I am about to change my oil and want to know if I shoudl change the weight too.
I have used Mobil 1 syn and recently mobil 1 exteded syn and it has been in for about 7 months.
I live in south florida so temperatures go from 30 F to 110 F.
What would be the best weight Mobil 1 Syn Exteneded oil to go with?
Lower weight also means lower resistance on the engien and possibly better gas mileage?
Thanks
Oil Weight
- MechaManZero
- Regular Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: March 20th, 2006, 7:36 pm
When I go synthetic I am going to 10W30 cause it seems lighter than normal oil which I use 5W30 even though it has the same weight ratings and such. Use Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer too. Lucas is some good stuff. 
Çlark

95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/

95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/
- BuGS
- Regular Member
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- Location: East Wenatchee, WA, USA
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No, With synthetic you can go lighter than normal. I normally run 10W40, or 10W30. With Synthetic I run 5W30. 5W30 is as thick as 10W40.MechaManZero wrote:When I go synthetic I am going to 10W30 cause it seems lighter than normal oil which I use 5W30 even though it has the same weight ratings and such. Use Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer too. Lucas is some good stuff.
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JWMotorsports
- Regular Member
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- Joined: November 21st, 2002, 2:01 am
- Location: Weyers Cave, VA
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My recommendation:
10w30 Valvoline DuraBlend w/ 1 bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil stabilizer and use the K&N Oil Filters.
Same combo I used on my test engine @ 24-26psi on BIG GT30R turbo (approx. 400WHP) for over 10,000 miles on a stock B6T bottom end (small b6 rods at that) before I finally broke a rod from fatigue and threw it through the block. Went back up the road to pick it up and it still had a THICK coating of oil on it even after flying through the oil pan and bouning down the road! I started the car and drove it up my driveway with no oil in the pan that evening, then started it and moved it into the garage 3 days later with no oil. Tore the engine out today and the entire head still has a nice coating of oil and no wear from the moveing!!!! I was already a lover of the Lucas products by now I'm in shock and awe!!!
Change it about every 3000 miles to keep the carbon build up down. Using Mobil 1 is nice...but no matter what oil it is it will never make the carbon levels dimenish. Carbon build up makes your oil become abrasive. By using the above recommendation you'll have cleaner oil changes, longer engine life, same engine protection oil film capability and spend the same amount of money. I used to be gun hoe Red Line and Mobil One, still am if you can afford to change them every 3000 miles, but not many can afford it including myself at that frequent of change intervals!
10w30 Valvoline DuraBlend w/ 1 bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil stabilizer and use the K&N Oil Filters.
Same combo I used on my test engine @ 24-26psi on BIG GT30R turbo (approx. 400WHP) for over 10,000 miles on a stock B6T bottom end (small b6 rods at that) before I finally broke a rod from fatigue and threw it through the block. Went back up the road to pick it up and it still had a THICK coating of oil on it even after flying through the oil pan and bouning down the road! I started the car and drove it up my driveway with no oil in the pan that evening, then started it and moved it into the garage 3 days later with no oil. Tore the engine out today and the entire head still has a nice coating of oil and no wear from the moveing!!!! I was already a lover of the Lucas products by now I'm in shock and awe!!!
Change it about every 3000 miles to keep the carbon build up down. Using Mobil 1 is nice...but no matter what oil it is it will never make the carbon levels dimenish. Carbon build up makes your oil become abrasive. By using the above recommendation you'll have cleaner oil changes, longer engine life, same engine protection oil film capability and spend the same amount of money. I used to be gun hoe Red Line and Mobil One, still am if you can afford to change them every 3000 miles, but not many can afford it including myself at that frequent of change intervals!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!