Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

This forum is for discussion of topics relating to MX-3 lighting such as Headlights, Tail lights, Accessory Lights, Interior Lights, Etc. For example, Rear Euro Altezza Style Tail lights, Headlight units, LED's, HID's, Bulbs, Interior lights, Neons, Strobes, Auxillary Lights/Fogs or anything filament and gas discharge related.
Also anything dealing with the elctrical system.
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fowljesse
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by fowljesse »

:lol: Yeah. I'm not a wirer. I have since bought a soldering gun, shrinktubing, etc... however, I've been running them that way for since this topic was started (about a year). I have never had any problems.
Since it made you angry, I'll edit the first post :)
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
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Ukrman
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by Ukrman »

got my lights last week..... so hopefully soon will hook them up soon. :D

anyone else had problems with their lights getting super hot???
92 Mazda MX3 GS

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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by Newfie_dan »

Yeah I don't want to sh*t on ppl on here for how they do things but I am super anal about wiring and I take great pride in my work so when I see people do it wrong, or at least wrong in my opinion, it pains me. Its just that I forsee to many problems down the road with bad wiring that can be prevented with just a little more work involved. Those blue scotch locks are probably 1 of the worst products on the market for causing wiring problems. I have seen everything from wires that just fall apart from them to wiring thats so badly corroded from them that I had to replace some 10 feet of wiring. Crimp on butt connections are no better really. Few people crimp them correctly so the wires don't hold when crimped and its a great place to get corrosion started. I have done a considerable amount of wiring over the years and I to once used the easy methods like crimp connections and the dreaded scotch locks but I have learned the error of my ways from experience and I solder/shrink tube everything nowadays. The difference is doing it right or just making it work. Wouldn't you rather make the job permanent and worry free for good versus future problems. Maybe its because I lived where corrosion is a problem, I know some places its not as much of an issue but where I came from rust was a major problem as was electrical corrosion. But I digress, I am always around for advice or pointers on wiring so feel free to contact me if you ever need a helping hand with something.
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by fowljesse »

I appreciate your input. It's good for this thread, too. I had no idea that they are so bad. I was careful to make sure that the wires made it between the tines of the metal part of the crimpers. I could tell by looking at them, that they could easily be done wrong (even though I didn't know anything about them).
You may want to make a post in this forum about it, since the external coil write-up says to use them (That's how I got the idea). I think I still have them holding that project together, too, after 2 years.
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
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Newfie_dan
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by Newfie_dan »

Yeah they are not totally terrible on smaller gauge wires, other than the open source for corrosion, but once you get into the higher gauges like 12 gauge and up they can totally cut the wire to shreds breaking strands off and making the wire weaker. I had to do an external coil repair job on a guy's mx-3 in calgary that was messed up with those, he had the main power wiring come out of that type of lock and touch off the chassis making for some pretty exciting sparkage. The car died on him when he was heading down the main fairway there at 100 km/h in heavier traffic. Lost all spark and ended up stranded on the side of the road. He called me up and I had to go find out what happened and saw his wiring job which I fixed up right for him and its been working ever since. He had a slight sputter before I fixed the wiring and once I fixed it the sputter was totally gone. If you look at it in all seriousness wiring is one of those things that you really shouldn't skimp out on as it can cause some pretty serious problems. The guy also had his amp wired in with no fuse at the battery he put the fuse at the amp end when I explained the risks involved he wanted me to fix it right away lol. As a side note pick up some dielectric grease at a parts store and pack those connections with some if you are going to leave the scotch locks on there.
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by mitmaks »

Good thread, however I haven't seen any pictures of light output on the road/wall. I'd like to see light pattern if someone could post some pics.
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Re: Spyder/ carpart4u write-up NOW with HID!

Post by RobMinhas »

Just sticking this so I can find it in the future.
Daninski wrote:This is my MX3. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My MX3 is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I master my life. My MX3, without me, is useless. Without my MX3, I am useless. I must fire up my MX3 true. I must drive straighter than any Honda driver who is trying to own me. I must own him before he owns me.
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