Curious to see who has this issue...

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » June 3rd, 2005, 10:59 pm

Ok guys.. just curious here.. seems a lot of people have the headlights dimming when they hit their brakes.. so I am looking for a common denominator as to which engines/cars have this problem the most. Please only mark the poll if you have the issue or have had this issue. If you had the issue and resolved it.. can you post what fix you did that resolved the issue?

Thanks

Tunes67

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » June 4th, 2005, 12:26 am

commonly it should be the voltage regulator which is a part of the alt. Depending on your alts age it may be burning out or gone, my interior lights still dim when I roll up the windows, but it has always done that. I've never noticed the headlamps dim unless I turn the stereo way up (older system without cap, old amps, poor wiring etc. way more than fixed that now)

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » June 4th, 2005, 4:07 am

My idle drops when i stop. If I put it in neutral it goes up a bit. If I take my foot off the break it also goes up. It almost seems as if the IAC is not recovering fast enough...??? Basically when I get almost to a complete stop i have to: Either put it in neutral with my foot lightly on the break, or leave it in gear and slightly depress the gas with the clutch fully engaged. Its really a pain in the a-- and is one of the main reasons(aside from the obvious power gains) i am swapping out the motor for the BP... This problem is my only real "beef" w/ the mx-3

projectmx · Post by **projectmx** » June 5th, 2005, 12:45 am

head lights dim and idle wavers up and down... a cheap ground kit helped for a few months but problem came back eventually

reaper of souls · Post by **reaper of souls** » June 5th, 2005, 10:54 am

hey tunes i've had the same problem even after i got a new alt unforunatly i'm starting to think it's a factory defect i just added a volt meter into my ride and when i hit the brakes you can watch the voltage drop but then the alt kicks back in a bit and brings the voltage back up i'm going to be installing a cap on my system later on in the month on my old car it worked so i'll update everone after i do if there is any change

freyguy_412 · Post by **freyguy_412** » June 5th, 2005, 1:38 pm

I had a 1.0 Farad cap for my audio system (that I won't be using again... ) and I still had the problem with lights dimming, maybe even worse with the cap. I've got the problem everyone is plagued with: lights dimming when brakes go on. Seems to be just a poorly designed charging system, maybe even a crappy setup for the Idle Control Valve. Maybe it takes to long to open and raise the rpms when the alternator adds an extra load. But I just noticed this extra problem like 2 months ago...

When you're at a stop light, turning with a signal, at a warm idle, turn your radio down and listen to the motor. I can hear my rpms drop ever so slightly when the turn signal is illuminated, then raise back up when it blinks off. Sometimes it is a little bit noticeable on my factory tach too. Any one else got it that bad?

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » June 5th, 2005, 1:53 pm

Mine will do that as well.. but only if I have other accessories going at the same time I am signalling.. like the heater, RWD, wipers, etc... Its barely noticable though. Its beginning to look like the majority of people that have this problem are the 4cyl guys. What I am finding very interesting is that apparently no one that has done a engine swap for either the 4cyl car or the V6 seem to have this problem at all. This leads me to believe its the alternator. Please correct me if I am wrong guys.. but when these engine swaps are being done.. you guys are using the alternator that is coming with the new engine right? I have seen a few folks indicate that they are using the KLZE alternator & the BP alternator. And I am now wondering of those people that have replaced their alternator to try and solve this issue if they have replaced the alternator with a Remanufactured alternator or a actual New alternator. I do appreciate all the responses so far.. keep them coming guys

Tunes67

*Edit* Thinking about it a little bit more.. there is another component that could be causing this.. especially since it seems to get replaced as well during the engine swaps.. and that would be the ECU.

Thunderstorm · Post by **Thunderstorm** » June 6th, 2005, 9:31 am

OK, I get a similar problem too.
Closing my windows AND sunroof at the same time results in the engine revs dropping quite alarmingly - so much so that the whole car shudders!

Having all electrical ancilliaries online will also cause a reduction in engine revs.

To be fair, I haven't noticed any problems when signalling or when braking with my headlights on. Nothing dims, that all seems to be working OK. My personal impression is that the Alternator supplied with the MX-3 RSes isn't very powerful.

