Dark_Rider's Worklog- 1992 MX3 BP Swap Journal (Swap done!!)

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Update:

Got back to feeling better today, and with my mom/mom's boyfriend feeling better, I went to their place again (Had not worked on the car in a while now..)

But I was able to get everything pretty much done. Clutch lines still need bled (ugh..), but everything is bolted in. Gear oil, antifreeze, and engine oil are in, as well as everything looks right.

BUUUT:

I go to crank it.. nothing. Starter engages and tries to turn it over, but it will not start.

I am getting fuel pressure, but did not check spark yet. Fuel injector wiring seems good too (traced yellow/black wire to ECU's INJ #2, 4 connector and it was good, as well as the straight yellow wire to ECU INJ #1, 3), and the wires go to their correct Injectors.

I am having these codes though:

Code 9 - Water Thermosensor
Code 10- Intake air thermosensor
Code 41- VICS

What do you make of these? Would these cause the car to not crank over? And what is the intake air thermosensor? is that the same as the pressure regulator next to the VICS? I don't think it is (that would be if i'm correct FPR and that's a different code if I'm correct)

[Dark_Rider2k3]

well it's been a while since I updated but the swap is officially done!

The codes, first off, I cleared. Water thermosensor connector was loose, and the VICS had been improperly wired (was not going to main relay).

Also got the air thermosensor to work but don't ask me how hahahahaha.

also the reason the car would not crank over was a stuck FPR solenoid.

But the reason I'm updating about it running today is because for the past week I had been sourcing a speedometer gear for the G series transmission after the one that came with the transmission broke. I ended up making a plate that would raise the F series gear up a bit and allow it to work.. though this is only a temporary solution while I wait for the correct speedo gear to arrive (got one off club protege it's just not here yet).

It's running like a champ now, though I am monitoring what could be an oil leak. I tightened down the valve cover a bit as it looked like it was coming from the VC gasket, but I want to make 100% sure that was it.

Also did the following:

- Bought Dynomax super turbo muffler (2.5 in, 2.5 out)
- got Oil Pressure, wideband AFR, and voltmeter (not turbo'ed at the moment so voltmeter works fine)
- New center caps for my rims

Tomorrow I am going to clean the car out, and hopefully give it a good vac job.

This Thursday the car will go in to get some exhaust work done. Going to get 2.25 inch piping for my cat-back, as well as a good sized resonator (not sure what size on it yet). This will lead to my Dynomax muffler, which all should help quiet the car down (it's waaaaaaay to loud and obnoxious right now).

After that, on Friday I am going to schedule it in for my inspection with my family friend. Hopefully Monday it will be good to go!!


Pics and videos to come soon!!!

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Just a small update.

Wasn't feeling good this morning so am home. Got the car, though, over to get an estimate for the exhaust work. Saturday it goes in and it's costing me about $250. This includes:

-installing Dynomax SuperTurbo Muffler
-Resonator (I think it's an 18 inch I'm installing)
-2.25 inch piping from cat-back.


I then was able to get it over to our family friend's for state inspection. He couldn't do the visual inspection but he did the emissions. I noticed when we were doing it that my muffler was cold. Upon looking underneath, I saw that where the piping meets the muffler it had rusted completely off... probably that past winter. So it's a really good thing I'm getting the exhaust work done.

We still ran it through emissions and it passed with flying colors. 0.02 CO% at idle and only like 0.20 CO% at 2500 RPM.

Still waiting for the proper speedo gear to arrive. It was shipped out yesterday and he said it's either going to be Friday or Saturday I get it.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Okay lots of updates:

1. Ditched the SuperTurbo when I found out how complicated the fitament was. But I got a good deal on a custom 2-inch cat-back with 2.25 inch muffler. Sound great!!!

2. Have a loose wire on the starter that will be solved soon. Also have to replace the rear struts.

3. This Thursday the car goes in for the visual inspection since we couldn't do both the visual/emissions that same day.


I also finally got the pictures so here are my swap pictures!!!!!

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Moooore pics!

[Dark_Rider2k3]

And the last set!

[Dark_Rider2k3]

It seems like once you get one thing fixed, others arise.

First, I'm roughly 700 miles into the new motor. Good news is that it purrs and is VERY quiet. It has a smooth idle, though due to me not using the 4-wire o2 It causes my RPM's to idle a bit high on cold starts (I'm using the BPVR ecu which uses a 4-wire o2).

