Carizles 92 mx-3 gs

[carizle]

So heres the current state of my car. Its kind of rough and the origional GS wheels were somehow lost when I got the car, but overall I think its pretty straight for having 282,000 miles. Thats right, not KM, but miles! I dont really have a plan for what my project is gonna turn out like, but I'll probably just end up with a de or ze if I get that far. One of the first things I need to do is change the leaking waterpump I'm sure it will be a pita...

[Daninski]

Pretty much rust free and your in luck. Lots of members in your area, just be weary of anyone Fowl or calling themselves Mr. Mileage doesn't really matter if the body and undercarriage are in good shape. The cars red,,,,how unique.

[AaronTietje]

Nice car and have fun with it. Good find on a rust free one.

[carizle]

Pretty much rust free and your in luck. Lots of members in your area, just be weary of anyone Fowl or calling themselves Mr. Mileage doesn't really matter if the body and undercarriage are in good shape. The cars red,,,,how unique.

Yep I love to be different it seems so rare to have a red car I feel lucky to have stumbled across it

[chrome730]

dan are u warning him about jesse?

[fowljesse]

I get back on the site randomly, and THIS is what I get?!
You know how many miles I'm getting now? Infinite, because neither one is going! My ex drove the K8 with no coolant, uintil it died. I then drove it another several thousand miles, before I started having overheating problems. It still runs fine, but has a coolant leak that I don't feel like dealing with. The fast one is still down from the wreck, but I should get it going very soon.
Carizles; I'll keep an eye out for you. If you get honked at by a beat up '05 Pontiac Vibe, don't get mad! My girlfriend doesn't like the way I drive it, because I drive like I'm in an MX-3.

[Savin]

If you get honked at by a beat up '05 Pontiac Vibe, don't get mad! My girlfriend doesn't like the way I drive it, because I drive like I'm in an MX-3.

That is all.

[carizle]

My girl doesn't like that I drive my mx3 like an mx3! especially on the freeway

[carizle]

Couple of ideas on my future wishlist after lookin around...

Proper bodywork repair of coarse
Mazdaspeed or OEM eunos front bumper
Wraparound rear spoiler
Projector headlight
Maybe real HIDs
Some regular OEM GS wheels
1.5-2" drop...advice on good springs and struts maybe?
Maybe paint a different color. I kinda like the look of primer or matte
Shave some emblems...maybe a late model style Mazda logo on the hood
I saw that eunos steering wheel i gotta have that
Leather maybe? But I got kids and a pit bull so maybe not

Not sure how far I'd want to go on engine mods or a swap yet besides maintenance and a few bolt ons since I live in an apartment complex but....

Be nice to clean up what I got-painting the intake and valve covers
Homemade CAI from Home Depot-just a thought, whats an easy way to hook up your vacuum lines and pcv...
Headers and 2" exhaust-not sure on what brand of muffler yet. I want something that will accentuate the unique sound of the K series without being obnoxious.
Upgrade my transmission and LSD-seems like the 1st and 2nd synchros are tired anyway.

As far as a swap goes, everyone loves the ZE but I've heard whispers of an FE3 or FE-DOHC-boosted of coarse, maybe turbo sourced from a 1g DSM?-that can be found in the Kia Sportage...a 4 knocker in a gs chassis I'm not sure how much more complicated all the logistics could be... But thats probably a little off in the distant future anyway.

[carizle]

Finally put my new water pump in pics will be up later. It really wasn't that bad aside from taking me quite awhile. I left the timing belt on- it actually looked pretty fresh. The jack a$$ that changed it must have tried to support the engine by the effing PS tensioner bracket, and the whole bottom part was broken off, making it difficult to re-set the tension. I just jacked it up and tightened the jam nut. Also this dude must have tried jacking it up on the oil pan too after he broke the bracket, as the pan is freaking dented in!

[carizle]

So heres my mini water pump write up. The pics aren't really the greatest for a step by step, but I think it gives you the idea.
It's generally recommended to change your timing belt if you do this, but mine looked pretty fresh so I left it on.

Tools required:
Torque Wrench - In-lbs up to ~125 ft-lbs+(Minimum 10 ft-lbs at least)
Recommended 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" Ratchets
Breaker Bar
Flathead Screwdriver
Pliers of some sort, for taking off upper Radiator Hose
10mm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm regular and deep well sockets + Wrenches
Jack
Jackstands

Engage the parking brake and put the trans in 4th gear. turn the wheels to the right and jack up the car so the wheel is just barely still on the ground. Remove the 10mm splash guard bolts and remove the guard.

Drain radiator. You should probably remove the lower hose too to avoid getting wet when the water pump comes off. I say this from this from my own experience.

Remove upper radiator hose.

Unplug the crank sensor and move wires up and out of the way.

Loosen water pump (10mm) and PS pump (17mm) pulley bolts while theres still tension on the belts. You may still have to brace a screwdriver or prybar against the PS pulley to break it loose.

Loosen the both belt tensioner 17mm jam nuts and relieve the belt tension. Remove the PS/ waterpump tensioner pulley. Remove belts.

Remove the crank pulley with a 21mm and tap it with a dead blow or rubber mallet to loosen it up. Mine pulled right off by hand, but some may need a puller and some PB Blaster.

Remove PS and water pump pulleys.

Remove alternator tensioner pulley and bracket- two 12mm bolts.

Support engine with a jack. I used the AC compressor bracket since my PS tensioner and oil pan were already f***ed up.

Remove two 17mm nuts connecting the mount to the engine. Remove 17mm through bolt/nut connected to the chassis.

Remove engine mount bracket secured by three bolts. I forget what size they were (maybe 12 or 14mm) but one of them was a different size for some reason.

Locate and remove all timing belt cover bolts. Remove covers.

Congratulations now you see the water pump. Remove the five 14mm bolts and carefully slip it out from under the timing belt. Make sure to clean off your mounting surface as good as possible.

Slip new water pump under t-belt being Very carefull to make sure the o-ring gasket stays in place. You may be tempted to hold it on with silicone gasket as an easy way out, but I didn't and I'm pretty sure it was designed to go on without it.

Reinstall everything, flush flush flush, fill with appropriate coolant mixture and check for leaks. I'm good to go no leaks after driving 70+ miles since I changed it.



Notice the broken tensioner bracket


My son thinks helping take off the motor mount.



Everything finally out of the way

I'm kinda thinkin someone pasted on a bunch of RTV when the original started leaking before

[Sleeper6]

Odds are thats why it was leaking, you never want to use RTV on an o-ring. Also I would have changed the belt just b/c anti-freeze had been on it, it can weaken the rubber. Also thats the idea is to change it while it still looks good, after all you were already there

Overall good job though!

[carizle]

Odds are thats why it was leaking, you never want to use RTV on an o-ring

That was my thought exactly

[carizle]

Just polished my stock headlights with toothpaste. yeah thats right, toothpaste!

Before

And after!

[Evo_Spec]

Just polished my stock headlights with toothpaste. yeah thats right, toothpaste!

Before

And after!

haha nice!
i remember fixing a CD once with toothpaste