FAQ: How to bleed clutch line

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quicksliver
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FAQ: How to bleed clutch line

Post by quicksliver »

You wouldn't belive how black the brake fluid in the clutch line was. It honestly looked like black coffee with chunks of dirt n' mud floating around in it. Long story short...i strongly recommend that you bleed your clutch if you don't know when it was done last. I couldn't belive my eyes...


Tools Needed

Brake Fluid
10" Extension
8mm deep socket
10mm socket
Penitrating Spray
18" Clear Vinyl tube
Container of some sort


How-to...

1. Open hood

2. Remove front air intake plastic thing that's above the radiator. It's held on by (3) 10mm bolts.

3. Look straight down right in front of the engine....you will see the front engine mount and then right above it there is a bleeder screw that is identical to what you would see on a brake caliper. **See Photo below**

Image


4. Spray the crap out of the screw with some kind of penitrating spray. Let it sit for 10 minutes.

5. Take an 10" extension and a 8mm deep socket. Loosen the bleeder screw just enough so that you will be able to turn it with your finger.
NOTE: Be very carefull not to snap this screw. I snapped a bleeder screw on my caliper last summer, belive me it's no fun. I thought it was turning when in fact the bleeder head just turned and snapped itself off the actual screw. So be carefull...

6. Put a clear vinyl tube over the screw head. Make sure it goes on very snug and tight. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear container.

7. Loosen the screw a bit more with your finger. Again, don't take the screw out.

8. Remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir.

9. Get in your car and start pumping the clutch up and down right to the floor. Just make 110% sure the brake fluid reservoir is always 3/4 full or more during this procedure.
NOTE: The care does NOT have to be 'ON'.

10. Once you start to see CLEAR brake fluid coming out with NO air bubbles.....close the screw finger tight with your fingers, and then remove the clear vinyl tube. Now using your 10" extension and 8mm deep socket...tighten the bleeder screw so that it's snug. Be very carefull not to tighten it too much as all bleeder screws are not very strong at all.

11. Replace brake fluid reservoir cap, re-insert front air intake plastic thing, and your done.


Ps. Some will argue that using my method will induce air into the system. I have used this method HUNDREDS of times and belive me, it's perfectly fine. My brakes have the brick feel and my clutch feels and performs the way it should.

You can get a vaccum gun which will suck out the old brake fluid and bring down the clear brake fluid from the reservoir. I tried this method on my brakes a few months ago and experienced nothing but problems.
Last edited by quicksliver on May 4th, 2005, 12:21 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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JWMX3
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Post by JWMX3 »

lol.. yah i got the chunky expresso when i did mine too :shock:
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94' Mx3 GS 0-60 in 7.53s [5 spd conversion / Rebuilt 2.5 KL]
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jschrauwen
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Re: ...so i bleed my clutch line today.

Post by jschrauwen »

quicksliver wrote:You wouldn't belive how black the brake fluid in the clutch line was. It honestly looked like black coffee with chunks of dirt n' mud floating around in it. Long story short...i strongly recommend that you bleed your clutch if you don't know when it was done last. I couldn't belive my eyes... For those of your wondering, you bleed it exactly the same way as you bleed brakes. The bleeder screw is located right under the front air intake thing that is mounted over top of the rad. It's by the FRONT engine mount.
I said that along time ago in discussions on SS lines. The ones with the teflon lining (looks like whitish plastic) are the perfect solution to any hydraulic line replacement. I've been making my own out of aircraft grade lines and fittings for over 15 years. The brake fluid in my Ducati is 16 years old and is as clear and transparent as when it was installed - no degradation at all. Kiwi can atteset to the pressure ratings of these lines. Suffice it to say that the seals in our cars will go before the SS teflon lines do (little exaggeration). Hydraulic fluid interacts with the linings of rubber hydraulic lines - hence the mocha tainted colour. This interaction does not occur with the SS teflon lines. On top of that, teflon lines do not bulge or flex when under severe pressure (clutch or brake) like rubber lines do. That bulging/flexing translates into lost pressure that doesn't reach it's intended destination. That's why when using SS lines it takes very little effort/pressure to attain the same results when using greater pressure with rubber lines. Those that have SS lines will probably swear by them.
Last edited by jschrauwen on May 4th, 2005, 7:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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mitmaks
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Post by mitmaks »

how many miles were on your car, any write-up on how to?
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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quicksliver
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Post by quicksliver »

233,500km's were on my car when i did it. I boughed the car used at 103,000...and this is the first time i did it.


UPDATE: How-to writeup has been posted.
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