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I am wondering how on earth I am going to get to the timing belt cover bolts that are below the cam gears themselves. Am I going to have to remove all of the power steering and coolent lines etc. or is there a simpler way? Also, doesnt ANYONE make a steel head gasket? I have heard of Milenia ones being better.... What year would I ask for at the parts store? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Oh, and where can I buy the socket to fit the head bolts?
And where can I get a set of performance cams? if they dont make any, where can I order ZE cams? Is it worth it?
I have a 2.5 KLDE if that makes a difference

You shoul dbe able to get all the tools you need from autozone or Napa or Pep boys whichever you prefer.

Why not check out Crane Cams for the mazda's.

Why would you want 'steel' head gaskets ? I think Copper is much better and can be re-torqued like 5 times.

I want somthing that is aftermarket, I want to do this once and only once as it is proving to be a nightmare already!!

2.5mazda wrote:I want somthing that is aftermarket, I want to do this once and only once as it is proving to be a nightmare already!!

I would honestly go with copper dude.

What do I do about aftermarket head studs? Where can I get all of this stuff, its hard to find on the internet. Crane doesnt list cams on their site for this engine. Isnt there a site with parts for these engines?

Yeah theres all types of aftermarket support for our cars and all mazdas basically.

Type in headbolt for search and youll pull up more than you think

2.5mazda wrote:What do I do about aftermarket head studs? Where can I get all of this stuff, its hard to find on the internet. Crane doesnt list cams on their site for this engine. Isnt there a site with parts for these engines?

Just look on probetalk for a set of ze cams, i got mine from there for cheap, or you could go one step further and send your cams to Colt cams in B.C. and get the n/a grind (also watch for bulk buys on PT for colt cams)

What would that N/A cam grind cost? How long would it take? I want no more than 2 weeks of totl down time here, I just started today.

What is the best way to get the timing cover off? It looks like I will end up having to remove the motor mount....

http://www.coltcams.com

I cant answer your questions, but if you contact them just mention you have a set of KL cams and want the n/a grind, theyve done it many times for Probers

ok thanks
any info on a price range for those cams...... sounds very expensive... do they give it a nice rumble? I want aggressive cams..

2.5mazda wrote:What would that N/A cam grind cost? How long would it take? I want no more than 2 weeks of totl down time here, I just started today.

What is the best way to get the timing cover off? It looks like I will end up having to remove the motor mount....

You can send in a set of KLDE cams to Mike Seli on Probetalk.com I believe he charges about $400 + shipping to do one of several grinds he can do for you.

You if you're doing a full head removal, make it easy now and remove the passenger motor mount and the power steering hose. You can remove that motor mount with no support as long as the other three mounts are OK.

You can reuse the head bolts. I've never heard of used ones being out of spec before.

Also, unless you're doing a boosted engine with more than 12 lbs of boost, I'd just get the OEM head gaskets. The multi-layer-steel are better for N/A and low boost than copper gaskets. Less prone to leaking. They're only about $50-$60 each for well made ones like FelPro.

ok thanks

That is what I needed to know, weather or not to remove the motor mount or not.

I just broke an 11/16 deepwell, a half inch short extension and a 17MM deepwell. This motor mount is kicking my A$$!!

It was much easier working on my honda...

I have a feeling it will just take time and patience. I dont have an impact, so I am removing everything by hand.

So far I have the intake removed, distributor removed, valve covers off, rear cams out, cam retainers out, headers unbolted.

My next logical step seems to be to take the motor mount off and remove the timing cover. Then loosen the belt tensioner and take the other cams out. After that, remove the heads and prepare for re-assembly correct?
If there are any hidden steps let me know.

Do you have a 1/2 socket set? If not, you'll want a 24", 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2" socket set.

Also, you do plan on having the heads decked at a machine shop, right? No use doing head gaskets if you're just going to put wavy heads on them.

I was thinking about getting 30 or 40 thousandths taken off, and just building a nice flowing har running N/A motor with cams. If I decide to stick with the nitrous, I will just have them decked and throw it back together. I hear ya about the wavy heads though.