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clear head lights

Posted: August 6th, 2005, 5:29 pm
by Jeff K
In case you think im not talking about the fog or w/e that you might think i am i wana get the outer lens to be totaly see thru is there one i can buy of dose any one think if i sand the plastic lens with fine sand paper and the wet sand it with even finer sand paper and ect... that i will get to be totaly clear?

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 12:43 am
by ovendenk
hey man. you should try doing a search for previous threads on this cause it's been talked about numerous times. i'm not gonna pretend to be an expert, but from what i remember reading it'll screw up the light pattern. the outer lens is funtional not just aesthetic. like i said there should be previos posts that would have a better explanation.

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 1:24 am
by Hoodzy
wet sand make sure to keep constantly wet and clean

start with 1000 work till 2000
then polish for like 3 hours with autosol metla polish or blue magic metal polish and u shoudl be good to go

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 2:37 am
by PATDIESEL
Hoods, no way it is anywhere near that simple. I've done it and it takes a LONG time to sand them to clear. Plus you need the lines in them to get the light to dispurse where it needs to be. The MX stock lamps just stink. Sanding them to clear will hurt more than it helps.
If you must sand them then start with 80 grit and sand most of the lines out then progressively work your way down in grit sandin for more time with each grit. Finally ending with 2000. Start wet sanding at about 400 grit. Be careful not to use any sort of power tool, you may think it will speed the process, but it will rub too fast and heat the lense. This will cause a heat spot that will not sand out and ruin the lense and all the hard work. Worst part is that you won't see the heat sopt till you are almost finished. Trust me I found out the hard way and had to start over.

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 11:56 am
by jschrauwen
Jeff, your a very voracious question asker. I've posted a very lengthy post in your thread in the V6 forum. Your questions in general are of a nature as ovendank has explained and I too have explained this in the V6 forum. After thorough research with this particular question you will find it literally a waste of time and counter-productive, ie - it won't improve anything for you. It would be in your best interest to do the research necessary, else you may find that a reputation may be attached and you may encounter very little help with future queries. Do yourself and the membership a favour and use the the search function. Deal with your most necessary issues first like idle, smoking, etc before considering modification ideas.

Re: clear head lights

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 1:07 pm
by neutral
Jeff K wrote:In case you think im not talking about the fog or w/e that you might think i am i wana get the outer lens to be totaly see thru is there one i can buy of dose any one think if i sand the plastic lens with fine sand paper and the wet sand it with even finer sand paper and ect... that i will get to be totaly clear?
Sounds like you're talking about wanting to take apart the lenses from the housings and sand the inside of the lens clear/smooth? Maybe to get that projector look? If so, Pat and ovendenk are right. Stock lights are not projector type, so ya need the defraction the inner surface of the stock lenses provide.

If you mean just getting clear lenses as in removing discoloration from sun damage, that's different. http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... 965#222965 Buncha other threads on this topic as well via the search page.

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 2:55 pm
by Jeff K
i did reeserch this alot with the search, but i never found any one trying to do the same thing. I'm making a mold to fit bi neon 90mm lights and i just wanted to know if i could just sand the stock lenses to get it clear and save money on buying one or having one made i know that leaving the stock lights in would just be ridiculous and look cheep i was just wondering if plastic can be sanded clear i wasnt sure if sanding would create to much heat and leave heat spots or anything elss.
Jeff, your a very voracious question asker. I've posted a very lengthy post in your thread in the V6 forum. Your questions in general are of a nature as ovendank has explained and I too have explained this in the V6 forum. After thorough research with this particular question you will find it literally a waste of time and counter-productive, ie - it won't improve anything for you. It would be in your best interest to do the research necessary, else you may find that a reputation may be attached and you may encounter very little help with future queries. Do yourself and the membership a favour and use the the search function. Deal with your most necessary issues first like idle, smoking, etc before considering modification ideas.

and the only time i post is after reaserching now. at first i just asked questions because it was faster but i relized it was a wast of everyones time. I understand what yourtrying to say and i thank you for your help on every thing its just before i start spending lots of mony on stuff i would like second and third forth ect... opinions. I'm sure you can understand that and sorry for any previous post that wasted your time. :D and sorry if i wasted your time.

