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marcdh wrote:

hppwdn wrote:street tires (20psi)

Congrats on the time, something to aspire to!
Any tips to achieve such fine 60's with street tires? I can't find any worklog of yours, but from what I can remember you have:
D2 coilovers setup for drag stance/weight over front, traction bars, 15s with what tyres?
Do you find burnout even with street tyres helps? Or is more to clean the crap off?
any megasquirt trickery?
Any driver mod tips?

Oh ya! How's those traction bars working out?

Nd4SpdSe wrote:Oh ya! How's those traction bars working out?

Apparently pretty well

marcdh wrote:

hppwdn wrote:street tires (20psi)

Any tips to achieve such fine 60's with street tires? I can't find any worklog of yours, but from what I can remember you have:
D2 coilovers setup for drag stance/weight over front, traction bars, 15s with what tyres?
Do you find burnout even with street tyres helps? Or is more to clean the crap off?
any megasquirt trickery?
Any driver mod tips?

Honestly I think most of it is driving. Even in the all motor days of my probe I cut consistent 2.0 60s with traction bars. There's no funny MS stuff going on, just a base map and the same settings anyone else would use. I'm tuning it on Saturday to raise the boost and get some more power out of it.

For driving tips I'll explain what I do, although it's mainly by feel. For the burnout I roll through the water box and don't stop in it at all. Then I do a good burnout to clean off the tires and warm them up. There's competing theories on whether that helps, but I get good 60s that way so I do it. For launching I hold the revs between 3-4K and feather the clutch at the brink of traction.

For the tires I've really bad mouthed these dunlops for a long time. I'm a diehard Yokohama AVS ES100 guy. But last night once I dropped the pressure to 20psi they were hooking amazingly. For my 17" Subzero rims I have a set of 245/45/17 Yokohama S.Drives (new generation of the ES100). I'm switching to a 17" rim so I can fit a large enough diameter rim/tire combo to stretch my 4th gear traps into the 120s. On the current setup I'm out of gear at 113-114 in 4th.

Here's a link to an up to date mod list for those interested.
http://www.iceyrecords.com/drew/mx3/Mem ... st-web.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I hope that thoroughly answered the questions.

Great info, thanks very much indeed I was amused by you having a PDF of your setup! Quite the dream list though. Drag strips are hard to come by in N Ireland, I've only been testing with dynolicious on my ipod touch, gives me some perspective at least. Seems to me alot is down to that feathering out of the clutch. I hope to improve after I replace my bouncy shocks and springs. Thanks again and good luck with the next runs!

I've only read part of this thread, I've owned alot of cars.
1: I have a hard time believing a k8 ran 15's mine ran 17.1 at 90mph I spun the whole way to the 660
2: Fast is 10's 14's are peppy end of story My mustang ran 13's almost bone stock and that wasn't fast enough it's never fast enough.
3: Slicks at the track are always a good Idea cause the track is no comparison to the street it was built for slicks
4: the kl engine in any form de or ze is an awesome piece of work very advanced technology for the 90's Austrack racing had 13 million to build a car what motor did they choos? why a de then boosted it with twins and got over 800hp out of it on the stock crank. Thats why I bought the mx3

trick69 wrote:I've only read part of this thread, I've owned alot of cars.
1: I have a hard time believing a k8 ran 15's mine ran 17.1 at 90mph I spun the whole way to the 660

You spun to the 660, that's the fault of the driver and/or tires. Traction is far more important than power in fwd. K8s in the 15s isn't too hard. For example, with good 60s I've cut 15 flats as low as 90mph (your 17.1 trap)

trick69 wrote:I've only read part of this thread, I've owned alot of cars.
2: Fast is 10's 14's are peppy end of story My mustang ran 13's almost bone stock and that wasn't fast enough it's never fast enough.

Mustangs and MX3s are two different things. You're comparing a car that runs 16s stock vs a car that run 13s stock. I like to keep my apples and orange where they belong, not compared to each other.

