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wich one is the best,reliable and really convenient on my pocket...

well depends on what engine your car currently has. since your car is a 94 i would assume its probably a 1.6 DHOC. In that case the BP would be the better swap, reliable still get good mileage and an increase in power. Fairly straight forward with the 94'. you can find these motors from 100 dollars on up. if your going to do it yourself source the engine and trans from a mid 90's Kia Sophia its a BP they tend to run a little cheaper than those with a Mazda logo. and the trans will hold up alot better vs the 1.6L trans, its the same that’s found in the 99 protege's. you will need to upgrade the axels as well.

You could run this motor on the 1.6 ECU but it will be lacking its full potential. I strongly recommend getting a BP10 ECU from an early 90' protege and the engine bay wire harness, distributor, ignition coil, and VAF. this will make the most out of the swap. if you can find a U pull you can tend to get these things at next to nothing. and the BP will rev happily to like 7200 rpm vs the 1.6 6500.


V6 swap.

Into the 4 banger makes it a little more complicated but not by much. you will have to change the ecu, engine bay harness along with the motor and trans.

Hope that helps a little. If you search then you will find write ups on the swaps.

Hmmmm....well now, let's see. KLZE=199 HP v/s BP-T=210 HP....Plus as stated earlier, if yours is a B6, then best bet is to go with the BP-T swap, but if you currently have the K8 V6, then it'd be much easier to go with the KLZE swap....but anything's possible, just depends how much you're willing to spend(both $$$$ and time) Good Luck though, hope it all turns out

You can't just look at HP figures. Torque is what really matters, and its distribution. Turbo cars only tend to make power up top, I betcha a KLZE MX-3 will walk away from a stock tune BPT MX-3.

Crossing the V6 and I4 requires a donor car, so stick with the number of cylinders you have.

Ryan wrote:You can't just look at HP figures. Torque is what really matters, and its distribution. Turbo cars only tend to make power up top, I betcha a KLZE MX-3 will walk away from a stock tune BPT MX-3.

Crossing the V6 and I4 requires a donor car, so stick with the number of cylinders you have.

I don't know if I'd agree. I have not been in either (in stock form).. but I'd say my b6-t would put up a good fight against a kl. Torque is not always your friend either, wheel spin will give you great mph in the 1320 but hurt your et. B6, BP or KL will all work (pending on your hp goal). Get a goal, get the $, get the parts and create a worklog.
turbo selection and the driver play a large part.

muttpower wrote:Hmmmm....well now, let's see. KLZE-T=300 HP v/s BP-T=210 HP....

Corrected KL-T looks better to me! At least if you start with a GS of course.

ya.. lets put a modded KL against a stock BP. There are 300hp BPTs too. And there are also 500hp KLs. Money is one hell of a deciding factor here. Lets all agree to dissagree. Hell, Josh has an AWD I4.... this will go on forever.

The swap depends on soo much as well. The trim of the car, the OP's $, skill, etc. What we can agree on here is that (normally) RS trims stick with 4cyls and GS trims, V6.

I'm a 4cyl guy, but I have nothing against V6's. I believe the best car on this site is a boosted KL. Lets just wait for the OP to give us some info before we start the p3nis contest.

Theres probably some 4-500hp BPs too. The potential for boost is virtually unlimited with enough $$. Seriously though I have no prejudice against either engine its the boost I caught the fetish for wouldn't matter to me how many cylinders. Hell after dealing with the cramped engine bay I'd almost prefer the 4. But the V6 sound will always get me.

FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT!!!!! This is awesome, I've started the engine wars again...but seriously though, there should be a matchup at the 1320 of a stock BP-T v/s a stock KLZE, with a video too.....that'd be worth watching. Oh yeah, and I still agree that torque is more important than HP...and wheel spin shouldn't be too much of an issue with a decent set of sticky tires and a good driver who know's his car's launch rpm....just saying.

Let me see...

TITOMX3 --------- KL-01 Turbo -- 11,080 -- 129.00mph
Limegreen mx-3 --- BP-DE Turbo---- 12,400 -- 118,00mph
Slammed6 --------- KLZE Nitro -- 12,600 -- 108.00mph
therieldeal --------- GTR BPT -- 12,611 -- 111.27mph
hppwdn ----------- KLZE turbo -- 12,958 -- 114.97mph
XxantwawnxX------ KLZE turbo -- 13.300 -- 110.00mph
93MX3KLZE-T ----- KLZE turbo -- 13,400 -- 108.00mph
kab-rst ------------- BP-T ---- 13.541 -- 108.00mph new time
Stereoking15 ------- KLZE N/A --- 14,084 --- ???mph
andy -------------- K8 turbo ----- 14,300 -- 105.00mph
comish71 --------- KLZE N/A ---- 14,320 -- 95.90mph
timpronk ---------- KLZE N/A ---- 14,385 -- 98.21mph
mx3autozam ------ KLZE N/A ---- 14,400 -- 99.70mph
93MX3KLZE-T ----- KLZE N/A --- 14,800 --- 93.00mph
Mooneggs --------- KLZE N/A --- 14,750 -- 94.70mph
Brennan ----------- KLZE N/A --- 15,200 -- 94.00mph
JWMX3 ----------- KLZE/DE ----- 15.453 -- 91.89mph
OutlaW ------------ K8 N/A ----- 15.567 -- 84.60mph
96mx-3 ----------- K8 N/A ----- 16.100 -- 84.40mph

All of those BPT builds are awesome. (Not stock).

