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Does anybody know the quick release bolts for seat posts and wheels on bicycles? Is it possible to modify the design to larger bolts so that I can remove and replace my rear strut tower bar at will?

i dont see why it couldnt be done..but, why? the strut bar isnt something that u take off and on freguently

So I can carry larger loads and maybe camp. Muaha.

I could see the rear strut bar getting in the way of larger items in the trunk. I've had to remove it to move things before. Not to mention, you have to remove the front one any time you want to do anything with your spark plugs. It would be pretty handy to be able to remove them quickly.

I'm pretty good at imagining stuff like this (I'm a drafting nut) and I can't really think of anything. It needs to be mounted solidly. The best you could probably do is have huge mother wingnuts on there.

Checking the internet, some people have cotter pin setups. That scares me.

Oh, here's a good one.



It doesn't take the plate off, just the bar! Good idea also, simple. Just find a quick release that fits in the holes on your bar. Shouldn't be hard...

That's exactly what I was after!

I hade the exact same Idea! however, I wrote it off because I didn't think it would be stiff enough. I feel like if it's not torqued hard, it won't work. One thing I thought of to help with it having less tension holding the 2 pieces together was: Make radial grooves, like your seatpost has, on the bolts, nuts, and baseplates, to keep it from moving. It would be great if there were a quick release bolt that thick. I just unbolt mine every time. It's not bad.

is it not possible to change spark plugs on klze/klde with strut bar in place?? i know i had no problem doin them on my k8 with the strut bar in place...mind you it would have been nice to be able to remove it quickly when i was hooking up my power cable for my amp,,the cable slipped and made contact wit the strut bar and basically welded itself to it

tehbrookzorz wrote:So I can carry larger loads and maybe camp. Muaha.

the price you pay for performance

even if you had a quick release you would still need to remove the rear speaker panels to get to it and lift it out... I suppose that is easier but I agree with fowljesse that if it's not super stiff then it defeats the purpose of the strut bar altogether...

I am curious how it turns out though if you suceed

No, Ryan pinpointed what I meant. Just take the bar itself off, and leave the mounting feet in place under the strut mount bolt nuts. If we could find what he has pictured, it will do the job nicely, and not sacrifice the performance of the bar while installed (theoretically).

tmac4t4 wrote:the cable slipped and made contact wit the strut bar and basically welded itself to it

...I had almost the same thing happen to me, I was driving and my bass just cut out. Pulled over popped the hood, the power wire pulled out of the fuse holder...

I agree with mooneggs. That quick release is still gonna be hiding under the plastic speaker covers, unless you have a huge hole to access it from the trunk.

I just don't think this set up will work for the MX3

Heres a couple pics from WRX

heres a place that sells them

http://www.jcwhitney.com/WHITELINE-QUIC ... _10102.jcw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As far as the tightness affecting the effectiveness of the strut...it really depends on the fit of the pin. That Subaru unit Ukrman posted would work great. I think I will copy that design and sell it to the masses.

You could just buy a bunch of seatpost clamp quick releases, and make the sleeves. Or better yet, get a rod the right thickness, and machine down the end to the right dia. and thread them to fit the cam side. Get the highest tensile strength steel that you can machine. Also, make the part that the cam rides in out of metal.

BEST yet, make the whole thing bigger. Make the cam lever big enough to screw onto the bolts that come with the bars.
I would definitely buy them if you did them this way.