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well i'm glad i bought about 3 times too much lol...... i'll give it another go after the weather gets better. i was trying to sneak in wrapping the box before the weather hit but rushed and screwed it up.

ahhh well thats never a bad thing man. always better to have to much then not enough. that way you dont need to worry about mistakes. and yaah this is the type of thing u need to take your time on. especially with suede. Trial and error!

took some pics, didnt realize they got kinda f'd up. look kinda cool tho lol so i'm posting them anyways.









also hit a milestone

so i cant for the life of me wrap this damn box, the curves are impossible!!!!!

went back and got stretch black vinyl and get work that either.... in the sun with a hair dryer 2000w beast lol.

so i got it what i thought was really close last night..... threw it in the trunk and when i came out to finish hooking it up i found the vinyl lifting from the box. it was never perfect but this was very disheartening.



got the coil placement finalized and installed, will hardwire it and "test and tune" in the morning. this heat kicked my a-- today.

i'm gonna spend the rest of the weekend playing with my torino knockoffs and see if i can make them work. if so i'll have to see how much upholstery will cost.

That's a good looking car. I love the matte and CF. The color wheels are growing on me...

10" or 12" ?

I have that SAME subwoofer (10') on a Kenwood 600watt amp, it shocks people(including me) all the time.. I am in love with Infinity. Affordable, durable and crisp....even on the cheap Kenwood amp.

Keep up the great work!!!!!

Lookin well good Matt

i've got the 1052w 10" and i must say..... clean bass but not much off it, it says the sub is only 250rms and my amp is about 350rms. at anything more then about 60% the amp cuts out.

as for the box i'm gonna redo it completey over the winter, same style but a bit bigger box portion and a stronger sub too, sticking with the 10 tho. also gonna go to a monoblock amp.

i just realized that my setup is wrong! i was looking at wiring diagrams and noticed that i had overlooked something so simple.

the sub is a dvc and runs 4ohms/per coil. and my amp bridged runs 4 ohms stable.

this is how it was wired, i overlooked that completely.


this is how it should be. i really need a 2ohm stable monoblock lol

well forced upgrade time i slipped and put a screwdriver right thru the damn sub.

gonna find something on payday and get this stupid project done.

so the fun continues....

i started my car up and it idled funny for a second then evened out, then i revved it a couple times and when the rpms dropped it stalled, now it'll just crank no sputter. checked and have no spark. checked all my connections and everything is good. what the hell happened. internal coil failure?


i now have no vehicle.

Ugh. Well that sucks
My guess is the disty... if your wires are good, there isn't much else that can be the culprit.

honestly i gave up chasing loose ends.

ordered a msd hei coil wire becuase it comes with a power tower for $18. it'll be in tomorrow.
i also ordered a new cap and rotor because the original cap was cracked(not a good candidate for power tower surgery).

so tomorrow night i'll try modding the disty cap and and wire the external coil and cap in. i'm not even gonna plug the 3 pin back in, just wire the coil straight to that lol.

If you are doing the GM High energy ignition module and external ignition coil, you wont need to plug the 3 one back in because thats only for the internal coil and plus youll be cutting that plug off to wire up the coil/module. youll need a 1k ohm resistor for the tach.

it's the stupid 94 disty man, but i didnt see the posts about it being different then the rest. i didnt think i damaged anything taking it all apart but electronics are stupid like that. i know its reassembled properly but it just wont fire.

i didnt realize that some disty used different caps tho, my prd cap is different then my original cap, the bolt holes dont line up.