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 3:29 pm
by PATDIESEL
Well now knowing what your intent is we are better able to answer your question. The best way to get clear lenses is to buy a set of the clear GTS covers and use them instead of the OEM lenses. I know that they are supposed to go over the stock lense, but they will work well enough as a replacement too. Do not try to sand them, you are wasting your time. It took me probably a month to get one clear set and then I found out that GTS covers work just as well. I wanted to kick my own a--.
Remember get the clear ones not the tinted ones...

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 3:37 pm
by Jeff K
ok thank you :D

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 3:40 pm
by neutral
Jeff K wrote:i did reeserch this alot with the search, but i never found any one trying to do the same thing. I'm making a mold to fit bi neon 90mm lights and i just wanted to know if i could just sand the stock lenses to get it clear and save money on buying one or having one made i know that leaving the stock lights in would just be ridiculous and look cheep i was just wondering if plastic can be sanded clear i wasnt sure if sanding would create to much heat and leave heat spots or anything elss...
Your background info and question was much easier to understand the way you restated it here. :2thumbsup:

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 3:44 pm
by Jeff K
yeah im sorry for that dose any one have a link to the site?

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 5:02 pm
by atlantamx3
Jeff K wrote:does any one have a link to the site?

Here are two links to the site:

http://www.thesite.com

&

http://www.the-site.com


:P

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 6:28 pm
by neutral

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 9:56 pm
by jschrauwen
Jeff K wrote:i did reeserch this alot with the search, but i never found any one trying to do the same thing. I'm making a mold to fit bi neon 90mm lights .
May I recommend you do a search using member "Taras" as a guide. You'll need to go track as far back as a year to find the chronological steps he used in modding his lights. You'll will also see from time to time that he refers to other sites like HID Planet and so on. At least a half a day to a full day would be required for Taras's threads and probably a couple of days getting up to relative speed on the related links that he has provided. Once done you'll come to realize that that the 90mm unit's you are referring to could be free form, projector, Xenon or BiXenon. Although mispelled do you also realize the cost you're looking at. Again go to a mentioned site called rallyelights (sp) and you'll find that a single BiXenon unit is approx $600.00usd, http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_m ... 0mmBiXenon , that's $2,400.00 for the light unit's alone and not accounting for all of the other peripheral costs and expenditures. I relly don't know how you're going to afford that. BTW, those listed on that site are not by any means the best or most expensive on the market. May I suggest that before you start cutting and sanding and molding that you spend the requisite amount of time and research.
neutral wrote:Your background info and question was much easier to understand the way you restated it here. :2thumbsup:
Agreed, I must say you are extremely ambitiuos, you remind me of me ...LOL Jeff, take the time to fill out all the details about your current ride in your signature section of your profile. It will net you better results when you pose future questions .... really!
PATDIESEL wrote:Well now knowing what your intent is we are better able to answer your question.
Agreed as well, take the time to go over your questions and by all means proof them if necessary. The less confusion, the better the responses.
PATDIESEL wrote: The best way to get clear lenses is to buy a set of the clear GTS covers and use them instead of the OEM lenses.
Agreed as well again. Keystone, a supplier out of Toronto has them and mine were purchased through a local (Canadian Tire) store for $69.05 cdn a pair. Part number which I believe is used on both sides of the border is GTO518C. GTO518S is the smoked variant. http://www.accessconnect.com/gts3.htm

Use a few of the links within this site to better familiarize youself with the concept of free form, projector, Xenon, BiXenon and HID. You may re-think your project on "bi neons" after the reading. http://www.rallylights.com/
http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/prod ... ducts.html
http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
http://www.eurolamps.com/
http://www.xenonking.com/?src=overture
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPo ... _Xenon.jsp
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProduct ... eLighting/
http://www.xpel.com/products/headlight.asp

Hope most of this helps.

Posted: August 7th, 2005, 11:47 pm
by PATDIESEL
There is no need ofr dual Bi-Xenon, the Bi-Xenon is a high and low beam in one unit. So either dual 90mm: one reflector (high beam) and one projector (low beam, Xenon or regular) or one Bi-Xenon projector. Dual Bi-Xenon is useless.