Hey chew*
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Hey chew*
I'm going to drive to your place sometime so you can design me a killer sound setup!
No more MX-3.
Heh, If its an Mx-3 I would be more than happy to help. The car is easy as cake to get sound out of.
Now my 01 hyundai sonata on the other hand is starting to aggravate me. I ran it through at the end of the year in stock 1 class which consists of the car has to be stock no modifications to interior only 1 battery upgrade etc etc. I hit 141.9 with a single 300 watt pioneer 12 in a sound quality box,and a 600 watt kicker amp, 4 gauge wire, no caps or batteries. It took second place.
I upgraded to a 1000 watt pioneer "SPL" sub, tuned a box for the resonant frequency of the car, upgraded the power to 1/0 gauge, added a battery, added another 600 watt amp and now it hits a whopping 142db....Oddly enough it sounds alot louder than before unless my Db meter is damaged, although i doubt it.
I think it's time to can the pioneer sub and just build a 5 cubic ft box tuned to 49hz for my Memphis Mojo 12. I wanted to stay small and discrete but apparently it's not gonna happen.
I have other projects lined up to including a box for one of the guys here, just need to get this done as I've quite a bit of money invested now and nothing to show for it. Plus the sooner it's done the sooner I can get to my new project I like to call FORD FESTIVA on CRACK.
Can you imagine 2 SOLO x 18" subs in a wall with a port so Large you can actually climb into the box all crammed into a tiny little ford festiva with 4 2500 watt kicker amps and enough batteries to drive to ohio and back with no alternator.
Now my 01 hyundai sonata on the other hand is starting to aggravate me. I ran it through at the end of the year in stock 1 class which consists of the car has to be stock no modifications to interior only 1 battery upgrade etc etc. I hit 141.9 with a single 300 watt pioneer 12 in a sound quality box,and a 600 watt kicker amp, 4 gauge wire, no caps or batteries. It took second place.
I upgraded to a 1000 watt pioneer "SPL" sub, tuned a box for the resonant frequency of the car, upgraded the power to 1/0 gauge, added a battery, added another 600 watt amp and now it hits a whopping 142db....Oddly enough it sounds alot louder than before unless my Db meter is damaged, although i doubt it.
I think it's time to can the pioneer sub and just build a 5 cubic ft box tuned to 49hz for my Memphis Mojo 12. I wanted to stay small and discrete but apparently it's not gonna happen.
I have other projects lined up to including a box for one of the guys here, just need to get this done as I've quite a bit of money invested now and nothing to show for it. Plus the sooner it's done the sooner I can get to my new project I like to call FORD FESTIVA on CRACK.
Can you imagine 2 SOLO x 18" subs in a wall with a port so Large you can actually climb into the box all crammed into a tiny little ford festiva with 4 2500 watt kicker amps and enough batteries to drive to ohio and back with no alternator.
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Yes, it's for my MX-3. Basically, I want to maximize trunk space, so I don't want a huge box in my trunk. I just want one 10 inch sub on either side tucked into the sides of the wheel wells in the far back, angled toward the center of the trunk and aiming forward instead of backwards if you catch what I am saying.
No more MX-3.
It will sound terrible that way for 3 reasons. A) firing two subs at each other causes cancelation. B) the mx-3 sounds best with a small ported box as tight to the rear seat as possible with the ports and speakers fired rear with the cargo area completely empty including the spare tire removed.
C)Even if the speakers are not fired at each other but off angle and not on the same wavelength it will still cause a form of cancelation.
When i say cancelation What it means is you will hear bass but the bass will have no authority. Etc you will hear sound waves but not feel the music. The whole point of having bass is so the music has life to it and you can feel it.
Anyway that said a box for 2 10's can still take up minimal space in the hatch area although personally I would opt for one single 12" as a single sub is alot cleaner and a 12" has better low frequency response without being sloppy like a 15".
C)Even if the speakers are not fired at each other but off angle and not on the same wavelength it will still cause a form of cancelation.
When i say cancelation What it means is you will hear bass but the bass will have no authority. Etc you will hear sound waves but not feel the music. The whole point of having bass is so the music has life to it and you can feel it.
Anyway that said a box for 2 10's can still take up minimal space in the hatch area although personally I would opt for one single 12" as a single sub is alot cleaner and a 12" has better low frequency response without being sloppy like a 15".
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Okay, you know what you are talking about, not me! So, you recommend 1 single 12" sub? Which one, and what amplifier to go with it? If the box is small enough, I wouldn't mind it so much. Right now, I have a box with 2 10" subs that takes up most of my space, and it annoys me... Should I just get an "off the shelf" box, or find someone to make one for me? If I toss some cash at you, can you make one? 
No more MX-3.
Right at the moment I'm playing with a pioneer premier sub that has very small space requirements, however it's considered an spl speaker. It actually sounds quite clean tuned for sound quality however I am partial to JL w3's and w6's for sound quality installs. The pioneer premier would be more for output than sound quality.
