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Posted: June 5th, 2006, 7:58 pm
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Posted: June 5th, 2006, 10:20 pm
i would look at the caliper, check the sliders and piston make shure they move freely.
Posted: June 6th, 2006, 6:39 am
Calipers aren't working properly if one side is wearing out quicker than the other. You should be able to put a kit in them.
Posted: June 6th, 2006, 10:53 am
I had the same problem, you can buy a rebuild kit that is really easy to do. Its more than likely that the slides are seized like mine were, and that will be the hardest part to get out (slides are the cylinders that the caliper mounting bolts go through).
I mashed mine with hammers trying to get one out and mushroomed the tip, luckily while i was picking up the kit i brought in the caliper and showed it to a mazda mech who offered to cut and press them out for me. I shot him a $20 for saving me the headache...The rest was easy.
Do get yourself a few bottles of DOT3 brake fluid so you wont run out like i did.
Oh and you will need something to hone the crud out the hole where the slide goes, i had a few new brass dremmel wire wheels which fit in there perfect and cleaned the crap out real nice (ONLY SAND THE HOLE THAT DOES NOT USE THE LONG RUBBER SEAL) you will see what i mean. And dont sand too much, you dont want play in there.
And when you try to get the piston out of the caliper, the easiest way is to use compressd air..but put a piece of wood in between the piston and the caliper, cause when it pops out it has some force and will make a loud pop and will smash off the the outside of the caliper (found out the hard way) scared me too
Was my first time taking brakes apart and was a pretty good learning exp, u should give it a try, or you could pay out the a-- for a rebuild one.
g/l
I mashed mine with hammers trying to get one out and mushroomed the tip, luckily while i was picking up the kit i brought in the caliper and showed it to a mazda mech who offered to cut and press them out for me. I shot him a $20 for saving me the headache...The rest was easy.
Do get yourself a few bottles of DOT3 brake fluid so you wont run out like i did.
Oh and you will need something to hone the crud out the hole where the slide goes, i had a few new brass dremmel wire wheels which fit in there perfect and cleaned the crap out real nice (ONLY SAND THE HOLE THAT DOES NOT USE THE LONG RUBBER SEAL) you will see what i mean. And dont sand too much, you dont want play in there.
And when you try to get the piston out of the caliper, the easiest way is to use compressd air..but put a piece of wood in between the piston and the caliper, cause when it pops out it has some force and will make a loud pop and will smash off the the outside of the caliper (found out the hard way) scared me too
Was my first time taking brakes apart and was a pretty good learning exp, u should give it a try, or you could pay out the a-- for a rebuild one.
g/l
Posted: June 6th, 2006, 8:54 pm
before you invest in a rebuild kit . I had my back ones starting to do that a little brake part cleaner and Wd-40 and it was good as new, just need to free um up
Posted: June 7th, 2006, 11:04 pm
ya anti-sieze works good, pull out all the pins clean them with a wire well or brush. lube the sliders and reassemble it.
Posted: June 8th, 2006, 7:24 am
My god. Do the job properly. Don't go taking this advice and seeing if it works, it's your brakes for heavens sake.
They'll last the next 10 years if you do it right now. Yea yea, a bit more $$$ but don't listen to this advice and just pull a bodgey. It ain't worth it my friend.
They'll last the next 10 years if you do it right now. Yea yea, a bit more $$$ but don't listen to this advice and just pull a bodgey. It ain't worth it my friend.
Posted: June 10th, 2006, 1:57 am
make sure u clean the hub otherwise the rotor wont sit flat against it , and if u felt the vibration in the pedal / seat then good chances are that its coming from the rear if it was in the steering wheel / pedal then its the front