What the heck? Need experts advise
- den
- Regular Member
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- Joined: September 27th, 2005, 9:35 pm
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
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What the heck? Need experts advise
I just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump and thermostat.
Here's the problem....
I set the timing marks before removing the old timing belt. Then after installing the new one the marks were still aligned. Then just to make sure, I rotate it a few more times and the marks were still fine. So, to make sure if everything was ok, I started the car without the accessory belts and It worked FINE (everything ran smooth).
Then after that I replaced my thermostat. I had to unplug the spark plug wires on the bottom part of the disty and other harness around it coz the spot was too tight.
Then I put everything back together.(timing belt cover, acc belts, crank pulley)
I was so excited to run the car coz I haven't used it for a while. Then all of a sudden... WHAT THE HECK.. The car was running rough, the engine was vibrating and making a noise like "Kisssssk" like every 4 seconds.
I spent days working on it and I am really frustrated right now.
Here are the things the things that I might messed up with:
*timing
*spark plug order(lower half of disty)
*injector, disty, TPS harnesses
*crank sensor
*maybe small vac hoses around thermostat
Please help me. Dont know what to do anymore. I am just so upset. Please my expert fellow mx3ers I need your knowledge. Thank you![/list]
Here's the problem....
I set the timing marks before removing the old timing belt. Then after installing the new one the marks were still aligned. Then just to make sure, I rotate it a few more times and the marks were still fine. So, to make sure if everything was ok, I started the car without the accessory belts and It worked FINE (everything ran smooth).
Then after that I replaced my thermostat. I had to unplug the spark plug wires on the bottom part of the disty and other harness around it coz the spot was too tight.
Then I put everything back together.(timing belt cover, acc belts, crank pulley)
I was so excited to run the car coz I haven't used it for a while. Then all of a sudden... WHAT THE HECK.. The car was running rough, the engine was vibrating and making a noise like "Kisssssk" like every 4 seconds.
I spent days working on it and I am really frustrated right now.
Here are the things the things that I might messed up with:
*timing
*spark plug order(lower half of disty)
*injector, disty, TPS harnesses
*crank sensor
*maybe small vac hoses around thermostat
Please help me. Dont know what to do anymore. I am just so upset. Please my expert fellow mx3ers I need your knowledge. Thank you![/list]
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
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I thik its the firing order. Just remember, cylinder number 6 is always next to disty on k series engines, 5 is opposite of that, 4 is under 6 and so on.
I actually did that mistake when i did my tune up lol

-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
- 1992blazeredgs
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- Location: Birmingham, AL
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- Tunes67
- Supporting Member
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This "Kisssssk" noise.. does it sound like air being released.. like if you hit a tire air valve for a moment? If so.. double check how tight you have your spark plugs. Could be that one of them isnt fully tightened down and compression is escaping past it. Just a thought.
Tunes67
Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" 
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL

