MX-3.com

Hopefully I'm not beating a dead horse, but this has been on my mind and I haven't asked it yet.

AFAICT this is the long straight KL manifold:



but according to this post:

http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 79#p219179

KLZE will have:
-KL31 xxx marked on the heads
-KL01 or KL31 stamped on the camshafts [KL01 for ZE's from Millenias, and KL31 for ZE's from MX-6's]
-Square runners, either curved neck [Millenia] or long straight neck [MX-6] manifold. NOTE: MX-3's can only use the Millenia curved neck manifold, as the MX-6 manifold puts the TB where the master cylinder is.
-No EGR port on the rear exhaust manifold is definately a ZE, though some ZE's have come with EGR.

The long straight neck manifold shouldn't fit. So why does my manifold not block the master cylinder? It doesn't look like the master cylinder has been moved (or has it?); does that mean my engine is mounted too far forward? If that's the case, could this cause problems or is it just a weight distribution issue?

In order to make mine fit I replaced the stock brake booster with an MX-6 booster modified to accept the stock brake master cylinder. But even with that I was not able to use the stick throttle linkage. I had to modify it as it was making contact with the brake reservoir. I am in the process of relocating my reservoir so that I can swap an unmodified ZE throttle body in there to see if that improves my idle problems.

The stock booster sticks out a good 2-3”, whereas the MX-6 booster is quite a bit thinner. You will be able to tell if something like that was done on yours.

Each car might be just slightly different enough... I've seen str8 necks fit in MX-3s. I've also seen them break the booster under load. If you have solid motor mounts, and a torque strut, you can immobilise the engine. If you have an inch between the neck and booster, you'd be fine (with the soild motor mounts & stut).

I don't know Jesse. I don't think that it's even poassible at all with the stock booster. The IM would have interfered by a good inch on mine. It sticks way out. I have seen guys with the slim booster who were able to use the complete ZE 2 stage throttle linkage, but with mm's to spare.

Which TB are you using?

Who me? I'm using a KL31 with modified bell crank.

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Which TB are you using?

I'm familiar with all the different intakes from reading about them in the FAQ; how many different throttle bodies are there?

The answer is- take a look at your throttle body- there is a number stamped on the top right near the intake tube. That number will tell us which TB you have. Likely it will be something like- "KL" followed by 2 numbers.
I fit str8 neck ZEs all the time. There is some modifing of the TB as well as other things, so who ever did your ZE figured some things out. However, unless it is done properly the motor can rock back into the master cylinder and cause brake failure. So I would check the clearance and if you still feel comfortable fill the front and rear mount. Before someone found liquid 2 part urethane from McMaster Carr I chained the front motor mount to the lower cross member so that the engine could not rock backward much at all. Now, I have filled the front and rear with some 90a urethane and it holds the motor nicely. If you fill the mounts make sure to use some large washers on either side of the mount to hold the urethane in after it dries. I've seen it seperate and work its way out of the mount... I would not go for a strut, they are crap and do not really work. They might dampen the engine movement, but they are not going to stop it unless the strut bottoms out...

pat told teh secret!

Totally.
BUT;
My torque strut works, and it was cheap!
There was noticibly less engine movement when I put it on, and I didn't realize at the time that my motor mounts went bad.
The strut is just a cylinder with a shaft, and bushings, and bottoms out after about ¼".
It was $24. There's a write-up in my worklog.