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My car burns about 2 quarts of oil every fillup. What type of oil should i use, i was thinking maybe quaker state high milage, and maybe get it 10W40 so that it it is thicker. Would that be wise or no?

My friend uses this in his MX-6 and he said it helped, but will 10w40 hurt these engines?

Mine has 186K miles on it, its a GS V6

I'm in the same boat... I just happily replace the oil, knowing the only other option is to replace the engine =(

10w40 will be fine, but you will loose some power cause the engine has to work harder to pump the oil around. High milage is also a good idea. It has parafin (wax) in the oil to help leaking seals.
Eventually the real fix is a new KL motor though.

PS, do not use Stop Leak. It will help with the leaks, but can also clog oil passages and thus starve a part of the motor from oil and blow the motor sooner.

Once I had an MX-3..It burned oil so bad---I ask my Dad what to do and this is what he said---take a can of gasoline..pour it on 1.8 V6----take a match, make a scratch, now you got your fiX...LOL

There's a product from Rislone that'll thicken up the oil and help with consumption a bit. Available at Walmart. Though in extreme cold, I don't know how good an idea that is. You should really be looking for a replacement engine.

thanks guys, ill try the quaker state and see what that does, in the meantime im going to be searching for a 2.5 engine...

"Those of you that are burning that much oil must not have any sort of annual clean air inspections in your area??"

That's exactly what I was thinking lol.
They should all just be glad they don't live in SLC. Any burn = Fail.

LOL, I live in KS, there is no such thing as Emissions testing.. I can drive open header, but as long as i have the muffler sticking at the back so it looks like i have an exhaust i dont get pulled over! LOL

LOL....in Canada we call that a ricer.

Twyztidmind wrote:LOL, I live in KS, there is no such thing as Emissions testing.. I can drive open header, but as long as i have the muffler sticking at the back so it looks like i have an exhaust i dont get pulled over! LOL

I wonder where the gun rack attaches to in the MX .... LOL

Boss Hogg Horns anyone??? WE'LL CALL IT RED BULL

jschrauwen wrote:

Twyztidmind wrote:LOL, I live in KS, there is no such thing as Emissions testing.. I can drive open header, but as long as i have the muffler sticking at the back so it looks like i have an exhaust i dont get pulled over! LOL

I wonder where the gun rack attaches to in the MX .... LOL

Your thinking of Texas man, but ya there are hicks down here but not so much in the wichita, and KC area, there are alot more tunners around here then you would think.

Dont make me come to canada b----, J/K LOL

Was just posting in reply to amore generic question about oil additives:

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=47306

I would try the Auto-RX clean, if you think that your consumption is related to rings or seals. If you just have a ton of mechnical wear it will not help.

A thicker oil may help. The PAO component of most high mileage oils may help seals.

neumann wrote:Was just posting in reply to amore generic question about oil additives:

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=47306

I would try the Auto-RX clean, if you think that your consumption is related to rings or seals. If you just have a ton of mechnical wear it will not help.

A thicker oil may help. The PAO component of most high mileage oils may help seals.

I wholeheartedly second the Auto-RX treatment. I have three vehicles with over 140K miles and none of them use oil. I have used ARX in all three and picked up some mileage/power improvements as well.
It's highly recommended by Oil analysis expert Terry Dyson http://bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html who probably understands more about oil than anybody I have ever read.

Also, about 10W40 - Please do not use a conventional 10W40 in your refined Japanese engine. This is an OBSOLETE PRODUCT. The range is too wide for a "dino" oil and it will thin out and shear over time.

If you want to use a 40 weight, get one of the excellent diesel HDEO oils like Delo 400 or Rotella. 15W40 will be fine I'd think in all climates except Antartica. I think Advance Auto is running a $5 a gallon Castrol Tection 15W40 special right now. Any of these oils will help curb a bit of consumption and possible clean your engine. I'd use ARX first, then start with the HDEO oil, and gradually thin back down to 5W30. Don't use synthetic - it's a waste if you are losing oil and the nature of synthetic will actually cause more leaks if you have leak-prone seals.