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I was just wondering what the differences are between the different fuel pressure regulators for sale on ebay.

Some are 30 bucks, while other are 100 bucks. Thats quit a difference.

Any idea;s?

Yes, yes and hell yes.

No fuel means no engine. A cheap part will fail. Check out the supra forums. Some dude put an obx fpr (~30-50.00) on a brand new rebuild. I think my bro said that he blew 2 cyls.

I purchased an NRG fpr w/ guage. It came to ~120.00. I know of several guys running these on sr20's and what not. You can't go wrong with aem, aeromotive, sard or synapse. I just like nrg because they have the barbed rail fittings for our cars.

There are kits for the k8 around somewhere... I'm sure you'll find them if you search. Bottom line, do not cheap out on something sending the blood to your cars vitals.

Does it matter if i would take one for a turbo driven car or is there no difference?

I can find an OBX for 100 bucks or Autotechnic as well

would not touch them with a 10' pole.

You should never need a fpr unless you have larger injecters and much more hp than stock eg: boost.

No obx.. it fails and blows engines. No autoteq... I was thinking about them b4 I knew how important they really are. If it fails it will cause detonation and who knows what else. I know there are a couple guys running boosted setups with a 30 dollar autoteq and they are working fine... but there are always exceptions out there.

Bottom line, we can only point you in the right direction. If you choose otherwise, we will always be here to say "I told you so."

RS_OBD'oh_2 wrote:
Bottom line, we can only point you in the right direction. If you choose otherwise, we will always be here to say "I told you so."

You're so nice

RS_OBD'oh_2 wrote:
You should never need a fpr unless you have larger injecters and much more hp than stock eg: boost.

I will run nitrous on my klze and don't want to run lean.

Ok.. I've done some reading.

I believe you only need a fpr for the lpdp system for nitrous. The "low pressure direct port" system needs ~6psi of fuel to each cyl. I highly doubt you will be doing a direct port setup.

What looks like your best option (I am in no way a nitrous guy) is a "wet" HPSN (high pressure single nozzel) set up. This will be running fuel and nitrous to their own selenoids and then supplying the mix b4 the plenum. This way you will have both the fuel and nitrous set the way it is supposed to be.

If you go with a dry system (using the factory fuel system to supply the needed fuel) You need to control the pressure to the fpr. Because the means that the pressure is not static, an after market fpr is not really required. You will need to control the fuel with some thing like Venom's VCN-1000 or VCN-2000.

FYI

For a great resource look up Dsport mag back issue #48



I never intend to be an a--... But it's the only thing I'm good at.

Oke, I will buy one of those

But the standard come WITHOUT a gauge ... I would like to have a gauge with it.

I think you may have missed something.

Basically, you do not need to upgrade the fuel regualator. The only time you will need to adjust the fuel pressure is if you run a direct port low pressure system. That is not what you want. You want to run a wet single port nos injection. This has a fuel line and nitrous line giong to a single injector (included in the nos/vex...etc kit).......... so no fpr.

The venom systems quoted above should not be what you are looking for.

I think you may need to read up about nitrous b4 you go any further.

If you only want a fancy guage this is the wrong way to go about spending money you don't need to.

Are you sure about the fuelpressure?

A lot of other people are telling me i should take a fpr with nitrous. (even if its just to be sure i won't run lean)

You must mean an FMU. Even then, with the wet kit you should be fine. There is much more to nitrous then geting a kit and spending 3 hours installing it. There are many controllers out there that will give you a cut off and better performance. You can damage an engine if you use too much nitrous... or just at the wrong time.

Safety is also our main objective. You'll have to read up on dump tubes, nitrouse purge systems and nitrous conrollers.

An FMU is a passive device that adds fuel when needed. Personally, I'd like to be proactive instead of reactive.

I got an ebay cosmo afpr.. it seems to be rising rate as the pressure goes up whrn i floor it. been running it for a while. Dunno if cosmo is an ebay brand.. i got it on probetalk.


Dont get the no name fprs.. theya re just little batterls with a spring and a gauge..


theres amod u can do to the stock regulator.. i think u hack the top and put a screw.. not to sure how..


buy a good name one i say.

You dont need one unless you are turbo.. or got a wideband to be able to tune the afs under wot which should be around 12 af.


I only have it because I was turbo. I found it verty easy to fine tune and diagnoze my mx3 using the afpr , wideband in conjuction.

I havge a walbro fuel pump tho and i have my fuel psi at 15 because the fuel pump is an overkill(i got a wideband to monitor all that)