Hey chew*

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 24th, 2007, 11:09 am

SuperK wrote:by the way, how much you pay for your amp?

After shipping, $149.89 USD.

I'm going to rip out my interior and clean the heck out of everything since my poor car has been sitting for over year while I've been deployed. Then I will try to soundproof it a little and run the wires properly. It's going to be sweeeeeet when I am done.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 24th, 2007, 3:45 pm

SuperK wrote:don't say darn, those are darned nice amps!
Plus, Polk makes their amp for their Polk speakers. I doubt that you'll not be able to bring out the speakers full potential with your setup.

by the way, how much you pay for your amp?

and chew, just thought to let you know, I want your TOUCH button on your panel
You have a bottle of oil on your floor
Don't work on your car, work on my project!

Also, please note that it MUST be 60 degrees or warmer in your work area, or this install will potentially fail, due to discouragement, shaking, and the inability to stop swearing.

What the hell it that touch button anyway. I touched it nothing happened. I was half heartedly afraid it was an ejecto seat button

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 24th, 2007, 4:26 pm

It's a ground. There's a wire that's connected to it that is designed to ground you out.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 24th, 2007, 9:41 pm

hmm there was no ground wire attached to either one when i pulled the door panels off.............. I think the engineers said "Hey moe watch this, I'm gonna make over 10,000 mx-3 customers look stupid by putting a piece of plastic on the door panels with the word touch stamped in it and ill bet everyone touches it that owns one hahahahaha"

And Super K just give me a little time, I'm not very punctual but the results are always worth waiting for. Got a lot going on with fighting with the insurance company, I finally got a rental today after fighting with them for 3 hours on the phone, I needed to park my mx-3 before something bad happens like a headgasket for other reasons than an oil leak, overheating with a bad radiator is a concern.

Which reminds me does anyone know where i can get an all metal radiator instead of that bi metal plastic/aluminum junk. I got one for my 01 sonata but forgot the name of the company i ordered it from.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » February 24th, 2007, 11:11 pm

I just redid all the stock wiring in the fronts today.

Talk about a bizzznatch of a job! Feeding them through the rubber hosing was done with much pain and suffering.
Also, I had to drill holes in the plastic coupling to feed them from the door to the interior

I was clueless as to what to do with the crossovers... they're kinda large

That was my resolve. Pop out the little plastic caps and mount them in the already existant holes. There's a metal mount point with a threaded hole there as well, makes mounting painless.

Looks nice and stays out of the way. I'm almost done with all the wiring, I'll show you pics when I am finished.

Definitely soundproof your doors, though! It'll help a tons amount.

Even if that was improper english. bad grammer and spelled. Caps lock sold seperately.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » February 24th, 2007, 11:17 pm

chew* wrote:hmm there was no ground wire attached to either one when i pulled the door panels off..............

And Super K just give me a little time...

Which reminds me does anyone know where i can get an all metal radiator instead of that bi metal plastic/aluminum junk. I got one for my 01 sonata but forgot the name of the company i ordered it from.

I do believe the button is made out of a certain mixed compound that grounds you enough you don't get SHOCKED to hell while stepping out.
not much is needed to discharge, but let me tell ya, my little car gives me a KICK when I try stepping out without grabbing the frame first. (I have no touch button)

Here at fedex, we get tons of radiators coming through for local shops from 1800radiator.com

I say if there's something you're looking for, it'd be there.

Just be careful, haha, because the only time I see them going through my hands are when I'm writing up a damaged package report

Oh, and I understand you're a bit tied up with your current situation. No hurries, I've got a temp box that works just fine for now.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 24th, 2007, 11:27 pm

heh the crossover mounting looks good. I just velcroed mine to the inside of the doors, however mine are manual roll downs, I have no clue what kind of interference is introduced by having power windows.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 25th, 2007, 1:18 am

I put my current cross overs inside the doors, too. They're not as big as the Polk ones appear to be, though.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 25th, 2007, 10:49 am

Drool worthy

and this isn't including the stuff thats installed in some of the cars or in the garage. I just sold one kicker amp last night, an alpine deck and my 2 12" memphis box that i posted up a while ago got sold today.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » March 2nd, 2007, 11:09 am

pshh, drool worthy? how bout this for droolworthy!

I know I know, don't say too much at the complete awesomeness of a burned out craptastic 15 dollar sub.

Oh, thanks for the advice on the tweeter placement, chew. I went ahead and copied your idea, as it was the best one I could think of... although, I really wanted to replace my outermost vents and put the tweeters in there

chew* · Post by chew* » March 2nd, 2007, 10:34 pm

The placement i chose offers the best imaging in this particular car. I found front firing tended to be to offensive with this particular component set. I edited your pic a little here's the edited "no crooked neck version"
I like what you did with the grills. I'm gonna work on my idea in the next week or 2 with the mdf panels and show you some other options.

Is that a brand " originals " < never heard of it lol. I only posted those pics mainly for people to actually see that I am for real. So many bs'ers in forums these days.................

Resized to save filespace, kinda gave it a squashed effect.

chew* · Post by chew* » March 2nd, 2007, 11:00 pm

My stock 1 car which the class is limted to 3 8" or 2 10" or 1 12" sub. Since we all know from my preaching a single sub sounds best and is the most efficient I chose this as i am having trouble breaking 142db for some reason.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v ... 48,00.html

The website pics don't do it justice. when i get it in my hands I will take some high res pics.

Retail cost is $1000 luckily for me i have some connections for pioneer premier products through a local stereo shop ( free advertisement ). I win at comps, I display they're store name on the car, I get discounts

. On this particular sub my cost was roughly $400.

Now i just need to make up my mind on what sub to use in my true SPL car. It will basically be a wall. I was thinking 2 15" or 18" subs. I was thinking of using kicker solo's however no one in the top 25 ranking uses solo X subs which leads me to wonder as to why not.

BTW see the box with the kx 1200.1 on it? that has 2 kx 1200.1 amps in it. Each of those amps will run for short bursts ( burps ) @ 1/4 ohm. These are not factory modded either. 7 out of 10 kx 1200.1's are capable of this. Class D watt theory nets these amps at about 3000-4000 watts if you can supply them enough amperage and 12volt steady at that load.

Most likely the best amp kicker ever made considering 1 amp puts you in a 300 watt class. If anyone has a chance to buy one or knows someone selling one and you don't intend to buy it please LMK about it.