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Does anyone know the physical differences between the GTR and the GTX engines besides horse power? Thanks.....

Nothing.<p>If you had done a search, you would have known that the Turbo is bigger on the GTR, Injector too. And that's about it.<p>A quick polishe on a GT-X will bring the engine to the same power of a GT-R.. So don't stick in your ming you need a GT-R all the way..<p>Better yet, mod a BPD engine, a NA engine into turbo.. you'll get better compression, already forged pieces (up to 30psi internal!) and the engine will flow better at high RPM!

I thought the gtr had forged pistons and crank? Maybe not, of course I don't know too much about the bpt's anyways.

Some misinformation here.<p>All B series motors come with a forged crank, cast pistons. Same rods in both. Bigger turbo on the GTR. The cylinder head has a better valve train, including sodium filled valves. You will have to do a little more than a polish to match performance. Personally, buying a BP block from any of the cars that came with that motor is the best bet, use a NB cylinder head from the Miata and turbo that combo. Much better gains and possibly less cost.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by maldo:
Some misinformation here.
<hr></blockquote><p>
My post wasn't really information, more like brain fart/question.
:p

Nah, me, misinformation..<p>Well, BLT, from barelylegal transplants did P&P, and acheive a similar gain compare to the GTR.<p>Well, buying a engine for 2000$, P&P 1000$, better than paying a GTR 4000$..I would do the GT-X

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Manach:
Nah, me, misinformation..<p>Well, BLT, from barelylegal transplants did P&P, and acheive a similar gain compare to the GTR.<p>Well, buying a engine for 2000$, P&P 1000$, better than paying a GTR 4000$..I would do the GT-X <hr></blockquote>
better yet
bp engine 900 cnd + pp head 1000+ custom turbo kit 1000-6000 = 250 hp to 400hp

nah if you do the BP the head could prolly benefit from a port and polish but not nearly as much as a gtr/gtx.. but yeah it could be considred a cheaper route especially when you bring shipping into the equation.

I beg to differ. You will have to spend more on a GTX/GTR head to achieve the same goals as the BP head found on the miata or protege. The head from the '99+ miata (known as the NB head) is the best flowing design Mazda has come up with. A light p&p on a GTR engine will only bring you to the NB head standard. The NB head also has solid lifters, stiffer valvesprings and a better design overall.<p>The best design is to use a BP shortblock, add a NB head and build a manifold and sheetmetal intake. Even with the an equal turbo and intake manifold on the GTR and hybrid motor would result in the hybrid coming out on top.

GTR motor:<p>-5-stage oil cooler (gtx has 2 stage, as do all older BP's)
-Sodium impregnated valves
-tuned intake manifold runners
-agressive hollow camhaft
-IHI VJ23 ball bearing turbo (gtx has ihi vj20 which is non-ball bearing and much smaller)
-larger exhaust manifold ports<p>On top of this stuff (which I am certain of) it might have a balanced crank, and forged rods and some kind of reinforced cylinder sleeves. I have heard it has larger valves, but i haven't confirmed it. <p>Some aussie site has all the differences listed. I'm on my home computer, so all my links on my college comp are on that HD or I'd post them.<p>
I have a GTR in my basement Going to put it in my 93 GS to show it can be done, and done easy

There is no doubt that the GTR has many good points, especially when compared on paper to other BP motor as far as internal/external parts go. The fact remains that the NB head flows much more, more than the stock GTX head (which even a NA BP head flows more). I wouldn't spend my money on it though as I can build a better motor from scatch instead of spending the cash on the motor that is going to be ripped apart and upgraded anyways.

yeah those pics that you posted of the intake ports were just disturbing...