cooling fan wiring
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- Regular Member
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- Joined: December 3rd, 2005, 11:28 pm
- Location: north lauderdale, Fl
cooling fan wiring
i checked the search and couldnt quite find the answer i was looking for so basically my cooling fan is shot and the dealer quoted me over 500 for the motor alone, and i have this other slim fan but there are only + and - wires. So my question is are the 2 green wires on the cars harness for the relay and how is it bypassed to just run? Should i just connect the 12v and ground it to the car? My car has been running hot so i really need to have something but i dont kno what the adverse effects of running the fan constantly are
Re: cooling fan wiring
The easiest way to connect your new fan is to use the same wires as the old fan as shown here. Look in the E2 section of the manual for more wiring diagrams and other info on cooling system. If you tapped these wires your new fan will turn on and off just as the old fan would have based on coolant temp sensor input to the ECU. If you disconnect the coolant sensor I think the fan will run constantly.
If you want to manually control the fan from a switch inside the car you'll need a switch and relay. The switch is inside the car and connected to ACC power (like you'll find at the stereo) on one side and to the relay on the other side. The relay could be mounted inside the car or the engine compartment. At the relay pin 85 is connected to the switch and pin 86 is connected to battery ground. Pin 87 on the relay is connected to power lead of the fan. Pin 30 on the relay is connected to the battery with a fuse between. This means you could run a wire with inline fuse from the batter positive terminal (if relay is in engine compartment) or you could add a circuit to your fuse panel with something like add a circuit fuse holder to get battery power for the fan. You can get the parts and some advice at an auto parts store or radio shack. Use at least 14 gauge wire and there really shouldn't be any adverse effect of running the fan constantly. Good luck on your project.
If you want to manually control the fan from a switch inside the car you'll need a switch and relay. The switch is inside the car and connected to ACC power (like you'll find at the stereo) on one side and to the relay on the other side. The relay could be mounted inside the car or the engine compartment. At the relay pin 85 is connected to the switch and pin 86 is connected to battery ground. Pin 87 on the relay is connected to power lead of the fan. Pin 30 on the relay is connected to the battery with a fuse between. This means you could run a wire with inline fuse from the batter positive terminal (if relay is in engine compartment) or you could add a circuit to your fuse panel with something like add a circuit fuse holder to get battery power for the fan. You can get the parts and some advice at an auto parts store or radio shack. Use at least 14 gauge wire and there really shouldn't be any adverse effect of running the fan constantly. Good luck on your project.

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- john1983
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Re: cooling fan wiring
i actually had a problem with my fans on my car they work fine but were not coming on when the engine heated up. so i ran a wire to both fans positve from where i tapped in to a cicuit inside so that they turn on with the ignition, only down fall i have seen so far with doing this is i also did this in a previous car and seems the oem fans are designed to turn on and off as needed they actually wear out faster and burn up from constant spinning, the fan blade actually melted off the shaft in my old car but as for an after market slim fan you may not have to worry about that (but that was my experience). i woud actually suggest putting a swich in so you can turn your fans on and off atleast then your engine still heats up in colder weather seems it takes longer with fans constantly running, good luck with your cooling problem
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- Ryan
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Re: cooling fan wiring
Yeah, john, thats a sketchy idea. If you have to hard wire them, definitely switch them. Rad fans should come on rarely.... I know mine almost never come on, because when I'm working under the hood with it running, when they come on, I get lost in a cloud of dust...
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Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
Feedback
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- Regular Member
- Posts: 84
- Joined: December 3rd, 2005, 11:28 pm
- Location: north lauderdale, Fl
Re: cooling fan wiring
yea im in florida so i definately needed it. it looks like i have a slow coolant leak as well, it looks like one of the hoses underneath the throttle area, one of the seemingly very hard to get to so i havent quite pin pointed it yet.. but the fan does work nicely, thanks fellas..
ive been floating around here for quite a few years now, but im finally getting back to work on the car.
ive been floating around here for quite a few years now, but im finally getting back to work on the car.