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Ok, my driver side cv boot is ripped open and now iv'e got a ticking sound everytime i turn right and apply gas. If i don't apply gas and turn right, it doesn't click...no matter how fast or slow i go.

Anyhow, i was told that i should replace the entire driver side axle and not just the CV Joint. So will i need to purchase three (3) different parts?

- Driver side CV Joint
- Driver side CV Boot
- Driver side Axle

or do i just need to buy the 'driver side axle' and it will come with the CV Joint and CV boot?

Thaks

<small>[ February 17, 2004, 03:28 PM: Message edited by: Quick Sliver ]</small>

buy a remanufactured axle. It comes complete wth new boots on both ends, repacked cv joints and new bearings.

IMHO it is pointless and a waste of time to just replace the boot. If your axle has a torn boot and clicks, chances are the actual spindle (or joint, same thing) is worn and loose and needs replacing anyways. Boot kits cost about $40-50 (usd) and installing them requires you to remove the axle anyways. So why not pay another $20-30 and get a full axle thats already done? I paid around $160 w/tax for both of my axles.

it comes with everything,
just go to the parts store and get one, than return your old one as a core. Go to autozone, they have lifetime warranty on the axles.
it's as easy as that

Will I have to get a 4-wheel alignment after the remanufactured axle has been installed?

you dont need an alignment if the axle is changed corectly.

just un-bolt the axle nut, and the lower ball joint and remove the axle.

DO NOT un-bolt the strut from the steering knuckle assembly.

OH, Get this! Im not getting any clicking now when i turn right...and that's when i apply gas throughout the turn too! Why would it be clicking for like a week and then all of a sudden stop?

Axle shafts are fortunately a quick and easy fix. Unfortunately dealers like to charge a fortune for some reason. The deal is this, you will get a core return credit of like 100$ on the old one, you don't get this benefit at the dealer. They usually keep you old parts for added profit and sell your core, not letting you know. Anyway, the axle comes with the inner and outer joints and boots. The OEM boot is like 20$ while a re-man axle complete is like 200$ minus the core return -100$ = 100$ fix.

If your joint is already clicking there is no point to bying a boot and a joint. Because that would cost like 300$, due to the fact that re-man joints are not sold. SO the best approach is the entire axle shaft cost 100$. and its a 45 min fix.

If you notice the clicking is very intermittent, this is quite common. Often times especially in the spring time sand, mud and water have a habbit of getting into the joint and keeping it quite occassionally (like sand in a bad tranny). Then the sand girnds away at the joint and eventually spins itself back out the hole in the boot, making noise again. This process is ongoing.

Keep your eye out often times RE-Man axle shafts carry a lifetime warranty, CAN tires do. I paid 75$ for my shaft complete liftime warranty on it and all. Obviously this was after my core credit of 100$ for the old one.

Also notice OEM mazda dealers won't just do the boot, because once the boot is ripped, if its been longer that 3 days its quite likely that sand has screwed the joint. Best be do it yourself or send it to a backyard garage.

later

UPDATE: Finally got the car into the mechanic. The front driver side stabilizer link is loose. Mechanic seems to think that it's the stabilizer link or something to do with the driver side strut and/or upper strut perch mount.

Part is on order and should arrive tommorow. I'll keep the updates comin'.