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Originally posted on my Work log oops .. LOL

BP is installed but it won't start. Correct wire harness, I'm sure the timing is good, coil is firing, getting spark. It turns n turns n turns no vroom. I'm hoping the it was on account for the bad gas that was in it. This gas is drained and I have to get more gas in the morning. Ether isn't getting a kick. All vacuum lines are in place, fuses are all good. Any other suggestions? It's late so I'm calling it quits for the night so as to not get a visit from the local pd hahaha

Ryan Suggested:

Reversed fuel lines. Make sure that the one coming from the filter doesn't go in by the FPR. Line from the FPR returns to the tank.

Engine grounds.

Mechanical timing. Just double check it. Not a horrible job to pop off TB covers on a BP. Its also pretty easy to get the marks mixed up.

So...

Timing is set #1 TDC with Crank Shaft, and Rear camshaft (intake) has the "I" indicator even with timing notch on TB backing plate, Front Cam shaft (exhaust) "E" indicator even with mark on TB backing plate. Spark wires in order according to Haynes manual. Rotor TDC with #1 and crank, Fuel line is coming from filter to main rail directly connected to the injectors. I think I have the VICS wires and associated vacuum lines correct. That was hard to decipher. The motor will occasionally sputter like it wants to start but never does. Occasionally kicks over and and stops for a sec then continues turning over. It seems like it should be something easy Im just not seeing it. :-/.

P.s.- The spark plugs are getting fuel and spark for sure still no vroom

wut is this.. ??

Ok its sparking now but soon as I let off the ignition its over .

Does anything change if you play with the throttle a little bit?

sounds like an air metering problem.... VAF plugged in?

it does sputter faster but no definitive change.. Timing should be intake gas, compress, spark, exhaust right.. ??

One thing for sure, once you find the problem and the engine starts your going to have a really big smile on your face. Don't give up. You say it's getting fuel, do you mean there's fuel on the plugs or how are you determining fuel?

Fuel injector seals started leaking and the motor caught fire HAHAHAAAA Was quickly extinguished thanks to handy dandy water hose . Seals replaced back to square one. Im almost 95% its a tming problem that Im just not seeing. Yes gas on the plugs lots of back fire and the #1 gets black soot on it. Still researching. Hopefully my Honda buddy is coming over to check it out. We'll see how that goes I think I need a fresh set of eyes on it.

I;m not a 4cyl guy but is there a chance the Disty is 180deg out?

Good thought I thank you all so far for the input. The distributor points at #1 when #1 is TDC does that make it right on or is there a little something more to it. Cause this was my thoughts as wel but that lined. I just didnt know if there was a little more to it than just that alone i.e, injector timing has to match I need to do something else in combination. Keep the inputs coming Once again I thank you all for your help.

Any chance this could be the ECM. ?

unlikely, but try your old B6 ECM. it will run it.

tried that and less fire that I had with the BP ECM.. Hmm.

Might be the sneaky ground wire:

There's a ground wire on the fuse box harness that needs
to be grounded really well, id suggest bolting it to the tranny
where its meant to go and run a ground wire from battery negative.

you might have air stuck in your fuel system. I had the SAME problem... wouldn't run but would crank, had spark, and had fuel. I was checking for a fuel problem when it cranked over and ran..

I just hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the return side and had a "drain" into a bucket to try and purge the air out.. kinda hard to explain but pretty much try making sure there isn't any air stuck in the FPR or on the return side.. it caused me to see fuel, would sputter and try to start, but as soon as I let off the key it died.