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This is my first Mazda... It would be fine IF there was no trans issue...

My 1992 V6 5-speed Chevy Camaro was one of the better cars I have owned.

My cars:

1978 Camaro with a 350 V8 - Great car.
1972 Pontiac Formula Firebird with a built 455 H.O. Wrecked it.
1967 Ford Fairlane 500 with a F.I. 5.0 from a '93 GT Mustang and AOD tranny. OMG! It was fun.
1987 Dodge Shelby Charger GLHS #609 5-speed - So fast.
1995 Nissan Sentra - My Stereo!
1979 Nissan 280zx 5-speed
1982 Nissan 280zx Auto
1982 Nissan 280zxt 5-speed
1984 Mustang 4cyl 5-speed
1992 Chevy Camaro Anniversary Heritage Edition V6 3.1L 5-speed White with Red stripes.
1992 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with 4" lift on 31" tires 4.0L H.O.
1988 Ford Ranger with a 1985 Ford T-Bird Turbo Coupe engine and a 5-speed at 15psi of boost with 3.73:1 gear.
1993 Dodge Shadow ES 5-speed
1982 Camaro Berlinetta... CRAP!!

I think thats all other than this MX-3

Geez, why so many cars?

thxone wrote: I have a 1992 1.6L SOHC with the ATX.

What is my engine designation or series code? Fill in the blank "_______"

If I were to look at a "1992 1.6L SOHC MX-3 with a 5-speed" What would that transaxles exact code be? "_______"

I have a 1992 1.6L SOHC with the ATX.

What is my engine designation or series code? Fill in the blank "B6"

If I were to look at a "1992 1.6L SOHC MX-3 with a 5-speed" What would that transaxles exact code be? "F25M-R"

Not A pro at this so Could Ryan, Daninski, Dali, Solo, one of you guys confirm?

Dragon1212 wrote:

thxone wrote: I have a 1992 1.6L SOHC with the ATX.

What is my engine designation or series code? Fill in the blank "_______"

If I were to look at a "1992 1.6L SOHC MX-3 with a 5-speed" What would that transaxles exact code be? "_______"

I have a 1992 1.6L SOHC with the ATX.

What is my engine designation or series code? Fill in the blank "B6"

If I were to look at a "1992 1.6L SOHC MX-3 with a 5-speed" What would that transaxles exact code be? "F25M-R"

Not A pro at this so Could Ryan, Daninski, Dali, Solo, one of you guys confirm?

My friend... this is exactly the kind of answers I was looking for... I too would like confirmation on the tranny please

Also, this has to be electrical... my trans fluid is about as perfect as it gets. When I turn the car off and then start it, the car will shift fine with no flashing HOLD light right until I hit third. Then the tranny slips, the engine revs a little and it's back to second gear. If I stop at a light, put it in park, shut the car off and restart right away... the car is fine right up to third gear again. I was looking at a Haynes manual for a 323 and Protoge` and saw a pic of the underside of what must be my transaxle and I saw electrical connections inside there... there is a solenoid that controls shifts right?? If so, is it right there under the pan? If so, I can change that right? Mind you when I start the car and no hold light is on, the car shifts smooth but quick as it should from first to second. As soon as the light comes on, even 1st to second shifts are longer and not as smooth... gotta be electrical right?

F5M-R and F25M-R are identical in operation, aside from the 2 having a synchronized reverse gear.

Don't get your panties in a knot, you're not asking such a simple question.

The transmission mated to a BP engine bolts to a B6, but it is a G25M-R box, the same designation as all K8 and KL boxes, which won't bolt to your engine. The designation in that respect relates ONLY to the internals, and not the case.

What you want to know is that ANY B3, B5, B6, BP box mates to your engine, be it F(2)5M-R or G(2)5M-R, and will be identical in operation. The gearing is different depening on what engine you pick, but you can't tell thet from the code system we use. If you get an F box, you only need the DS axle, if you get a G box (stronger) you need both axles and the halfshaft.

Get a B3/5/6 series engine box from a 323/protege/MX-3 RS. Get the MTX DS axle with it. With the linakge and other other stuff.

Don't give a rats a-- if its F5M-R or 25M-R. If you get it out of a 92-96 pro/323/MX-3 RS, you CANNOT go wrong.

The only thing, is I think you need MX-3 shift linkage. The distance between the shifter and the transmission may be different between the chassis', and the MX-3 is unique.


The auto trans is controlled by a complex hydraulic system called a valve body. This is a picture of what it looks like inside:



Unless you are a certified tech with training in ATX's, do not crack your transmission.

You CAN retrieve ATX trouble codes if you check the online manuals. Please do this before you belch any more theories.

Thank you Ryan... Between the last two responses I think I have the majority of the info I need to begin my search. However... these "wires" that need to be run for the MTX, what are they for? I could care less about a neutral safety switch, I am smart enough to push the pedal as I start the car but if that is one of the connections, is it needed for the car to run properly... or is it so I don't start the car in gear and run someone over and can be omitted?

Just a checklist... feel free to add to it to help me out...

Things for the swap:

1. Transaxle
2. Drivers side axle
3. Spedo cable from a non electrical spedo
4. Clutch/Brake pedal assembly
5. Slave Cylinder
6. An MX-3 Shifter and Linkage

Do you know of a link to these "online manuals"?

www.mx-3.com
left hand column.

"online manuals"

MM, your car currently has a cable speedometer, so if your ATX speed sensor doesn't plug into the MTX, you'll need a 92/93 MTX speed sensor. May not need it though, I'm not sure.

Don't forget the master cylinder.

