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So when I bought the car the gaskets were bad from sitting and have had a slow leak so I changed to front one no problem, only now I need to do the rear and this looks like a pain in the rear. Any tips and tricks to this? I also need to change out the rubber on the spark plug as they are leaking but not sure what to call that.

Also I assume the intake manifold has to me removed, is there anything I can remove ie. extra metal brackets usless other items. I am trying to clean up the engine bay as much as possible when I work on it.

** also if anyone has tq specs for this project sharing would be appreciated. **

torque specs are in the online workshop manual. IIRC 19-25Nm for the intake manifold.

5-8.8Nm (yes that little) for the rocker gasket- which is one piece that includes the spark plug rings that prevent your spark plug wells filling up with oil

I recommend genuine mazda rocker gaskets, from experience of various failed brands. I'm sure there's others are OK I just haven't found one other.

there is s small support that bolts from the back of the manifold down to the rear head adn it's right underneath the VRIS actuators...major PITA to remove...do it from underneath the car. Other than that, just lable all the vacuum hoses to the fitting or nipple they come off of and you'll be fine.

Installing the four nuts on the end of each manifold flange is a pain. They are really deep in there. Put a dab of grease on the nut so that it will stay in the socket as you lower it down in there. You'll go insane if you try to get them started with your fingers.

all of my rear spark plugs seem to be soaked in oil, my father who used to own a miata said that his did that and it was caused by a gasket that went in the bottom that was a guided o-ring or something. Any ideas?

Miata may be designed that way - not familiar with the BP engine, but it must have spark plug tubes that are threaded into the head with some kind of o-ring seal. That is not the design for the K series engine so just replace the valve cover gasket and it will seal the spark plug tube from the rest of the engine.

ok sounds good thanks!

The valve cover gasket includes the gasket to seal your spark plug wells. You need to apply RTV sealant (silicone) on every transitional surface, the on line manual will show you where. Additionally make sure you don't need the seals for the VC bolts. You probably don't just thought I'd mention it. Also you should replace the intake manifold metal gaskets as well.

intake manifold gaskets are overrated. use a THIN skim of RTV instead. A thick bead will press into the runners as an obstruction and possible valve damage-r.

Ryan wrote:intake manifold gaskets are overrated. use a THIN skim of RTV instead. A thick bead will press into the runners as an obstruction and possible valve damage-r.

The only issue with RTV is if you have to remove the intake again RTV acts like a glue so it can be a real PITA to loosen the intake. Now a secret is to let the thin bead of RTV 'skin over' then install the intake. I actually reused my intake gaskets I just torqued the bolts to the max torque.

I have the full gasket kit in the mail so I will just wait until that gets in, I have fully built the engine in the mustang but looking that the upper manifold on this is looking interesting... lol

Quick question: I am deleting the coolant lines that run through the throttle body but just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I have looped the lines to one another and plugged the holes in the tb. Do I keep the plug unpluged or what?

if you unplug the bac valve you'll get a CEL. Not sure how bypassing the TB will affect the ECU, but if the weather ever gets coldish it's going to affect your cold idle significantly I would think.

living in central florida it may get to the coldest of 30 degrees maybe 2-5 days, 90% of the yea is 80-100 so not extreamly worried about that.


I have seem to brought on another issue, There is the check valve located on the front valve cover next to "Mazda". That has cracked off inside the valve cover, Anyone know were I can find another one? I also need to find the part number.

it's the PCV valve. $5 at your local parts store.

wow I have been out in the sun to long today, I new it was the pcv valve but when I was looking for it I would not say pcv.. haha... Off to the part store.