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Don't paint the mounting surface of your rotors. Lubricate it with anti-seize compound instead. Paint causes problems with the lug nuts loosening over time. i was thinking of having them Cadmium coated. The pads would wear the coating off in the area where they make contact, but the rest would stay protected....and they'd be gold.

good suggestions everyone.

as for the x-drilled/slotted, i can get the rotors in that form, i just didnt want to spend the money when i was developing the kit so i opted for the cheapest solid ones for R&D purposes.

Since they're made for a heavier car/ truck , you could get away with milling down all of the surfaces to save weight. If you can get them to close to the weight of the originals, I'll buy them. If you can also have them slotted for a reasonable price, I'd be into that, too.
Drilling them concerns me, as they can crack.

fowljesse wrote:Since they're made for a heavier car/ truck , you could get away with milling down all of the surfaces to save weight. If you can get them to close to the weight of the originals, I'll buy them. If you can also have them slotted for a reasonable price, I'd be into that, too.
Drilling them concerns me, as they can crack.

the thickness & overall height of the rotors are virtually identical to stock, thats why i chose them. only weight gain is from the larger diameter and hat of the rotor, which i cant really have milled or altered.

Oh. Cool.
Good to know.
They shouldn't weigh much more then.
We would love to know the exact weight difference.
..and good job

Any hints on what vehicle this rotor is from?

this would be a sweet upgrade once i do the mazdaspeed miata rears