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mx3boyze wrote:If his MX6 is an auto and he swapping to the 5spd tranny, the MX6 ECU wont work. You'll need one from a manual KL MX6.

Wrong, it uses a separate ECU for Auto. You can still use the normal ECU from the auto, it won't care about manual or auto.

Nd4SpdSe wrote:

mx3boyze wrote:If his MX6 is an auto and he swapping to the 5spd tranny, the MX6 ECU wont work. You'll need one from a manual KL MX6.

The ECU doesn't care...i believe they also use a seperate ECU for the auto trans.

+1. that's true.. case in point being KL31/KL36 interchangeability

it would be awesome if we could swap the K8 with this engine ...

OutlaW wrote:it would be awesome if we could swap the K8 with this engine ...
http://images01.olx.pt/ui/2/47/70/18014770_4.jpg

Don't give him any ideas on stuff that most people aren't willing to attempt because of the work and cost involved...

They only made 170hp and 165tq, with the SVT version making 195hp and eventually 200hp and 165tq, so pretty much on par with a ZE, but probably at 3-4x the cost.

Ahh... Contour SVT... A good friend had one. Great torque lines on a dyno - pretty much horizontal.
After I got the ZE running, he had no chance; numbers were too similar, and he was too heavy.
While we're at it, we might as well swap the 3.0 SHO.
But yeah, what he said.

Here's a question for the experienced ZE swapper. Do I need any special tools to do any of the work on the engine or to complete the installation? I'm thinking of things like a puller for the crank pulley. Anything unusual that I might not have in my box or I might have to make a trip for.

Thanks.

Torque wrench and a good socket/wrench ratchet set, and some patients along the way some LOVE TOO!!

You might be able to rent a puller at autozone. I was able to do it w/ a nice big screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Heat it up a little if it's really stuck on there.

I did most everything w/ basic tools like sockets and whatnot. Make sure you have extensions - theyre a life saver.

Hardest parts for me were getting the exhaust downpipe bolts on - they're extremely difficult. And the Rear engine mount is a PITA to get off...the bolt is facing the wrong way so it makes getting the nut off very difficult. This is made MUCH easier by dropping the cross member and taking the mount out completely. If you do this, make sure the engine is being supported somewhat by the hoist, and be careful when removing the engine because the mount will stick out somewhat further and could hit the firewall and wiper cowl when coming out. It makes it ALOT easier to do though, in my eyes at least.

Get a torque wrench!

Air tools are very nice as some of the bolts can be stuck on there, and your arms will get tired quickly!

Get some PB blaster and spray everything a day before, then spray it again before you work.

Beer?

Well I have a pretty complete set of tools, I'm just wondering if there's anything funky that you might call special. From the sounds of things I'll be ok.

I booked the time off today and confirmed the delivery date of my straight necked little friend. March 13th...it is soooo on.

The Purple Beast is about to become the Purple Monster!

You'll need a big socket for the wheel nuts and they can be a bugger. I used a 5ft bar and my buddy who weights around 280lbs before the damn passenger side nut would budge. If you can get a pneumatic chizel it really helps getting the shifter linkage bolts out, some people have had to dremel them off. Order new shifter bolts and plastic bushings. Replace the fuel filter it's way easy with the engine out and any hoses including the heater hoses (watch out for the plastic swivels don't break them). Take pictures of your engine before you pull it so you can easily route things after and take pics of the engine on the ground so you can figure out the vac lines as they can be a bit confusing. Then make the ZE look like your K8 install and enjoy Dude. Oh ya. Replace the valve and intake gaskets. its easier on the ground than in the car, use auto silicone on all the corners and torque everything. Fill your mounts with Durathne 94 if you can find it, it's the best IMO and only fill them 2/3 or your dash will vibrate like mine. lol.

Edit: If you can get an impact gun and compressor. I personally wouldn't do the job without those tools

+1 To axle hub nuts being a HUGE PITA. I grinded mine off because I couldnt get it off any other way. Before you pull the engine out, while the car STILL HAS POWER BRAKES try to loosen them! I didn't and paid the price!

I've had the axles off this car in the last year already, but I don't plan to remove them from the hubs anyway. I do fear the broken header bolt though. I've had many of those. I would like new shifter bushings. I think I will cut some this weekend. I've done many engine swaps in my day, though never this one, so I'm not too worried about the organizational issues. As for filling my engine mounts...I splurged.

BAAAA-CHINGGGGG!!!!

35% stiffer than stock. Not super stiff...but nice and toight.

^Nice. I was gunna go w/ those but I went w/ the poly ones.

or you can Polyfill the MazdaSpeed ones

I want tight...not hard. I'm shooting for a car that's sharp but still comfortable to drive.