I don't see a stock BPT in that list at all... hm. And most of those KL's are stock internals.

I don't understand how this is even an argument. V6 makes better torque because of the geometry of the engine. KL is 2.5 vs 1.8L. 39% more displacement.

If you drop enough money into any car, it can be faster than whatever you're trying to beat. KL is hands down easier to make power on than a BPT. Check out the availability of KL turbo parts, pistons, rods, pipes.

^^ My car no longer on that list? WTF

I like it when people bring in the ZE-T and Modded BPT's in to a discussion about a bolt-in stock swap. Turboing a KL literally doubles the cost of the swap.

Indeed there are 500-600hp BPT's out there

K, here's the break down, coming from a DOHC B6

BP/BPT: The easiest, bolt in, but you'll have to change the wiring harness and they highly recommend a longer geared g-series with it. It's more complicated than doing a KL swap into a V6 since we get to keep our harness and trans, but it's the easiest path for you.

V6 K8/KL swap: Bolt in, but requires a doner V6 Mx-3 to get all the parts to convert it all over. There's a new wiring harness and trans in this list as well, so you've got to replace those parts same as a BP swap. Literally search for 4cyl-V6 swaps, plenty of into on that.

BPT High-HP : Now you've got to take apart the motor, get forged internals, balanced even. Upgrade the valvetrain and injectors and fuel pump, wire in a fuel management system, use a much better clutch and of course, you need a new, bigger turbo. Wideband too

KLZE-T : Well, add the complexity of a V6 Swap, plus the cost and added complexity of the turbo it. Than when when you attempt to fire it up the first time, hope you do, cause you're made your job that much more miserable trying to troubleshoot all that mess. Depends on how much HP, again, upgrade the valvetrain, use forged internals, usually lower the compression, can use Millenia S rods up to a certain point. Injectors and fuel pump. Can use an just FMU, but that's for <300hp setups usually, if not you need a fuel management system. Wideband too

Ryan wrote:Let me see...
I don't understand how this is even an argument. V6 makes better torque because of the geometry of the engine. KL is 2.5 vs 1.8L. 39% more displacement.

If you drop enough money into any car, it can be faster than whatever you're trying to beat. KL is hands down easier to make power on than a BPT. Check out the availability of KL turbo parts, pistons, rods, pipes.

HAHAHAHAH

OK now
A stock BPT is about 187HP to the crank... now a GTR motor is 210HP to the crank... now a NA BP with a stock BPT mani and turbo with BPT intake manifold tends to yield an average of 190WHP.... A Turbo B6DE tends to yield about 145-160WHP and a B6T averages about 130ish those are average stock numbers give or take some

SO when you look at the power to weight ratio a with a Lower displacement turbo car vs a higher displacement none turbo car with an added 200-300lbs It makes a difference.

most KLZE cars tend to only run low 14 maybe high 13's. and that’s only a handful of properly tuned KLZE's. now most with a DE or a ZE with a DE tuning tend to run in the 15's in the 1/4 mile.

OK B6T's in a mx3 tend to run in the low 14's on average. Mine ran a 14.1 @ 98MPH on 6psi of boost. most BPT guys run low to mid 13's to low 14's given the driver and or car ect.

Now what makes a BPT awesome and not stock vs the KLZE?
I know that most run higher boost and that tends to be about all you need with any Turbo BP. most of these guys running ZE's and DE's are running the 1.8L flywheel or an aftermarket, on these motors that makes a big difference. So are they stock?...

keep in mind that im not really partial to either but:
and you can't beet displacement (except fot a rotory) I might make the argument that they are similar in HP but stock for stock the I4 will always come out on top.

And are you sure about the "better torque" thing... you might be surprised if you looked at a couple dyno sheets. Bugs car dyno'd at 212hp and 210tq at the wheels on stock boost of 8psi
when a stock KL dyno's there let me know

xXsalvador wrote:wich one is the best,reliable and really convenient on my pocket...

Look, the poor SOB asked a simple question but we're all so starved for a good technical post look what you've done. Now what the hell is he suppose to do?

So the simple answer should be stick with a 4 cyl in an RS or V6 in a GS. In both cases they can be reliable correct? As long as you start with a healthy engine and do the appropriate supporting mods. Both BPs and KLs are everywhere. The OP never even stated what he's starting with did he? So here we go starting the infamous I4 vs V6 argument.

It's a Mazda, reliable is in its blood no matter the motor