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Alright I am having an issue of when I turn the control switch on, my car shutters and almost stalls. My subs make a small "boof" and then shut off. The amp stays on through all of this, I made sure that my Positive 12V+ and the ground are in the proper slots. Could it be the negative and positive inside the sub-woofer box? Is this caused by the subs not being ported? I have everything correct up to the AMP, I'll look into the sub box and double check. Any help would be appreciated. My amp is a PYRAMID - Royal Blue 2400 Watt Duel Mossfett amp. The Speakers are 2x 12inch 1600 Watt LANZAR - Vibe Sub-woofers.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere, but a short would blow a fuse. Are you sure the amp's good? Pyramid is that cheap ebay brand isn't it?

Mad Cow wrote:Sounds like you have a short somewhere, but a short would blow a fuse. Are you sure the amp's good? Pyramid is that cheap ebay brand isn't it?

Lol... not really. It's a good hard punching amp, I found out what is wrong, I bridged one of the 1600's and it works... the amp cannot put out for the 2 1600's... honestly the 1200's that I use to have worked just fine with it; and yet my brother decided to buy me 2 1600's... I'm going to invest in some 1200's once again.

madcow i like your thinking.

steckino you need to upgrade to quality parts. sorry but pyramid is not a great brand. and lanzar subs are not teh best out there but they are much better then pyramid.

NEUMAN

neuspeedescort wrote:madcow i like your thinking.

steckino you need to upgrade to quality parts. sorry but pyramid is not a great brand. and lanzar subs are not teh best out there but they are much better then pyramid.

NEUMAN

Sorry but my opinion differs from yours, Lanzar subs aren't impressive in all honesty in comparison to the Pyramid subs I had. Even if it is one bridged it didn't have the same kick as the 2x 1200 watts that I use to have. It should be capable to do that since it is peaking at maximum wattage. Please don't tell me to upgrade from something that works. I'm not going to go out and buy 10,000 dollars worth of stereo equipment that is just over the top. Not trying to make this into a debate... I just think that your opinion has nothing to do with the topic... and shouldn't be pushed at me.

steckino wrote:

neuspeedescort wrote:madcow i like your thinking.

steckino you need to upgrade to quality parts. sorry but pyramid is not a great brand. and lanzar subs are not teh best out there but they are much better then pyramid.

NEUMAN

Sorry but my opinion differs from yours, Lanzar subs aren't impressive in all honesty in comparison to the Pyramid subs I had. Even if it is one bridged it didn't have the same kick as the 2x 1200 watts that I use to have. It should be able it since it is peaking at maximum wattage. Please don't tell me to upgrade from something that works. I'm going to go out and buy 10,000 dollars worth of stereo equipment that is just over the top. Not trying to make this into a debate... I just think that your opinion has nothing to do with the topic... and shouldn't be pushed at me.

He's just giving you advice, because down the road, that amp will likely blow up or stop working for no reason. And why are you buying cheap, high wattage stuff if you could be buying quality, lower wattage parts? I have 2 10" phoenix gold subs (not saying they're the best, but I heard they're pretty good) running off a 300-something watt sony (before Xplod series) amp and it's enough. Why do you need so much bass in such a small car?

And also, why would it do that? If there's too much current going through it the fuse would blow, why would it do that without actually playing anything?

Mad Cow wrote:

steckino wrote:

neuspeedescort wrote:madcow i like your thinking.

steckino you need to upgrade to quality parts. sorry but pyramid is not a great brand. and lanzar subs are not teh best out there but they are much better then pyramid.

NEUMAN

Sorry but my opinion differs from yours, Lanzar subs aren't impressive in all honesty in comparison to the Pyramid subs I had. Even if it is one bridged it didn't have the same kick as the 2x 1200 watts that I use to have. It should be able it since it is peaking at maximum wattage. Please don't tell me to upgrade from something that works. I'm going to go out and buy 10,000 dollars worth of stereo equipment that is just over the top. Not trying to make this into a debate... I just think that your opinion has nothing to do with the topic... and shouldn't be pushed at me.

He's just giving you advice, because down the road, that amp will likely blow up or stop working for no reason. And why are you buying cheap, high wattage stuff if you could be buying quality, lower wattage parts? I have 2 10" phoenix gold subs (not saying they're the best, but I heard they're pretty good) running off a 300-something watt sony (before Xplod series) amp and it's enough. Why do you need so much bass in such a small car?

And also, why would it do that? If there's too much current going through it the fuse would blow, why would it do that without actually playing anything?

