1-3wire o2
Posted: October 31st, 2005, 12:07 pm
ok i know how do the wiring for the 3wire o2 sensor thanks to yoda but none of the post that i have found state what o2 sensor to get what will fit in a 92 1.6l?
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Posted: October 31st, 2005, 8:49 pm
just go to parts store and tell them what you need. they will tell you which one you should get for your car.
Posted: November 1st, 2005, 10:46 am
if you lived around here you wouldnt think that was a very good idea the people that work at our part stores are usually kids in highschool that only know what the computer tells them hell they screw it up when im getting direct replacement parts 
Posted: November 1st, 2005, 11:08 am
I have a 1 wire is there a way to convert to a 3 wire? Is there a benefit to 3 wires versus 1 wire?
Posted: November 1st, 2005, 1:19 pm
per yoda
Its not that hard to do. Of the 3 wires 2 will be the same color, usually black or white. The signal wire is usually blue or grey. The signal wire connects to the original O2 wire. The connect 1 of the 2 same colored wires for the heater to a good solid ground point on the chassis but not to close to a factory sensor ground otherwise you might have some feedback through the other sensors. The other wire goes to a 12V power source that is switched on with the ignition. I personally like to power the O2 heater through a relay directly with a fused connection to the battery and only use the switch 12V source as a trigger so as not to put an inductive load on a circuit where there shouldn't be one or over load an existing fuse. Going through a relay also give the heat circuit of the O2 a good solid 12V source power.
Converting to a 4 wire add only one more step. You still have 2 wire the same color for the heater plus 2 colored wire for the sensor. One wire will be the signal and the 4th wire is a the sensors ground reference. Do not connect the ground reference to the same spot as the heater ground. If possible wire the ground reference to the same spot as an existing factory sensor ground. Also the O2 will not work if the signal and sensor are reversed so carefully identify the wires with the documentation that came with the sensor before starting any work.
the only diffrence is a 3 wire has a heater in it that gives your ecu a signal faster than if it just ran rich till it got up to temp no real gains that i know of its not wideband or anything
Its not that hard to do. Of the 3 wires 2 will be the same color, usually black or white. The signal wire is usually blue or grey. The signal wire connects to the original O2 wire. The connect 1 of the 2 same colored wires for the heater to a good solid ground point on the chassis but not to close to a factory sensor ground otherwise you might have some feedback through the other sensors. The other wire goes to a 12V power source that is switched on with the ignition. I personally like to power the O2 heater through a relay directly with a fused connection to the battery and only use the switch 12V source as a trigger so as not to put an inductive load on a circuit where there shouldn't be one or over load an existing fuse. Going through a relay also give the heat circuit of the O2 a good solid 12V source power.
Converting to a 4 wire add only one more step. You still have 2 wire the same color for the heater plus 2 colored wire for the sensor. One wire will be the signal and the 4th wire is a the sensors ground reference. Do not connect the ground reference to the same spot as the heater ground. If possible wire the ground reference to the same spot as an existing factory sensor ground. Also the O2 will not work if the signal and sensor are reversed so carefully identify the wires with the documentation that came with the sensor before starting any work.
the only diffrence is a 3 wire has a heater in it that gives your ecu a signal faster than if it just ran rich till it got up to temp no real gains that i know of its not wideband or anything