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1) Remove TB Coolant lines<BR>2) Connect them together with a 3/8" pipe union<BR>3) Put car back together<P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR> My old post from PT:<B><BR>I've had my coolant line to my Throttle body bypassed for over a year now. When I did it, some stupid people said that It wouldnt idle and that it should be for race only. <P>Well, they couldn't be more wrong.<P>My idle fluctuates from ~1100 down to stock [~600], most likely due to my little wax pellet thingy not functioning properly. Driving home the other day in ~85F heat, I popped the hood when I got in the garage. The manifold wasnt cool, but you could touch most of it [not the bottoms of the runners by my phenolic spacers] as long as you wanted without feeling discomfort. I have a CAI, spacers, removed weather stripping and splashguards and a bit of intake porting. When I ran 16.05 @ 85.7, I had just the bypassed coolant line, spacers, and removed airbox; bad launch and 35psi in street tires gave a bad 60ft @ 2.5x, but still not too shabby. <I>I have a 1.8L V6, not a 2.5L.</B></I> <I>Note that with those few mods, I'm close to many PGT times...</I><P>I was cruising Ebay today, and caught <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/e ... 21&r=0&t=0" TARGET=_blank>this item</A>, which made me think to post my findings as well. If they can get 6hp and 7 ft lbs of torque, I wouldnt be surprised if we got a few hp and foot lbs of torque. <P><BR>This mod cost me 58 cents, for a plastic 3/8" 90deg tee.<BR><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><I>Originally posted by geck0 </I><BR><B>I'm sure this has been posted before but not recently, I bypassed the coolant line that runs from the block to the T.B. then out of the TB into the block. This line is designed to heat up the air in the intake on cold days, but after the car is running it only adds a rediculous amount of heat to your intake manifold causing a much hotter air charge. By bypassing this line by plugging the TB nubs and looping a hose between the in and out of the block you get a slightly rougher start on cold days (Slightly and somewhat fixable with TB idle adjustments) AFTER THE MODIFICATION I DROVE TO TOLEDO OHIO FROM CINCINNATI OHIO 240 MILES EACH WAY WITH NO PROBLEMS. ON THE WAY HOME I STOPPED TO PEE AND JUST FOR SAFETY I LOOKED UNDER THE HOOD AFTER 2 HOURS OF DRIVING AT 80 MPH the INTAKE MANIFOLD WAS COOL ENOUGH TO LAY MY HAND ON IT AND IT WAS JUST WARM, THEN I TOUCH THE TB AND IT WAS ACTUALLY COOL I MEAN LIKE AIR TEMPATURE!<I> i RECOMEND THIS MOD HIGHLY</B></I><P><BR>p.s. the other benefit of this mod is that it makes taking your intake manifold on and off a hell of a lot easier without having to deal with those lines <HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><A HREF="http://www.probetalk.com/forums/showthr ... tb+coolant" TARGET=_blank>link 1</A><BR><A HREF="http://www.probetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ant+bypass" TARGET=_blank>link 2</A><p>[ August 15, 2002: Message edited by: David Coleman ]

cool thanks dave, the tb lines hook up to the egr too right? or just mine?

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lazzyie:<BR><STRONG>cool thanks dave, the tb lines hook up to the egr too right? or just mine?</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Yeah, from the coolant neck to the TB, from the TB to the EGR valve, then to the block.

hey guys...i want to try this mod on my 4cyl mx, but i still cant figure it out even after reading the links to the discussion on probetalk. ...just wondering if anyone has pics to do this?...and do i have to take the throttle body off to do this or can i just move the hoses (once i figure out which ones they are) into the right places etc...?<P>sorry, any help would be appreciated, email me in private at hotsiit@excite.com<BR>no need to clutter the board more, thanks in advance

They're coolant lines, about 3/8" ID. You'll have to remove them to remove your TB. Just start pulling lines off that connect to your TB and then connect the two that wet stuff come out of.

*** immediate response if possible***<P>I just completed this mod and my idle fluctuates to the point of stalling. I tried to compensate with idle adjustment to it does not cure the prob. I was sitting at a light holding my rpms at 1k when the check engine light came on. As soon as i drove it went off and hasnt repeated the trend. Anyone have any ideas on what to do here. I'm going to check the codes as we speak. A quick response would be appreciated

ok i have completed this mod and the tb does remain noticibly cooler. So cool in fact that i was able to work on the idle problem i'm having after a 45 mins drive. My idle runs about 1500k then drops down to <600. Idle is VERY rough almost to the point of stalling, however i believe that is due to the fact that i didnt replace the gasket (at least i hope) [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]

The coolant is sent to the throttle body to maintain the cold idle speed. there is a wax ball inside.<P>when the coolant is cold the wax is small and it lets more air bypass the throttle(increasing the idle). When the coolant gets hot it makes the wax expand, stopping the air by passing the throttle blade(lowering the idle).<P>I have not done this mod my self yet, but I will soon, just to see what happens.<P>I would suspect a very poor idle.

BLITZ make a gizmo thats sorts out idle problems - its meant for highly tuned jap cars but sure we could use it for our little V6's too - its called an idle stabilizer or something very similar - and its always a good toy to show off with