Yeah, I'll take pretty much any Mustang at racing anything but a straight line, or huge circle, but this IS the ¼ mile time list...
If you want to go fast, I've seen 11 second Snowmoblies
Apples, Oranges, Lychee..
I could easily build a Junkyard car for less than $5,000 that would run 12s, but most people, like myself, like the full driving experience... Feel, sound, looks, style, handling, originality, interest from other drivers, reliability, etc..

geeze i thought i would of seen a couple N/A ze's in the 13's? westpalm on probetalk ran a 13.8 @98mph in his mx6 at 98, a couple of you guys have very similar traps and less weight, why is this? i thought a mx6 was heavier than even a probe gt with wider gearing? i just don't see why a sedan is quicker than a hatch, maybe driver i guess? im just curious.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUCBfZ11JuA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The MX6 weighs less than a probe by 100-200 pounds. It doesn't have that giant piece of glass in the hatch like a probe. Short of the racecar probes I've never really heard of a probe doing 13s all motor, but I know of a few MX6s off the top of my head.

My mx3 woulda done 13s on motor had I made more than one pass when it was NA. The track was really far away back then, after I broke an axle and had to get towed home I was in no hurry to get back. The MX6 and MX3 aren't super far off in weight stock for stock. Given the production number difference of MX3 GSs (only in the US from 92-93) and MX6 LSs (93-97) odds are heavily in favor of more publicized MX6s in the 13s.

btw, I'm the one that hand selected westpalms motor and put that car together and sold it to him.

you can make a n/a kl fast. ITB's. look at that na 323 on youtube it runs like 11's, they cant be much lighter then a mx3.

is it really the only example you had at the moment, it's probably world's fastest 323.

turbo it,
simpler
much more potential
and cost 1/4 of what n/a put's in em to have 10hp more

kab-rst wrote:turbo it,
simpler
much more potential
and cost 1/4 of what n/a put's in em to have 10hp more

That kinda depends on your goals. 13s is much cheaper to attain in an all motor setup. All you need is bolt ons, all the same ones you have to buy to go turbo anyway (assuming you have a KL, which can make good power on motor).

12s would require a an aggressive all motor build or extreme weight reduction. At that point, turbo becomes a much cheaper option.

i saw ONCE a mx-3 klze hitting a 13.9, after spending THOUSANDS to get that little 15hp
12's on a n/a kl-ze street legal, never seen to date

aaronthehic from back in the day hit 13.728@100 on a stock ZE swapped Mx-3, but he was damn good at drag racing. Eventually be put on NOS, even plexi'd the hatch and I think was running 11's before blowing the motor.

Searching his posts, I see that he says Brandon (1sickmx3 I believe) ran 13.5@101 all motor. I know he had a straight-neck in his.

kab-rst wrote:i saw ONCE a mx-3 klze hitting a 13.9, after spending THOUSANDS to get that little 15hp
12's on a n/a kl-ze street legal, never seen to date

I'm not sure where you get your "little 15hp" from. On my ZE I made 193whp with boltons and that's about 30whp more than they make stock and close to 100whp more than a K8 makes stock. If it was worth my time I would go build another ZE MX3 just to run 13s, but the fact that the car I built for my roommate does it is enough for me. I had under $3,000 in my ZE MX3 including buying the car and the ZE. The all motor setup was probably my favorite setup for the car.

As for all motor 12s on a ZE I only know of one person that did it on a primarily stock internal'd ZE. It was all stock except for cams and some head work. Did a 13.3 on motor before the headwork/cams and a 12.8 after. Of course it was Dansac, the KL master, now running low 10s in the same car on his turbo setup.
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread. ... ankenprobe" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

To get 12s, turbo is the easier way to go, but for 13s all you need is a ZE, bolt ons, and the driver mod. Most people lack the driver mod.

i'm not talking about some trailer queen car, i'm talking about street legal''aka drive to the trac by itself''

i do respect all the works, and i'm so not-ditching the v6/kl series,not in years, i'm ditching the fact to put thousands worth of parts to hit a 15-20hp,when it's so simpler to get the boost up and get dramatical increase in hp

let's see,
cam-4-500
MS-1500 with all hardware and instalation
pulley-150
flywheel-200
headers and exaust line-1000

right now we have 3-4000$ for what, roughly 20-40whp

put 3-4000 on a turboed car and u'll unleash what...100,150 more hp?


@hppwdn
in fact i never had a ze, i drive a bpt for the last 4-5 years,and i do know that i cant compare both setups, hitting 12 on a bp was hard enough and i do have a shitload of driver mods

in fact taking the world fastest probe isint a good example yet:P as for the 10 sec 323



i do give em props, hitting mid 13 with allmotor ze mx-3 is awesomly good times, better than i ever saw in my whole life at the trac. i did NOT want to insult any of you guys, and i'm sorry if anyone took it that way