Body Kit molding

A forum for Appearance Discussions. (Exterior, Body Kits, & Interior)
Post Reply
User avatar
slimmyslim1420
Regular Member
Posts: 381
Joined: October 22nd, 2005, 12:22 pm
Location: Tennessee

Body Kit molding

Post by slimmyslim1420 »

I was wondering the best way to mold the sides and rear. I know fiberglass but should you use anything with it to help, or just fiberglass tape with resin over the top of it? And then bondo on the top?
1992 GS ZE swap 94 dash swap drilled and slotted rotors full ceramic pads CS SS clutch and brake lines KL-36 ecu zx-2 tokico struts eibach springs short shifter Tenzo exhaust Hi flow cat 2.5 in piping
93_4Banger
Regular Member
Posts: 675
Joined: September 15th, 2004, 2:01 am

Post by 93_4Banger »

kinda wondering the same thing.... someone has to know this??
User avatar
Joey's mx
Regular Member
Posts: 929
Joined: April 1st, 2004, 2:01 am
Location: Canada
Contact:

Post by Joey's mx »

well i used 100% figerglass, no bondo just spot putty!! It is a pain in the a-- though!! Alot more work then using bundo....but is stronger!!! Oh and i molded my sideskirts and roof scoop like this not either bumpers!!
User avatar
Yoda
Regular Member
Posts: 853
Joined: January 4th, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Earth, solar system, Milkyway, etc

Post by Yoda »

I use structural adhesive use in the trucking industry for bonding GRP/ FRP and steel or aluminum together. Something I picked up for the old school hot-rod guys at a show afew years ago. A lot stronger bond than using the more common bondo or polyseter resin techniques use by the sport compact guys.

http://www.proformproducts.com/fr/produ ... ategory=67
User avatar
slimmyslim1420
Regular Member
Posts: 381
Joined: October 22nd, 2005, 12:22 pm
Location: Tennessee

Post by slimmyslim1420 »

Can that adhesive also mold the parts in or does it just bond them together? The way I want it is with no lines or spaces between parts. That might have been what you were saying I don't know, but it seems like that stuff would be more of a liquid than a putty type mixture.
1992 GS ZE swap 94 dash swap drilled and slotted rotors full ceramic pads CS SS clutch and brake lines KL-36 ecu zx-2 tokico struts eibach springs short shifter Tenzo exhaust Hi flow cat 2.5 in piping
User avatar
Yoda
Regular Member
Posts: 853
Joined: January 4th, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Earth, solar system, Milkyway, etc

Post by Yoda »

This adhesive is thick and can be spread out like filler. You can sand it out but you will want to leave it so that you can spread a skim coat of a light weight filler to blend the surfaces together ando depending on the adhesive you may need a special filler to go over top of it.
neonkai
Junior Member
Posts: 13
Joined: February 21st, 2006, 3:54 pm
Location: Colorado, USA

Post by neonkai »

I was under the understanding that molding doesnt allow for much flex and has a tendancy to crack. Is this true for the method you guys are explaining?
3 days left
User avatar
fieromx3
Supporting Member
Posts: 2743
Joined: June 27th, 2005, 7:58 pm
Location: Guelph, ontario
Contact:

Post by fieromx3 »

if ur going to mold parts id seriously only do the sideskirts and if u get hood scoops or roof scoops :roll: but i would not reccomned doing the front and rear bumpers u never no when u might have to take it off or anything right? the only part i would say mold the rear is with that lip on the stock rear bumper but not the actual bumper its self...
93' MX-3 GS-ZE
14.4 @ 96.7
14.5 @ 97.2
User avatar
slimmyslim1420
Regular Member
Posts: 381
Joined: October 22nd, 2005, 12:22 pm
Location: Tennessee

Post by slimmyslim1420 »

Yea I only plan on doing the side skirts for now, and maybe the rear bumper later. I don't plan on doing the front bumper as I am going turbo and I'm sure I will have it off a lot.
1992 GS ZE swap 94 dash swap drilled and slotted rotors full ceramic pads CS SS clutch and brake lines KL-36 ecu zx-2 tokico struts eibach springs short shifter Tenzo exhaust Hi flow cat 2.5 in piping
hgallegos915
Senior Member
Posts: 6451
Joined: June 19th, 2004, 2:01 am
Location: El Paso Tx U.S
Contact:

Post by hgallegos915 »

I was gonna mold mine but im lazy :P and well it looks ugly when cracked...when done properly it looks awesome..if you use bondo it may crack..fiberglass is better.
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
User avatar
slimmyslim1420
Regular Member
Posts: 381
Joined: October 22nd, 2005, 12:22 pm
Location: Tennessee

Post by slimmyslim1420 »

Yoda wrote:This adhesive is thick and can be spread out like filler. You can sand it out but you will want to leave it so that you can spread a skim coat of a light weight filler to blend the surfaces together ando depending on the adhesive you may need a special filler to go over top of it.
Will the adhesive you left a link to require any special filler, or just typical bondo? Or someother lightweight filler. This step is just to blend and make the surfaces smooth right? Also the bottle they are selling how much could you get out of it? Like one side skirt, or two, or the two skirts and a rear bumper? What is a good estimate on that?
1992 GS ZE swap 94 dash swap drilled and slotted rotors full ceramic pads CS SS clutch and brake lines KL-36 ecu zx-2 tokico struts eibach springs short shifter Tenzo exhaust Hi flow cat 2.5 in piping
Post Reply

Return to “Appearance”