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I was wondering if anyone knew the vris cut off points for the millenia IM. Is it the same as the klze IM(straightneck) -which are 3600/6600 and 4600/6600?

Also - do the KL-36 points correspond with those cut-off points?
In other words am I correct to assume that the ATX and MTX ECU cut-off points are the same for the klze IM(straightneck)?

i think someone posted the numbers not too long ago... all i know is the setup with KL36 ecu and curved neck manifold, the VRIS points are too high... VRIS 2 doesn't kick until 5k

i don't really know/understand the vris but if you are running the kl01 cams (which top out torque @ 4800) and run the setup we are discussing wouldn't that be good to get a little extra 'go' from the vris at 5k?

Originally posted by mightym0use5:
I was wondering if anyone knew the vris cut off points for the millenia IM. Is it the same as the klze IM(straightneck) -which are 3600/6600 and 4600/6600?

Also - do the KL-36 points correspond with those cut-off points?
In other words am I correct to assume that the ATX and MTX ECU cut-off points are the same for the klze IM(straightneck)?

Don't know about the diff between KLZE and Millenia VRIS but there should be no difference between ATX and MTX. VRIS setpoints are dependent upon runner length.

Thank you - good replies. I will go ahead and get a switch box.

Also to answer the question of getting the extra boost with kl01 cams- The klze vris is design to cutt off at 6600 - that is when both vris shut off. vris #1 opens at 3800 and vris #2 opens at 4600. The vris sytem depends on your setup - some people have found that 3800/6800 and 4800/6800 works better, but some have found that they actually lose power. The only way to really find out is to dyno it with both different set-ups.

The KL-31 & the KL-36 have the wrong VRIS points for a millenia manifold. My car the power kicks hard at 4200rpm and I can feel it jump a little somewhere right above 5,000. The switching of the VRIS should be seamless. If you can feel it then it's not right. I don't know what the correct settings are though. Someday I'll put in MSD window switches go to the dyno and get it all set up correctly.

The way to tell whether it's worth spending any cash to improve on what you currently have:

Dyno with your current setup; then do three more runs with the VRIS solenoids disconnected. One with both valves closed, another #1 tied open & #2 closed, and the third with both open.

Then overlay the four torque curves. You'll see which configuration is doing best between what points by "riding the high curve". The change points are where the high curve dips below another and you want to change to the "new" high curve. You'll also see how much improvement would be available, and can then make a value-for-money judgement.