Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

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onlytrueromeo
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Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by onlytrueromeo »

I've finally been able to run the KLZE for more than 30-60 seconds (no exhaust was very loud so I wouldn't let it run) and now that I was able to, I had it idling for a good 5 minutes or so, and it spit up coolant, the CEL came on, so I quickly shut it off.

Now the block itself feels quite hot for only running for a few mins. It also won't stay running. It will start just fine, but I have to play with the throttle to get it to do that, whereas previously it idled on its own. I also noticed that if I leave the key in the on position (while the engine is NOT running) I hear the little motor for the IAC going continuously.

Getting a bunch of codes, mostly coolant related, which weren't there before it "burped" or whatever. I did have the caps on when it gushed coolant out, which I guess I should have had off. Coolant is not warm at all by the resivoir, but could be warmer by the filler cap. The hoses don't feel warm though. It could be the thermostat, but would that cause all the problems?

The engine is also ticking which could be the HLA's (I'm hoping)

What should I do? I need help!
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onlytrueromeo
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by onlytrueromeo »

bump,

Could it be the waterpump or thermostat? ...I don't really want to replace the water pump right now...
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by marcdh »

I also noticed that if I leave the key in the on position (while the engine is NOT running) I hear the little motor for the IAC going continuously.
Mine does that on occasion too! Sorry I've no real help for you but, I have no error codes other than EGR, which is understandable as it's gone. Thermostat is quite vital I would have thought. Ticking probably HLAs, they'll probably come around after a while. Otherwise go for the hardcore engine flush - flush, cheap oil with flush, then decent oil.
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Nd4SpdSe
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

Should of replace the waterpump beforehand :shrug:

If it's spitting out, it's boiling somewhere, but you say the lines aren't hot. That would only make sence if it's the feed lines and not the return. Could be thermostat if it's not opening up. If your rad fan turning on at all? The caps need to stay on, otherwise i'd be overflowing from the pressure of the system regardless of it's temperature
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
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marcdh
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by marcdh »

Nd4SpdSe wrote:Should of replace the waterpump beforehand :shrug:
:lol: I didn't wanna say that...

Surely if the waterpump had failed, the belt would be slipping and the pulley wouldn't turn? They're a simple part, I would have thought they'd either seize completely, leak, or work.
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt
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onlytrueromeo
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by onlytrueromeo »

Ya, I wanted to replace the waterpump and t-belt, but I was running low on money and most of all time. I figure theres 30k on the engine, next summer I can replace that and do the things I didn't have time for this year.


I tried running it again, and it still won't stay running without my playin w/ the gas. I'm getting no codes. The water is definitly hot by the filler cap area. Belts seem to turn fine, only squeal when I leaked coolant on them, and that was only for a second or 2.

SO I don't believe water is circulating at all. Is there any way I can disable the thermostat, and have the water pump continuously? (to check if that's the problem)

But why would that affect the idle? I can't keep the damn thing running, even after it cooler for more than an hour.

Fan's come on, and I can make it stay on. (by disconnecting the plug)
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Daninski
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Daninski »

OK the water pump is continuous, runs off the PS belt. Burp could of been because you had air pockets so steam was created. You did add enough coolant? With caps on and heater on hot, squeeze the lower coolant line and you'll here the coolant being forced throught the system re check coolant level at upper cap. The idle could be your TPS but disconnect the neg from the battery, depress the brake 15 sec to clear the ECU and try starting it again. The idle (top of throttle body) can be initially set at between three to 3.5 turns while in Diag mode (Ten and Grd) to acheive 650 rpm. Thats all I have so far.
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Nd4SpdSe
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

Not really, that only if it seized. I've seen the waterpump impeller basically gone on the inside. It'll still turn but it's not going to move much water.

Remember too, the IAC measures cooland temperature and adjusts the idle accordingly. If your having cooland issues, you may need to raise your idle set screw (in diagnostic mode) until you get that sorted out. You should get codes unless maybe a coolant sensor was bad, if that does throw a code.

The thermostat doesn't stop the waterpump from turning, that's a mechanical pump that's always running with the motor. The thermostat opens up to allow coolant to flow the the rad. If that was saying close, it would explain some cooland and lines staying cool.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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onlytrueromeo
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by onlytrueromeo »

hehe yup, already done all that. I was very careful with this whole process, as I've never done it before. my idle screw is a bit hard to reach as my TB is upside down. It idled fine though before I had the exhaust on and before it "burped" or whatever.

Plenty of coolant, I can make it gush out from either cap my squeezing and there are no air bubbles.
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by marcdh »

As long as the crank pulley is spinning the belt the waterpump is running. I'm not sure if it's possible to get wrong but have you got your coolant lines all going to the right places? Overflow tank changing levels at all? Fair point nd4spdse the impeller could shear off internally.
Last edited by marcdh on August 10th, 2008, 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Daninski
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Daninski »

Stupid question but did a mouse build a nest in your exhaust or is ther a blockage. We use to put potatoes in the neighbors exhaust so he couldn't start his car (when we were kids). lol
EDIT Hey Nd4SpudsSe, stop reiterating my advise lol
2004 Subaru WRX Silver, stage 2, minty interior.
2002 Subaru WRX Blue, SOLD (best E test numbers I've ever seen)
94 MX-6. Sold
92 GS KLZE 5 Speed
96 GS 5 speed, KLZE, Sold
95 GS Minty Shape Sold
92 GS Sold
92 GS Parts Car scrapped.
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marcdh
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by marcdh »

Which reminds me, my ZE idled terribly with open headers. Night and day difference when I got the full exhaust on.
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt
Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni
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Daninski
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Daninski »

OK another stupid question. Is the belt on right and is it actually turning the WP?
2004 Subaru WRX Silver, stage 2, minty interior.
2002 Subaru WRX Blue, SOLD (best E test numbers I've ever seen)
94 MX-6. Sold
92 GS KLZE 5 Speed
96 GS 5 speed, KLZE, Sold
95 GS Minty Shape Sold
92 GS Sold
92 GS Parts Car scrapped.
Feedback viewtopic.php?f=37&t=66348" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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marcdh
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by marcdh »

indeed! too much tension and it sticks, too little and it wont spin it very well.
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt
Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni
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Stablo87
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Re: Problems, Problems, Problems :( Help Please

Post by Stablo87 »

This maybe very inneficient but have you thought of running the car without the thermostat for a while? at least just to see if it is flowing.

When you first start the car you should be able to leave the cap off and see the water flow.
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