It would be interesting to see what the result would be if one of us carried out a "power bus upgrade" - installing the uprated alternator from a GS into an RS (with whatever regulators are needed).

It is possible that may cure the problem.

Just a thought.

Thunderstorm

tw1st3d_cl0wn · Post by **tw1st3d_cl0wn** » June 6th, 2005, 1:18 pm

The only time my idle really drops, and my lights dim, is when I put my car in park. Sometimes my car will start to shudder, as if it's going to stall. Some people have reported more problems when using A/C or heat, but I never use my A/C. Slows me down too much.

But I'm sure I'd have more problems if I did use it. Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem though, and it does sound as if it's mainly a problem for those of us who have 4cyl. from what I've read in other topics concerning this type of thing. Don't have any advice to offer, but figured I'd just let you know what I experience.

V8KOMX3 · Post by **V8KOMX3** » June 10th, 2005, 3:11 am

there are usualy to causes to this problem
1) not enough grounds a multi ground kit will help this problem
2) factory wiring was to small or they used a low conductivity wire to do the wiring.

I believe most imports are plagued with both of these because it was a way to save money and make a cheaper more affordable car. I have this issue in my k8 as well but it is nothing that will effect the cars performance to a major degree. Now if you were to rewire you complete system with larger wire and a better conductive wire and led lights you would get better performance. this is from my understanding of electronics through many years of car audio sales and installs

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » June 10th, 2005, 3:24 am

already got ground wires, helped a bit, but did not completely solve the problem

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » June 10th, 2005, 1:45 pm

When I swapped the ZE I bought a remanned alt (why would you buy a new alt when a remanned one is csheaper and they replace all the moving parts and the regulator) The problem continues when I try and roll up all the windows and the sunroof at the same time. However, I've found that greasing the window slides and doing a service on the sunroof fixed the problem b/c the motors don't have to work so hard. I have never had the dimming lights with either motor on any alt. just a decrease in RPM when I load the system

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » June 10th, 2005, 1:50 pm

tw1st3d_cl0wn wrote:The only time my idle really drops, and my lights dim, is when I put my car in park. Sometimes my car will start to shudder, as if it's going to stall.

This could be signs to you that it's not really a grounding issue but rather an ATX issue. It appears that when placed in park, your ATX is still placing too much drag on the engine, ie - not fully disengaging. If it hasn't been done within the last 2 years, or if I can't determine exacty when or if it has ever been done than I would change the ATX fluid. Not sure if the 4cyl ATX has a replaceable filter also, if so change that too. I would not scrimp on what ATX fluid to use either as ATX repairs are astronomical. Go for the best fluid out there. If that doesn't solve the "shudder" issue than I believe that there may be ATX adjustments available that may address that particular issue. I'm a liitle out of my league here talking about 4cyl and ATX's. If I've really pooched this, then Tune's67 (THE 4CYL ATX GOD) will bail me out....I hope....LOL

Dot.Zero · Post by **Dot.Zero** » June 12th, 2005, 9:20 pm

change alts. and upgrade your ground wire to a 4ga kit. That helped me out!

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » June 12th, 2005, 11:37 pm

A god? Sheesh.. I wouldnt say that at all LOL Gimme an old Nova and I might live up to that or at least be able to keep up with other Nova knowledgeable folks, but I am still experimenting and learning about the MX-3.. and if I have my way.. heh.. it will only be an ATX for another 2-3 months at most LOL.

To be honest.. it never even occurred to me that it could be related to cars that have ATX trans in them.. but mine sure does.. soo.. looks like its time for a new poll LOL Wish there was a way to do dual polls in one post. Ok.. I will make a new poll post for that concept.

One thing of note though.. our ATX trans are electronically shifted, so it does follow that if you are having problems with your electrical system that your trans may not shift correctly at random times. I havent noticed this with my car.. though occasionally it will shift dang hard from first to second.. but I havent noticed any pattern as to when it chooses to do so.

Tunes67

MX-3.com

Curious to see who has this issue...

Type of engine?

Curious to see who has this issue...