The bad news is that I have a head gasket leak. It's leaking out of the back, but thankfully there is no milkshake oil so the coolant is not leaking. The oil is, however, leaking into the coolant (escaping the higher pressure into the coolant). I can verify it's a head gasket leak as when I put the car up on the jack, you could clearly see oil everywhere on the back, and around where the head meets the block. And when running it leaks out. It does not leak out when off.

This could also be caused by me re-using the head bolts. I have ARP head studs in, as well as a new head gasket so I'm hoping this week to rip the head off at the garage and put the new gasket on. Just waiting for my friend to finish up this old CJ Jeep that is taking up the space I'm putting my car .

I also have the following issues to sort out:

-Strut mounts (rear)
-Sway bars
-End links
-Brake lines

The brake lines are not TOO bad, but one is starting to leak... so I'm going to upgrade to Stainless steel lines.

I also added in the front strut bar. I will add the rear in most likely once the weather gets good. I have to cut out the interior to get it in.

My oil pressure gague is also being sent back. The gauge won't allow me to choose colors and sometimes doesn't even light up, so they are going to warranty it and send me a new one.

Not much else to report though. Just small things to do!

[RedBPmx3]

hey buddy, you responded to my get this bp running right thread.

Can you send me pics of the new gen's vac/vics/fpr area as you got the motor??

Im trying to find a 94+ rs dohc vics/vac/egr diagram to route things the way they were ORIGINALLY before teh swappers got at the motor..


OR also trying to find a new gen BP vac/egr/vics diagram aswell.

From looking at your pics, it gives me a ROUGH idea of where the solenoids i pulled were meant to go.. and how they were meant to be routed via vac... but the pictures make me want more detailed shots.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

I'll get you pics tomorrow, but here is one from the manual:

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Some updates:

1. Got the leak sorted out. It was actually a crack in the head . I accidentally cross-threaded the center bolt that holds the fuel rail down, and the stress caused a crack. Though the good news is some good epoxy fixed that up, and now there is no more leaks! (and it runs stronger!!)

2. Got the cars inspection finished. It needed a few wear-and-tear items to pass:

- Rear strut mounts
- Ball joints
- End links

3. Oil pressure gauge stopped working. GlowShift RMA'ed the bad gauge fast!! (In only a week I had a new gauge!)

4. Got Altezza Tail lights for Christmas, and will be getting Projectors soon!


Now, I have to check my e-brake cables as it doesn't seem to engage all the way. I have all new rear brakes (only a year old), but when I pull up the e-brake all the way, it doesn't fully stop the car (the car still wants to roll down the hill I live on). I also have to check the battery as I think I have a parasitic load on my battery (the car will read a little over 14 volts when driving, 12 volts after I park and car is off, but when I go into the car in the morning it will be down to almost 11 volts).

After that, I'll be doing some touch-up on my exterior (my hood got messed up in a storm, and I need to bend down the upper radiator bar as it's still not right.. figured out that's why my hood didn't align properly with the bumper). Then I'll prepare for megasquirt!

[AaronTietje]

Nice work. I once stripped out one of my timing belt tentioner bolts on my old ZE and fixed it with epoxey. It worked great and never worked loose.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Nice work. I once stripped out one of my timing belt tentioner bolts on my old ZE and fixed it with epoxey. It worked great and never worked loose.

Yeah my old friend has been using it for years (been working on cars in the shop since he was 14.. he's now in his mid to late 50's) and loves the stuff. It saved me from buying a new head!!!!

[NANO91]

Have a question Dark_ Rider? I am doing the same exact swap as you same engine everything. I am looking at the wiring compared to my sohc to bp way different now can i use a bp harness from an escort? and one more question do u have a different distruiburator? mine doesnt have a connection to the power?

[Dark_Rider2k3]

the wiring from a sohc 4 cylinder shouldn't be that much different unless you are going from ATX to MTX. But you can use the BP's wiring harness if you want.

Also i am using the BP's distributor. The mx3 distributor will not work with it. Though idk what you mean by, "no connection to the poewr?"

[NANO91]

Yea man, I actually used the 1st gen bp dist., and using egt manifold did you use bottom jdm manifols and the top egt ot the whole egt?