You need the neutral switch:
1 it kills cruise when you hit the clutch
2 it changes the idle under some conditions
3 you can wire it into the starter interlock switch so you can start it in gear, if the trans is in neutral.

you will run wires from the Park/neutral switch on the ATX connector to the starter interlock switch on the pedal. This is so you can start the car at all. Optionally, you can wire the neutral switch in parallel, to make point 3 above.

you need to run the wires from the reverse switch on the trans to the reverse switch pins on the ATX connector.

Ryan wrote: The auto trans is controlled by a complex hydraulic system called a valve body. This is a picture of what it looks like inside:

the filters gonna get a workout

HOLY f---ing MOTHER OF GOD!

my brain Hurts from all the Cut outs! holy Hell...

don't crack that baby indeed you'll die from the sight of that many paths!
I'm thinking Puzzle from hell...

It's not that bad... once you disconnect the electronics and then unbolt the valve body, it drops right out. My buddy and I did this on the '78 Camaro when we did the shift improver kit and also on his '87 Monte Carlo SS for the same thing. I don't remember if there were electronics in those but the theory is exactly the same. I am not intimidated about dropping it out and replacing it if that would fix the tranny problem. I can certainly apply the knowledge from those cars and use it on this one. An automatic transmission does the same thing be it a front wheel drive or rear wheel drive, electronic or mechanical.

There are electronic solenoids in our ATX valve bodies (Electronically Controlled) as apposed to the older style as mentioned above (Mechanically Controlled). I like to work from the cheapest solution up to the more costly. This being said, is it cheaper to replace the valve body which has all of the electronic solenoids connected to it or swap the tranny for a manual drive. I would have to say replacing the valve body. Now, the trick is finding a place that sells these valve bodies, which I may have done... I will be contacting them soon to see if they have them and what the prices are. I will also be checking scrap yards for these cars that have this automatic setup and find out how much one of those valve bodies would cost.

We are looking at like an hours worth of work with the right tools including the draining of the old fluid. I don't think my bands, clutches or gears are messed up... my theory is that in fact it is an electrical issue. Whatever is controlling 2nd to 3rd shifts is not engaging correctly or fully. Since it is an electronically controlled ATX and not mechanical then it has to be an electrical issue. Why not replace the whole valve body, solenoids and all? This will also give me another chance to replace the filter, fluid and gasket. The only issue for me is cost... as long as it is cheaper I will always go that route. Has anyone here done this, just replace the valve body?

One last thing... my ATX, is it an F4A-EL?

thxone wrote:It's not that bad... once you disconnect the electronics and then unbolt the valve body, it drops right out. My buddy and I did this on the '78 Camaro when we did the shift improver kit and also on his '87 Monte Carlo SS for the same thing. I don't remember if there were electronics in those but the theory is exactly the same. I am not intimidated about dropping it out and replacing it if that would fix the tranny problem. I can certainly apply the knowledge from those cars and use it on this one. An automatic transmission does the same thing be it a front wheel drive or rear wheel drive, electronic or mechanical.

There are electronic solenoids in our ATX valve bodies (Electronically Controlled) as apposed to the older style as mentioned above (Mechanically Controlled). I like to work from the cheapest solution up to the more costly. This being said, is it cheaper to replace the valve body which has all of the electronic solenoids connected to it or swap the tranny for a manual drive. I would have to say replacing the valve body. Now, the trick is finding a place that sells these valve bodies, which I may have done... I will be contacting them soon to see if they have them and what the prices are. I will also be checking scrap yards for these cars that have this automatic setup and find out how much one of those valve bodies would cost.

We are looking at like an hours worth of work with the right tools including the draining of the old fluid. I don't think my bands, clutches or gears are messed up... my theory is that in fact it is an electrical issue. Whatever is controlling 2nd to 3rd shifts is not engaging correctly or fully. Since it is an electronically controlled ATX and not mechanical then it has to be an electrical issue. Why not replace the whole valve body, solenoids and all? This will also give me another chance to replace the filter, fluid and gasket. The only issue for me is cost... as long as it is cheaper I will always go that route. Has anyone here done this, just replace the valve body?

One last thing... my ATX, is it an F4A-EL?

Your runnin a 4 Cyl i'd say you should just convert it, Better proformance = More Fun!
Not to mention no Computer or electrically controlled crap,,

That's just it... it's just a get back and forth to work car with a 4cyl... If I wanted fun then I would get another 280zxt I am not looking to put money into this car... it's decent for what it is and when running right gets good mpg's. Now if I could find a V6 model with a 5-speed then that's a different story because I believe this car would make a great platform for a sound system what with its hatch area and slanted back glass... the cargo area is like a wave guide and would certainly enhance the bass output like my '92 Camaro did.

thxone wrote:That's just it... it's just a get back and forth to work car with a 4cyl... If I wanted fun then I would get another 280zxt I am not looking to put money into this car... it's decent for what it is and when running right gets good mpg's. Now if I could find a V6 model with a 5-speed then that's a different story because I believe this car would make a great platform for a sound system what with its hatch area and slanted back glass... the cargo area is like a wave guide and would certainly enhance the bass output like my '92 Camaro did.

Better Proformance to drive around retards on daily commute?
More reliable? (My family has never had a stick shift die on them, had 4 autos fail 3 in one car, one in another [not sure its worth replacing])

At the end of the day, your ATX still sucks. It will die for good in no time, they are notoriously bad. Who is to say the valve body from the JY isn't suffering from the same problem as you? You want to junk it, I'm sure other less mechanically inclined people already have junked their cars from a dying transmission.

But its your car, your call. At the least, install a new cooler. The stock one is worthless.

At the end of the day, your ATX still sucks. It will die for good in no time, they are notoriously bad. Who is to say the valve body from the JY isn't suffering from the same problem as you? You want to junk it, I'm sure other less mechanically inclined people already have junked their cars from a dying transmission.

But its your car, your call. At the least, install a new cooler. The stock one is worthless.