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Swapped out the KL02 VAF for the JE50 from the Bucket, No more low end miss but I have higher than normal idle. Time to get rid of the stock intake tube....

So, Friday night I decided to take the car to the track. Was able to run 3 times in between rounds.

KLDE, Mx-3 Trans, ACT stg2 clutch, k8 flywheel, k8 Intake manifold, Ebay headers, no cat, je50 VAF and K8 ECU. Using NEW bfgoodrich touring tires. They were horrible for traction but that's all I had to work with.

First run:
15.8 91 mph 35psi tires

Second Run:
15.1 94 mph 26psi tires

Third run:
15.0 95 mph 26psi tires

I REALLY wanted to break into the 14's but I ran out of time.

Today Im driving the car and it dies at the light. Happened to have the KL02 VAF in the car. Swapped it over and it fired back up. BUT, now I have code 10. Never had this code as far as i remember....fun fun.

that is pretty cool, i love track updates!!

Is there anything your changing or adding to get in the 14's like suspension wise? or are you just on a drag strip......

kulluminati777 wrote:that is pretty cool, i love track updates!!

Is there anything your changing or adding to get in the 14's like suspension wise? or are you just on a drag strip......

Tire pressure and launch RPM.


I need a real intake, not just a filter on the end of the VAF. I also need a klde ECU. Those 2 things and some sticky tires, 14's should be easy.

maybe some harder engine mounts and traction bars to eliminate wheel skip should help as well

The proper ecu/vaf combo will definately help and I believe 2500-3000rpm is the ideal launch range so that you dont get too much spin off the line. Depending on what size rims you are running, dropping to smaller lighter rims and tires can help and you could even go down to about 20psi for the front tires and and up the pressure to 40-45psi for the rears to minimize drag. Just experiment and see what works best for you.

Redline322 wrote:The proper ecu/vaf combo will definately help and I believe 2500-3000rpm is the ideal launch range so that you dont get too much spin off the line. Depending on what size rims you are running, dropping to smaller lighter rims and tires can help and you could even go down to about 20psi for the front tires and and up the pressure to 40-45psi for the rears to minimize drag. Just experiment and see what works best for you.

I have some OEM Acura "Fat 5" wheels on the front with NEW BfG 185/60/15 and 16" Rota circuit 8's in the rear. The rears were at 38-40 psi. The 15.0 pass was the perfect launch, just enough wheel spin to keep the rpms gaining with the speed. I do need some front end bushings and a trac bar would probably help a ton.

I'm going back the first weekend in October for another event. Hopefully I wont be swamped with the race car and I can find some time to run my car a couple times. The car gets a lot of attention. Most people here have never seen one on the track....or don't know what it is. I have had people ask if it was a : CRX, MR2, 200SX, Zx2 and Civic. I even had someone ask me if it was a Rx7...."What?!" I have also been asked if it was turboed and/or rotary.


********EDIT- Tires are goodyear eagle's not Bfg.

15.0 pass
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7peKwj6S ... e=youtu.be

The 15.8 pass was horrible quality and the 15.1 wasn't recorded.

Tons of new things...couple picture:

That is how I bought the car...notice the washers. Great to hold lower ball joints in. I ended up doing the front strut mounts too.


New Wires, intake configuration, re-routed alternator belt(compressor locked up)


Budget bang.


CorkSport Stainless Clutch line


CorkSport Radiator Cap


Current engine bay


I still have a ton of work to do under there. It still looks chaotic and I'd love to clean it up a little....a lot.

I also had to do brakes all the way around on the 3. The front brakes went easy. The rears were a different story. The caliper bolt on the passenger rear had not been tightened and the guide pin had never been lubricated. It was seized and I was unable to get the caliper off. After many hammer blows, I was able to dislodge the caliper. Here is what the bolts looks like, next to a replacement:





Building engine harness'

your car looks so sexy from the outside. That red is nice and the rims are great! not very many people have "meaty" tires these days. I think the MX only looks good with fat tires whether it be 16 or 15s

what a cool garage? do u work there? that type R with the JDM front is HAWT!!!!! I wouldnt mind having that car if 1000 other "dubstep stance" dudes didnt have one

I agree, damn nice wheels !!

And respect for the wiring harness creation... that's something that frightens me

kulluminati777 wrote:your car looks so sexy from the outside. That red is nice and the rims are great! not very many people have "meaty" tires these days. I think the MX only looks good with fat tires whether it be 16 or 15s

what a cool garage? do u work there? that type R with the JDM front is HAWT!!!!! I wouldnt mind having that car if 1000 other "dubstep stance" dudes didnt have one

Thanks! Im having the body work done next weekend. I'm thinking a dark silver/gunmetal-ish. The red looks great in photos!
The tires are new but standard size, 205/50/15. They will be coming off soon for some 225/45/15

As far as the shop goes, its my business. Atx Auto Repair, formerly Inline Power Werks. https://www.facebook.com/inlinepowerwerks?ref=hl

That is actually a REAL american Integra Type R, with a JDM front end, we installed and JDM wheels. Tons of nice stuff on that car...I just finished the 3 inch exhaust a couple days ago. Its got a Tubronetics ac/ps kit on it, with 1000cc injectors and e85. Hoping to make around 300-325whp.

And you wont see any "Stance/HellaGay" crap in my shop. I build functional race cars, not impractical cars that are so low to the ground with such little contact from the tire that you cant even drive it.....stupid jdm fan boy bull-ish.

WhiteFinish wrote:I agree, damn nice wheels !!

And respect for the wiring harness creation... that's something that frightens me

Thanks!

Most of the older Civic/Crx's came with a DPFI system. 2 injectors, 2 Hall Sensors. To make any kind of power, or swap to anything better, it requires you have 4 injectors and 3 hall sensors. It can be a huge pain, but most of the time, its profitable.

New parts!!!


My old tranny mount. Put an aftermarket mount on it til I can get my mounts back form King6Fab.


With the new clears on and the red markers up front....Its growing on me.


And then the booster Type R. its dirty under there...


Still waiting on the rear trans mount and the BRAND NEW OEM Mazda knock sensor that I got for $67!!