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I spent some more time reading up on Megasquirt. I've purchased a USB 2.0 to DB9 Serial adapter cable and software to allow me to connect to the MSnS without the oldschool plugin.

I went through the harness wire by wire to make sure they were all connected properly and that I knew their functions. I found one fault in the wiring; extra green wire used in place of white wire, white wire loose in loom. I'll have to remember that or I'll have no crank signal to MSnS! (In other words, if I hadn't spotted that, the car wouldn't run once I went to start it.)

Sometime this week I'll hook the unit to my computer and a loose battery to get a feel for the programming aspect of it.

I haven't updated in awhile.

If you look at the pics of the engine earlier in the thread, you'll note that two pistons were positioned incorrectly. Luckily one of the guys at my shop noticed, or I would have crushed a valve. Thanks for nothing machine shop.

I put one head on today. I'll replace the friction gear springs while I'm in there.

Most recent pic.

Yay, I'm looking forward to this build

I made a prototype of the adapter plate for my engine/transmission.
I'll test fit this to the engine and determine where the holes need to be drilled to mount the transmission before making the final unit out of aluminum.

Getting closer on the plate.







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGzHuwUtumY

Wow, thats the serious shadetree way of doin' it.

Don't have any friends with a CNC/access to a CNC? I'd be more than happy to model it and get you a DWG/DXF.


I LOVE this build! Props, three thumbs up. I get pumped every time there is an update.

I had found a fellow who does CNC with a plasma cutter, and he had tried to make some cuts on 1/2" aluminum with no luck. After a couple weeks of waiting for him to figure out how to cut it, I decided to try my method.

Please use safety glasses, ear muffs and a face mask if cutting this stuff.

More pics:

I still have to make a few more holes, but its coming together.

Yes, I'm still showing you every bloody step.

You should find out of those cap screws have the same strength as the stock bolts. Don't want this thing coming apart on you

The cap screws are 1/2". I was told by the supplier that they are grade 10.

The plate itself uses the engine dowels and bolts.

The connection between the plate and the transmission uses the cap screws. I have been pondering whether I can increase torsional strength at this connection with some sort of dowel arrangement.

The picture with the cap screw used was my test to make sure I could make the chamfered hole properly.

Grade 10 is no specific grade, but a range. They should be fine, though.

What is the marking on the head?


Editing this post instead of posting again, looks like the marking YFS indicates a grade 12.9 which is plenty enough.

YFS, I believe.