320 + your own time.

I could find klde from probe/626 but never know if engine will hold good compression or wont have same problem with leaking oil seals, etc.

[SuperK]

Any and every used engine is a gamble if you don't rebuild it. I gambled and lost on my last engine. Such is life.

I can sell you a set of heads for $100. They didn't smoke on startup no matter how long it sat. I would guess the stem seals are good on them.

I can also replace the stem seals for you if you don't have the right tools for very little cost if you're interested. The heads are in phenomenal condition.

[Daninski]

It is well known that Superk would give good heads

[SuperK]

The best. I work it very thoroughly.

[MrMazda92]

I could find klde from probe/626 but never know if engine will hold good compression or wont have same problem with leaking oil seals, etc.

Too bad you aren't down a little farther this way... I would meet you in Portland and pour through the yards, searching for a KL to start with. I can test anything vital with the tools I keep in my road trip bag alone, without breaking out the "real" toolbox.

I tired of having to make multiple trips to borrow tools, so I pieced together a better portable setup, and leave a full set at home for my lengthier projects.

If you do decide to go the junkyard route, I would be down to help you sort it all out!

[mitmaks]

I could find klde from probe/626 but never know if engine will hold good compression or wont have same problem with leaking oil seals, etc.

Too bad you aren't down a little farther this way... I would meet you in Portland and pour through the yards, searching for a KL to start with. I can test anything vital with the tools I keep in my road trip bag alone, without breaking out the "real" toolbox.

I tired of having to make multiple trips to borrow tools, so I pieced together a better portable setup, and leave a full set at home for my lengthier projects.

If you do decide to go the junkyard route, I would be down to help you sort it all out!

Would be nice to find a low mileage KL engine. My k8 has 130K miles on it and that's considered low up here lol

[davmac]

FWIW you could attempt valve seal replacement without removing the heads. You don't have much to lose - the work and money is a subset of replacing the engine. You'll still have to pull intake manifold, timing belt and cam shafts.The rear or right side will be tough, but with the intake manifold removed you might have just enough room to replace the valve seals.
The idea is to hold the valves in place by shoving some rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and then turning the crank shaft to TDC for each cylinder to compress the rope against the valves. Then use a little tool for changing valve seals - either toyotool valvemaster or snap on GA317.