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All I know for sure right now is MS and ported G4 IM with matching TB. The rest is what I am trying to figure out. This is going to happen in stages since this car is my DD.

Stage 1 is to get my DD to a point where I am happy enough until i get my motor build done. Im going to get my G4 IM, and TB installed and MS, and then I am trying to figure out the rest. Im thinking of putting in a Southbend Stage 2 clutch with Fidanza flywheel, yes I know I dont need a stage 2 but later I will and I dont feel like getting two seperate ones. Then I have to find out what cams to get to get me some real good torque. Im not going to be upgrading my valves at all since this is going to be a temporary stage until I get my motor done, so i need some help deciding on cams. Its tough because I obviously want the most power, but i wont be able to rev too much bc i will have stock valve-train so help with this?

Stage 2 will begin with finding a good DE. Once I get one I will take it in and get it bored .040. Then I wil be gettting the Heads ported and polished. After that I am going to get some Interprep Valve Springs and Retainers and get that done with a valve job. At this point I will have fully figured out what rod/piston combo to go with and this is when I get those installed. After that I will get my Cams installed...currently thinking of going with the 218 Colt Cams, but open for discussion obviously. After that I will have to look at fuel, and Im probably going to upgrade to a Walboro 255, and get a modded fuel rail so i can have nissan 255 injectors. After that is all done I think i will be ready to have it all balanced correct? Or do I need my trans off my car and on that too get it balanced correctly?

Stage 3 should be just taking the new motor and installing it with the trans of my current car.

The reason I am doing this is because this is the only way i can think of doing this without losing my car for more than a few days at a time. Everything in stage 1 looks like it can be done within a few hours at a good shop so I wont be majorly missing it then. And stage 2 will all be goin on while my car is still running, and Im hoping that stage 3 should just take a day to pull one motor and put the other one in.

So...Thoughts?

You say 'shop' a lot...

Most of these things you can do solo with just basic tools. Save the money you'd pay a shop, do some of the work yourself, and buy better parts...

I see shop one time in there and that is for the tuning of MS...so what would you reccomend for "better" parts?

Now that I think of it, you're just speaking in future progressive... like "I will be getting" which sounds like you're outsourcing it.

Ok I see, and yes all of the machining on the head work will be getting done professionally. I want to do it the right way and I personally have never done engine work, so I am not going to be ghetto-rigging this together in my garage. Some of the stuff I can do, but I will definately have it all installed by a shop, so I can make sure its done right.

illinin09 wrote:...Im hoping that stage 3 should just take a day to pull one motor and put the other one in.

Spoken like a man who has never done an engine swap.

If you were pulling one engine and replacing it with another, identical engine that may be possible. But you will be pulling out your old engine and putting in your mythical new "Built" engine. There will be problems. There are always problems. Just set more realistic timelines is all I'm saying. Consider how long you think it should take in the worst case...and add 50%.

Then add another 50% to that if you really aren't sure

I will not be swapping the motor myself. This is going to be done right. So if i go to benchmark tuning to have it done, which is where i will be going, how long do you think its going to take haha?

I would not trust a shop lol..... and they will take a week if they aren't already heaps busy.

Up to you, but you will save at least 500-1000 for removing the engine yourself. Putting it together and getting things machined is fine if you want it done professionally but removing these motors is not the hardest thing in the world so long as you have a friend help. Plus you learn a lot too in the process!

The stock DE valvetrain is fine, as long as you use good oil. When doing the headwork, don't neglet deshrouding, and don't bother getting bigger valves. A light Port & Polish + deshroud is all that neccessary, unless your getting ITBs. The IM will restrict flow before the heads will.
EDIT: Balancing is done on the rotating assembly (By a shop). It includes the rods, pistons, and crank. The better you balance them the better power you get. Mine is very well balanced, and it makes a difference. For torque, you'll want the short headers, and ZE exhaust cams. An underdrive pulley will help, too.

Just ZE cams? What is the best cams out there for torque?

Im looking around and I see a Paeco engine stage 2 for 6000....thats fully built and balanced...anyone have thoughts on that?

Do a search about the Paeco engines. I have never known of anyone getting one. If you've got the money, you could have someone else do it for less. If you're the kind of person that would rather know it's done right, and be willing to spend the money on it, it looks like a good way to go. I've always wished someone would do it, and post results.

You have to be more specific about the torque you want. Colt 218 cams will give the most torque, and HP, but it will be high in the rpm. If you want streetable torque down low (which is what I thought you meant), you'd want what I recommended. You could also get adjustable cam pulleys, and get the grunt down lower.
I like torque. There are many other things that will get it, too. I think that when I get my stuf put in, and have a good tune, my torque numbers will by very close to the HP,

so yes the more research i do on paeco, some people rip on their service, but most of them never have actually dealt with them...so im not i will start saving some major $$ and have some phone conversations with them and see what the deal is, but stage 2 looks pretty legit to me. Plus its basically bulletproof so if i want to in a few years i can throw a few psi at it. So what do you think would be my best bet for toruqe in stage 1? stage 1 will last me probably til mid-winter because its gunna take some time to get 6g's. So Im looking for an extremely mild build that will get the most torque. As said before, Ill have a 2.25" Exhaust, ebay headers, MS, ported G4 IM, and TB to match. What would be the best cams to go with for decent low-end torque, since thats where i will be most of the time. I am completely asking about stage 1 here....for stage 2, I am pretty sure I am going to go with the Paeco build...

A valve job, port/ polish, bore and hone, decking.. all in a few hours? Dude you be crazy