I used the guide according to the Club Protege swap guide an the V6 FAQ - http://mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=69006
I started with my dizzy cap and power tower - So I did not take a step by step photos for this but how I got it mounted in the center was I pulled the graphite electrode in the center (careful it has a spring on the base and you do not want to loose that), matched the bolt size of the power tower stud with a drill bit and drilled straight through the center of the cap. I then filed the head of the bolt in circumference so it would fit into the inside of the cap beneath the graphite electrode. I then notched the base of the power tower to fit the hump on the outside of the cap. I did have to take the drill and a grinding bit to the inside of the power tower to get the the proper distance I needed so it would sit properly. Lastly I cut about 1/8" or the thickness of the bolt head off of the top of the graphite electrode. It cuts like butter. Then I filed it (sand paper will work) so it had the dished effect it had out of the box.
And it was done.
After some RTV and Plastidip on the power tower -
So first off I found that the 94' 3 wire plug on the dizzy has a different color combination, though the colors still represent +, -, and the Tach signal.
Here is the breakdown of the dizzy.
Cap n rotor off
The 3 screws removed and cover pulled off
Then
And finally the coil
This is where it is different than the swap guide minus the 3 plug having the wires in a different order.
This is the photo that is provided in the swap tutorial, and it says to clip or unscrew this band.
As you can tell the 94' does not have that at all.
What I found is that the prong that comes out of the coil needs to be eliminated. similar, but different.
From this -
To this, a hacksaw blade made quick work of it , also you can see I cut off the tower just in the lower right hand side of the pic, filed it and globed on some RTV-
So the female end of it I bent up inside a bit and filled it with RTV to prevent sparking.
And then reassembly, you can kind of see in here that I bent it up in there a little bit.
I then mounted my coil onto the frame rail directly and the HEI is mounted to a plate directly grounded to the frame.
And all together.
A couple pictures of the final assembly.
I still have to tidy op some of the wiring, but I will probably finish that when I rebuild the motor early next year. Note: I used Dielectric on all connections, as well as I shrink wrapped everything and used connectors with shields to help keep the weather out. the HEI that was in there previously was corroded like crazy, and I had cleaned the terminals not 6 months ago.
End result after I figured out my hang up. Huge improvement, the car is sooo much smoother, this mod is completely worth it. I am excited to see how this effects the mileage. It is amazing how the idle has changed, it is nice and smooth all the way up to 7800. Very noticeable difference in driving.
