MX-3.com

I just got two kicker comp 12's and a 400 watt kicker KX amp. Got them all installed right and working. Then I decided to replace the door speakers with some 6.5s. After a week my door speakers quit producing sound. The subs still hit but no sound from the door. I had the CD player for a little over a year. I talked to one of the guys at the place I got the CD player and he said I blew the output chips in the CD player since the side of it was burning up even when the car was off. He said it was probably a short in the wire to the door speakers. I replaced all the door speaker wire with a 18 gauge wire and now Im working on getting a new CD player but the question is, do you guys think that was really the problem. I dont want to drop down the 3- 4 hundred dollars to get a new CD player just to kill it. Im thinking about going wit ha single or double din in dash DVD/CD/MP3 player.

Equipment:
2 kicker comp 12
1 kicker kx amp
2 sony explod 6.5 (broke after the subs so went cheap) 55 watt with 220 peak I think
1 Panasonic CQ-C3400/C300 50 x 4 watt RMS

P.S. A friend of mine said that since the speakers where a higher wattage that that might have done it but isnt that the same as running a 100 watt light bulb at 60 watts, it just isnt as bright?

It can happen. Just get a warranty, if you goto Bext buy or circuit city, get their protection plan, if u fry this one, its got a warranty

I got the protection plan on my subs...would have been smart to have gotten it a year ago on the CD player. Thanks for the input.

Steve-O

SO you get no sound out of your speakers but you get base still? Sounds like you fryed your audio out ports. This happed to my girl friends CD player when we changed out her speakers. How it happed i think was the speaker wire got grounded somehow and it fryed them. But my eclipse deck is strange enough to take it so i am happy i didnt fry mine =) To fix that ont hat CD player is almost the same cost as to buying a new one. If you take your deck out and just take it to a audio store they can test the audio out ports for you just to make sure that is the problem.

Buy some stock radio for $20 from a junkyard and try that one out for a while. If it crashes and burns, you just saved youself $300. If it keeps working, you know one thing that isn't wrong.

All you have to do is test the restance from the wiring behind the deck with a good ohm meter and you can see what the story is. If the speaker is a 4 ohm speaker and youre getting like a 1 ohm load then something is a miss. Id try that out.. You can also have the cd player out and wire up your old stock speaker and see if you can get any sound right from the deck.
Ive seen trouble with the panasonic ones in the past though.. rca outputs blowing and stuff so its not too uncommon for those.

Or if you have the time and you just dont care you can re-wire everything.

I rewired the door speakers, it didnt help. I blew the outputs on the headunit. Im still trying to find a cheap in-dash DVD player or a nice CD/MP3 player.

Steve-O

what i did was i took my deck out and i pluged it into my gf car. And i wired up each speaker one at a time to find out witch one it was. (i ended up cooking my front right audio port on my deck now.... so i just said screw it and wired it into the front left.) I could get it fixed but i am to lazy.

As a general rule always make sure speakears are rated at the same or higher wattage than pumped into them. (I prefer a bit of insurance by at least 20% ) Otherwise they will fry and sometimes the amp cooks also. Also Always match the impedance to your Amp. ie. 4ohm speaker(s) to 4ohm Amp. etc.....

POINTER: Measuring the DC resistance of a speaker with a DC OHM meter will not result in the correct reading. Speakers are rated in impedance measured and given in Ohm's. This value is the electrical equivalent load when AC current flows thought it and is not the same when DC current flows through it (the coil). So simply put, DC OHM's is not the same as AC OHM's.

However a DC OHM meter can be used to determine if the speaker has an open coil, which will read infinite resistance (speaker coil is shot)

DC= Direct current ....for example (battery current is dc)
AC=Alternating current .....for example (audio output produces alternating current)