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Does anyone have any experience with attempting this mod of installing solid lash adjusters from a 2000 and up Mazda 626 KLG4 2.5L motor

Why, Dan, why?
I've read up on it, and you have to adjust them with shims every 60,000 miles (IIRC), which involves removing the cams. Plus, you have to use the G4 cams, or change the ramp angles on your cams. It would be an improvement, but very time consuming, and expensive, for the benefit. I believe it all swaps in, though.

Well some of us aren't lazy eh. The pursuit of performance excellance is not for the faint of heart. Only the chosen chizelled few have reached the evolutionary technical apex to asipre beyond the surly bounds of common mechanical twiddling. But yes I know the cams need to be reground and as far as readjusting the cams, who keeps a car for 60,000(100,000kls) anyway.

There has been alot of talk about HLA versus SLA over a ProbeTalk. I believe the general concensus was unless you plan to rev over 9000, it is not worth the effort.

Of course, if you're working some magic for leo323, by all means, go right ahead

Daninski wrote: The pursuit of performance excellance is not for the faint of heart. Only the chosen chizelled few have reached the evolutionary technical apex to asipre beyond the surly bounds of common mechanical twiddling.

how dare you twiddle j-beefs masterpiece...

i think its worth it to never hear that awful worn out hla tick ever again. i hate that tick it drives me insane. stupid kls.

Pros and Con's

You can change a HLA into a solid lifter by removing the guts out of the HLA and putting a dowel
pin ground to the correct lenght back in place..

ticking can ocurr with a valve to lifter gap of 0.002" or more..

pulling your HLA's apart and cleaning them out will stop ticking as the internals of them get get blocked
up rather easy....

JWMX3 wrote:

Daninski wrote: The pursuit of performance excellance is not for the faint of heart. Only the chosen chizelled few have reached the evolutionary technical apex to asipre beyond the surly bounds of common mechanical twiddling.

how dare you twiddle j-beefs masterpiece...

I'll twittle and diddle as I see fit. It's now the D-beefski special and I'll mod it as I see fit.

Daninski wrote:Well some of us aren't lazy eh.

True. I just threw a few V-tec stickers on mine, and suddenly thought I was fast and furious.
You are a master... tinkerer, for sure.
I hope you do it with great success!

IMO not really a necessary mod and a bit of a time waste, unless yours are collapsed or mega-clogged and you have to dig them out anyway.

As long as you don't starve them and keep the oil clean, HLAs do their job and don't get clogged. And if they do get a bit of crud in them, SeaFoam in the oil for a few miles should clean them out reasonably well.

In my experiance with nissan engines, in particular the RB20DE which has very similar HLA's to the KL motor, if you want to reve beyond 10000rpm you just cant use the HLA's, what happens is that they collapse and you just lose power.

We also tried making the HLA's solid, it works though because of the weight of the lifter it was not reliable. The best thing to do is get solid lifters and shims on the valve stem. Its a pain to adjust lash but when you have a motor that is singing over 10000rpm it is just pure bliss.

I am currently starting work on a KLZE build that will be purely a drag race motor. It would go into a RWD car that is about 1900lbs. The only problem i am having right now is cams that are large enough for my needs. I might end up getting billets or hard weld ones done as everyone i have talked to, and i have talked to nearly everyone who has worked on the KL have not made cams as aggressive as i am looking for.

I read about a dyno test done on a larger engine with HLA's then
solid lifters used. There was about 40ish horsepower difference at
7000 rpm and above but below that in the normal driving rpm range
(gonna say 600-5000rpm) there is no real difference. I think it was
in a performance mag, I'll look it up and post the reference if anyone
is interested.

But long a-- read short - unless its a drag car there is not much point
to swapping to solid lifters. You would see more benefit getting a custom
set of camshafts for $600-1000 for the extra 10-15 horsies and then
not have to mess with adjusting them all the time.

Colt will do a custom cam for you if you're willing to pay for it.

Darknight, I'm having a hard time imagining that you need something more aggressive than Colt does. Even if you do ITBs, and a huge exhaust, I don't think there would be restriction, if you deshroud, and port the heads, but I'm always open to learning!
DEFINATELY do a worklog!

fowljesse, the cams that Colt advertise and i am assuming they are for the ford probe, are less aggressive than the interprep cams. The interprep cams themselves are not aggressive enough for power beyond 9000rpm. Keep in mind that what i am trying to build is a pure drag race motor. similar to leo's motor and he himself has found that the cams are too mild at this stage of development.

I will definatly keep a work log and intend to have an updated thread on progress. I dont imagine it will be something that i will finish quickly as i am yet to source a good core engine. I have put out feelers in the market for the following:

1 x KLZE motor
1 x KL motor
1 x suzuki H25a motor
1 x suzuki H27a motor

If i can get these for a good price i will try and get all of them, the reason i want the suzuki motors is that i have owned 2 suzuki jeeps in the past one with the H20a and the other with the H25a and in particular the H25a motor with just mechanical fan delete was very fast and i am thinking there is more in common between the mazda and suzuki than meets the eye. I would also like to determine if the suzuki camshaft can work with the mazda and if so is it a better core to use for a regrind.