My brothers amp from 5 years ago is still running like the day he bought it. People under estimate Pyramid... LOL I love it! that's why! hahah... makes the cars beside me rumble it "WOWS" people when they get in my car... also gives a massage for me while driving. haha OH and I can only run one lanzar 1600 watt sub-woofer at the moment, but it doesn't even compare to the 2 1200's I use to have.

I'm thinking about getting 2x 1200 Watt Boss Sub-woofers. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =techSpecs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I wonder how good they are...

Well it costs $60 from radio shack, that sets off every single warning signal I can imagine. Honestly, what do you expect? Are you one of those people that just wants a tons of muddy, distorted bass because it rumbles? I wonder what the real RMS power of that pyramid amp is.

Mad Cow wrote:Well it costs $60 from radio shack, that sets off every single warning signal I can imagine. Honestly, what do you expect? Are you one of those people that just wants a tons of muddy, distorted bass because it rumbles? I wonder what the real RMS power of that pyramid amp is.

No I want a clear good signified PUNCH, but I want it to heavy and deffinite; a lot of songs out there make bass just rumble more then a punch like it should be.

As for the Boss... Well I was only curious. I usually hear good things about Boss... BUT never mind.

Let the poor guy whatever crap he wants.

It will run, but I think he'll know when it fries.

Actually help him with the problem.

steckino wrote:Alright I am having an issue of when I turn the control switch on, my car shutters and almost stalls. My subs make a small "boof" and then shut off. The amp stays on through all of this, I made sure that my Positive 12V+ and the ground are in the proper slots. Could it be the negative and positive inside the sub-woofer box? Is this caused by the subs not being ported?

I vote he's shorting something too... shutter+stall sounds like he's way overdrawing.

Soundsl like it does it every time, so he'd know if it were a fuse...

If the amp stays on the subs are "on" maybe its an issue with the headunit...

You can't put subs with "too high" of a rating on any amp. You could put a "2000W" sub up to a 100W output. Its handling power, not draw. The draw is decided by the resistance in the circuit. When pushing the systems, the ratings will tell you which will pop first (aside from a ball park on what kinda power the amp is actually moving)

Ryan wrote:Let the poor guy whatever crap he wants.

It will run, but I think he'll know when it fries.

Actually help him with the problem.

steckino wrote:Alright I am having an issue of when I turn the control switch on, my car shutters and almost stalls. My subs make a small "boof" and then shut off. The amp stays on through all of this, I made sure that my Positive 12V+ and the ground are in the proper slots. Could it be the negative and positive inside the sub-woofer box? Is this caused by the subs not being ported?

I vote he's shorting something too... shutter+stall sounds like he's way overdrawing.

Sounds like it does it every time, so he'd know if it were a fuse...

If the amp stays on the subs are "on" maybe its an issue with the headunit...

You can't put subs with "too high" of a rating on any amp. You could put a "2000W" sub up to a 100W output. Its handling power, not draw. The draw is decided by the resistance in the circuit. When pushing the systems, the ratings will tell you which will pop first (aside from a ball park on what kinda power the amp is actually moving)

Thank you, I can run one Sub-woofer no problem by bridging it, but when it comes to 2x 1600 watt subs it does the symptom I said earlier and yet the amp stays on, although when I use to run 2x 1200 watt subs whenever it would be pushed too much the amp would turn off from over-heating. I remember my brother running the same speakers(1200's Pyramid) on a weaker amp (The amp I told you about earlier in this topic) and yet it ran fine on his 1600 watt amp just fine. But when it comes to a 2x 1600 watt Lanzar subs it can't even push the two together, and yet pushes one by it's lonesome.

are you sure you've wired it correctly? thats all I can reall think of.

Ryan wrote:are you sure you've wired it correctly? thats all I can reall think of.

It's all correct. The alternator is old... it's the original one that came with the car, and it has been sitting for a WHILE. My friend told me that it is the alternator. He put a better alternator in the parts car; I might take it out... but i am not sure if it is the same alternator style from a B6D to a B6 i4. Would it be capable of crossing over?


(I'm actually going to sell my car... I can't get on top of it all It's starting to rust and I don't want to get a $6000 loan and put it into the MX-3... when I can buy a MUCH better car with less/no rust on it for that amount; it would be absurd with my budget to try and trick out the car/repair it to mint condition.)

Run each sub in series then parallel the two of them together, you'll end up with an easy load for your PYRAMID to handle, mine can go down to a quarter ohm without a hiccup, but i just buy overpriced stuff anyway, lol.

A 1200 Watt low budget poo quality amp is like the equivilant to a 300 Watt quality amp that only costs about $200 more... sorry to say.

But back to the problem at hand...

Are those Pyramid amps even fused??