Body work time!!

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Bochek
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Body work time!!

Post by Bochek »

Took the front window out, sandblasted, rust eating paint, sanded, bondo, sand, primer, sand, bondo and thats where i am now...

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still to come is sand, primer, sand with 2000 grit, paint, buff & wax, oh and put the new window in.


This is where im working



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Bochek
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mitmaks
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Post by mitmaks »

what are you trying to accomplish?
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

You haven't done any masking. Are you painting the whole car?

Also, remember that our car is a blase/clear coat type paint so you have to clear coat the car after you spray the color.

You also need to mask about a 5' section that you are painting. If you are painting the whole car you need to mask the whole car. You haven't spent much time on the prep work so I doubt your paint job will look all that good, but I hope I'm wrong. Prep is the peeling back of seals and taping under and around them to hold them back so you can paint underneath them a tad, making sure you have a clena dry area to paint in ( an open canopy doesn't count, and don't tell me money cause a PVC box covered in plastic will work better than what you have.

PS, I'm not knocking your work, but giving suggestions for next time.

Good luck and I hope it comes out well.
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ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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den
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Post by den »

This is not the best time of the year to paint. The higher the temperature the better. Good luck!
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Bochek
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Post by Bochek »

den wrote:This is not the best time of the year to paint. The higher the temperature the better. Good luck!
Tell me about it, no choice tho, the tent is heated by some electric heaters, its about 15C in there.

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den
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Post by den »

You should only paint when there is no rain or snow for atleast 2 days before and after you paint. Especially if you are doing it inside a tent. I believe the good temp to paint is atleast 27C.

The metal(to be painted) should be 100% dry so that means it should be done in high temp and dry environment. The paint should also dry as soon as it contacts the metal(for smooth texture and proper bonding) so that also means high temp.

I never really done any body painting but my uncle's friend who was a very good painter told me those stuff when he was still alive.

Your tent may work just try to add more heater inside the tent to raise the temp and only do it when there is no rain, no snow, warm temp, and no high winds for a week. Since you are doing it outdoors, don't do it early in the morning and after the sun sets coz those are the times when things get moisty. I'd say between 10:00-3:30 in this time of the year. And raise the temp inside your tent for like an hour or two before you do the painting.

Hope this helps you with your project..
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Bochek
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Post by Bochek »

well the paint is on, and the window is in, il take some pics later tonight.

It turned out great so far.

FYI im not going for a spotless job, im just using factory match spraypaint that i had custom mixed.

Just wanted to stop the rust before it gets out of hand.

Bochek
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