Both JL subs are great, I suggest both for a price point reason. If people are on a budget use the W3 as it costs less and requires less power which means you need not spend alot on an amp.
Both JL subs are great, I suggest both for a price point reason. If people are on a budget use the W3 as it costs less and requires less power which means you need not spend alot on an amp.
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
What if I want quality of sound? I don't need bass that blows out the hatch window! I want high quality bass that would go well with a good set of front door speakers. Right now I have Alpine Type S 6 1/2s, but if you know of something better that FITS the front door, by all means, let me know!
No more MX-3.
Good luck with high quality fronts that fit 
that big magnet is there for a reason! My Polk MOMO 6.5's i'm installing at the moment do NOT fit without modding. Big spacer needed, can't use speaker grilles.
Big magnet = testimony of it's capabilities (in most cases)
in two instances I've had low profile speakers that I've been extremely disappointed in. One was a set of pioneer low profiles... which were aweful, then were some kenwood dualmags (two .85oz mags) 6.5's that came in my mx3 when I got it. bleh.
chew had a good recommenation of making some adapters with some MDF board, but I'll just mod my speaker grill to fit nice
that big magnet is there for a reason! My Polk MOMO 6.5's i'm installing at the moment do NOT fit without modding. Big spacer needed, can't use speaker grilles.
Big magnet = testimony of it's capabilities (in most cases)
in two instances I've had low profile speakers that I've been extremely disappointed in. One was a set of pioneer low profiles... which were aweful, then were some kenwood dualmags (two .85oz mags) 6.5's that came in my mx3 when I got it. bleh.
chew had a good recommenation of making some adapters with some MDF board, but I'll just mod my speaker grill to fit nice
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Super K the windows will roll down almost all the way with them installed. I chose to wing it and roll my window down all but 2 inches from full down. WIth the sound those polk MOMO's give i can live with that. 
that and the fact that it's a competition car and i rarely drive it. I am actually quite fond of it now. Thinking of grabbing another as a daily driver.
As far as components and subs go you can't beat the polk momo 6 1/2"/ single JL 12" w3 combo in this car. Amps IMHO are preference as long as they aren't sparkomatic or other equivalent brand.
I buy my amps for longevity and for the ability to exceed rated spec. Kicker however has it's flaws to. They are not efficient on power consumption and require double what most amps need in the same power range. This costs me alot in batteries, at $300 a piece and then costs me in weight of the additional batteries, for instance my mx-3 needs a new clutch already.
that and the fact that it's a competition car and i rarely drive it. I am actually quite fond of it now. Thinking of grabbing another as a daily driver.As far as components and subs go you can't beat the polk momo 6 1/2"/ single JL 12" w3 combo in this car. Amps IMHO are preference as long as they aren't sparkomatic or other equivalent brand.
I buy my amps for longevity and for the ability to exceed rated spec. Kicker however has it's flaws to. They are not efficient on power consumption and require double what most amps need in the same power range. This costs me alot in batteries, at $300 a piece and then costs me in weight of the additional batteries, for instance my mx-3 needs a new clutch already.
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
mmc6500 my friend, that's where it's at.
I installed (only one so far) with my window down, and even with the large adapter plate they supply, it'd still rub my window
but I made it work, and it looks good
just can't wait (untill it's warm enough to work on it again) to install and wire it all up and listen to it!
oh, I bought my mmc6500's for 170 brand new.
and my polk momo 300.2 amps for 150/each.
I installed (only one so far) with my window down, and even with the large adapter plate they supply, it'd still rub my window
but I made it work, and it looks good
just can't wait (untill it's warm enough to work on it again) to install and wire it all up and listen to it!
oh, I bought my mmc6500's for 170 brand new.
and my polk momo 300.2 amps for 150/each.
-
ScooterBovine
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 502
- Joined: May 9th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Okay, you "made" it work. How? I assume you no longer use the stock speaker grill. Right now, mine aren't on, either, so that's no big deal to me. I wonder if someone can make a panel that fits a 6.5" speaker that snaps in the place of the old speaker grill? I'd buy that for sure, especially if it came in blue. It would be a sweet look for the interior, I think!
No more MX-3.
Yah it quite simple. I explained to super K that a piece of MDF cut in the shape of the speaker grill with a cutout for the 6.5 POLK momo and sprayed with 3m's fleckstone paint ( which they make a bluish green color for that matches the color scheme well ) would look sweet and should solve the clearance of the window issue. It would also allow use of the MOMO grill which look's good.
The tweeters must be mounted up high. The best thing to do is mount the mids then and hook up the tweeters. Play some music and move the tweeters around up high on the door panel close to the dash until you find the "sweet spot" You'll know when you find it. I was supposed to take pics of mine but its been "Brick" out lately and I hate the cold.
The tweeters must be mounted up high. The best thing to do is mount the mids then and hook up the tweeters. Play some music and move the tweeters around up high on the door panel close to the dash until you find the "sweet spot" You'll know when you find it. I was supposed to take pics of mine but its been "Brick" out lately and I hate the cold.