"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
- den
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- Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Yes ksssk sound is like an air being released. Yes I checked the timing marks after pulling the tensioner pin. It was a little off(just a litlle little bit) of the crank mark. I have read from this forum that it is ok so I didnt bother aligning it any more. Like I said it was ok at the initial test.
It's a little bit longer to start the car and the engine seems to be weak... very weak. By the way I have an after market muffler and it really sounds different. Its like the exhaust is not continous. (It like a steam train but ofcourse not that bad).
I appreciate all your input guys. Thank you very much!
It's a little bit longer to start the car and the engine seems to be weak... very weak. By the way I have an after market muffler and it really sounds different. Its like the exhaust is not continous. (It like a steam train but ofcourse not that bad).
I appreciate all your input guys. Thank you very much!
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
- PATDIESEL
- Senior Member
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I would say the timing is not the issue since it ran fine just after the belt was replaced. Turning it a few times to make sure the marks stay lined-up is a good idea and I'm glad you did that b/c that is what makes me think the timing is ok.
Then after you cranked the car to make sure the timing was correct you replaced the thermostat. Another good idea to check one thing and then start the next because it tells us and you that the first thing (the timing is ok) thus the second work that was done is where the issue lies.
So you took the disty wires off so that you could get to the thermostat alittle easier. You also removed a plug or two to get them out of the way. So first you need to read the disty and see the plug order on it. Then make sure the plug wires are going to the proper cylinder, 1-3-5 on the rear bank from left to right, and 2-4-6 on the front bank from left to right are the cylinder numbers. IF that is ok, then check that all the plugs you disconnected are reconnected and clipped into place. If those are also fine then you need to tell us what else you disconnected so that we can tell you how it goes together and you can make sure your connections are the same.
You said something about vaccum hoses and crank sensor, why? Did you mess with them? The crank sensor should be fine since there is no reason to take it off the car, but make sure the wire is not pinched and the connector is secure at its connection with the harness near the filler neck.
You would have to give more info on what vaccum you disconnected b/c there are a good many vaccum hoses and tring to tell you how to route each one would be a post all its own.
As for the spark plugs being loose I wouldn't think that is an issue. You didn't say anything about taking the plugs out... Also, if you do choose to check that they are tight enough you need to use a torque wrench to make sure they are tight. Tightening with a regular wrench can easily strip the head threads for the plug and then you are in serious trouble. I don't mean to be mean, but you obviously need some more practice with the engine before you can tighten a spark plug by feel of the wrench
I just don't want you to end up with a VERY costly repair.
Also, you should be getting some check engine lights by now for the rough running. Check them and tell us what you get.
Then after you cranked the car to make sure the timing was correct you replaced the thermostat. Another good idea to check one thing and then start the next because it tells us and you that the first thing (the timing is ok) thus the second work that was done is where the issue lies.
So you took the disty wires off so that you could get to the thermostat alittle easier. You also removed a plug or two to get them out of the way. So first you need to read the disty and see the plug order on it. Then make sure the plug wires are going to the proper cylinder, 1-3-5 on the rear bank from left to right, and 2-4-6 on the front bank from left to right are the cylinder numbers. IF that is ok, then check that all the plugs you disconnected are reconnected and clipped into place. If those are also fine then you need to tell us what else you disconnected so that we can tell you how it goes together and you can make sure your connections are the same.
You said something about vaccum hoses and crank sensor, why? Did you mess with them? The crank sensor should be fine since there is no reason to take it off the car, but make sure the wire is not pinched and the connector is secure at its connection with the harness near the filler neck.
You would have to give more info on what vaccum you disconnected b/c there are a good many vaccum hoses and tring to tell you how to route each one would be a post all its own.
As for the spark plugs being loose I wouldn't think that is an issue. You didn't say anything about taking the plugs out... Also, if you do choose to check that they are tight enough you need to use a torque wrench to make sure they are tight. Tightening with a regular wrench can easily strip the head threads for the plug and then you are in serious trouble. I don't mean to be mean, but you obviously need some more practice with the engine before you can tighten a spark plug by feel of the wrench

Also, you should be getting some check engine lights by now for the rough running. Check them and tell us what you get.

ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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- den
- Regular Member
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- Joined: September 27th, 2005, 9:35 pm
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Wow patdiesel thanks for that. You put a lot of effort to that reply and I really apprecieate it. I will check everything tomorrow. BTW if the timing was off, should the check engine light come off? Coz the CEL isn't on. Maybe I didn't mess up the crank sensor. The vac plugs I was taking about is the one arround the thermostat. I may have pulled on of those While I was working at theremo but I'll check it tomorrow.
NOTE:
By the way I smell a litlle bit of fuel when the car was running.
NOTE:
By the way I smell a litlle bit of fuel when the car was running.
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
- den
- Regular Member
- Posts: 197
- Joined: September 27th, 2005, 9:35 pm
- Location: Toronto, Ontario
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YEEEESSSS!!!! Everything is okay now. It was just the order of the spark plug wires. I plugged 1 to 2 and 2 to 1. LOL
(I'm embarassed)
I was so tired, upset and frustrated thats why I just ran upstairs to my room and ask you guys what the problem was.hehe! I never thought the problem was that simple. Anyway I am proud that I changed the water pump, timing belt, pulleys and thermostat of my baby all by myself, oh and ofcourse with the help of this website and you members.
Thanks for all your help guys!
P.S. My engine is more quiet than ever(since I got it last yer). I didnt know replcaing the idling pulleys and tensioner pulley would have that much effect.


I was so tired, upset and frustrated thats why I just ran upstairs to my room and ask you guys what the problem was.hehe! I never thought the problem was that simple. Anyway I am proud that I changed the water pump, timing belt, pulleys and thermostat of my baby all by myself, oh and ofcourse with the help of this website and you members.
Thanks for all your help guys!
P.S. My engine is more quiet than ever(since I got it last yer). I didnt know replcaing the idling pulleys and tensioner pulley would have that much effect.
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter