94 gs with a 93 DE belching black smoke but runs ok

[Broncoflyer]

Hello all,
Trying to figure out where to start. I have read 20 pages of posts here so far and have some ideas what to check first but was curious if this board is still current. (don't see too many posts for 2016). I helped my boy put a KLDE into a 94 gs with the K8. a while back. Starts and runs fine , slight miss but nothing horrendous, but it just craps black smoke and soot out of tail pipe when revved. I saw on here how to read codes so I will check that tomorrow. As far as compression I only did a dry test and got an average of 165 over 6 holes.
When we installed the newer engine I bought him a disty that was for the 93 DE engine we installed but the engine wouldn't start at all , We put the 94 K8 disty in and the car fired right up.
So far I can see that there is an exhaust manifold stud broken where the exhaust pipe bolts up and I can see it was /is leaking. I'm hoping this is causing o2 sensor to read lean and send too much fuel. I cant see any vacuum lines we missed. like I said the car is driveable other than the absolute crap gas mileage and the black stain on the driveway (or anywhere its parked running for 5 minutes)
Any help would be appreciated..... He wont let me bolt on an Edelbrock 650 from my mud truck

Thanks

[speedray]

Hello,

I have just completed a head gasket change on my car and i found that i had the black smoke problem too.
I changed the cat and decarbonised the engine as well as cleaning the egr valve and replacing the lambda sensors.
This cured my problem with the black smoke.

As for the running bad, you might need to check that the timing is correct and also change the spark plugs.

The dizzy problem might be down to the wiring being in a different order.

Also clear the ECU before looking at the codes.

[Broncoflyer]

Hello and thank you very much for your input, just a couple of questions. #1- Lambda sensors.... are you talking about the oxygen sensors? #2- I was looking at the EGR setup back there.... wayyyyyy back there..... were you able to remove this without yanking the engine? I'm trying to avoid Pulling the engine again but will if I have too. Might have to anyway to get at that broken exhaust manifold stud near the firewall.
I got home after work this morning I did the jumper wire thing to pull codes and the thing only shows 5 slow blinks.....Knock Sensor.... tomorrow morning I will see if I can get at the connector for it to try a continuity test and see if its bad. I did not clear codes before doing this. Seems like that would defeat the purpose. Clearing the codes is by pulling off negative battery cable and then stepping on brake for at least 30 seconds, correct?
I will admit this thing does need a new distributor and will order one when I get on days off.
When I helped my son put this motor in and I saw the three marks you line up to install the timing belt, can these points on the cam gears be seen with that stupid brittle plastic cover still on? I will search on here tonight to find the proper way to check base timing. I thought I saw somewhere in these forums that a jumper wire in the diagnostic box is required but I do not recall doing that when we installed the motor

Again, thanks for your help, much appreciated

[speedray]

Hello, you are welcome for the reply.
The o2 sensors are called lambda sensors so yes.
It is possible to remove the EGR setup by removing the exhaust front pipe, intake manifold (of which you will need to do to get to the knock sensor), and then you should be able to undo the exhaust manifold and remove it with the EGR setup.
This is only going on my experience on my car so it might be a bit different on yours.

You are correct in thinking for clearing the codes, the reason for clearing them is if there any codes left in the ECU memory they will be cleared and only the faults that are present will show and not the ones that are in the memory.

With regards to the Knock sensor, try another knock sensor.
If you get the same code after clearing the ECU then you will need another ECU if you don't then its the sensor.

There are a lot of problems with dizzys on this car so i installed the HEI mod and i have found this to be more reliable as have many others.

The marks for installing the timing belt are exactly that, the timing mark i refer to is on the crank pulley.
I used tippex for the mark and then timed the engine with a timing gun, as for a jumper wire, i don't know as i didn't use one when i did mine.

Also, try looking for a factory manual for the car as this would give you more information about diagnostics.

[SuperK]

if you are dripping fuel from the tailpipe, then you have a bad injector/bad injector seal. an o ring kit is pretty cheap, make sure to oil up the seals when reinstalling.