MX-3.com

Hey,

This is just the test kit, and for it we used a lower powered shock to make sure it opens without hitting anything. The kits everyone will be getting will come with a higher powered shock than the one in the video. Also, the Pinch point our kits feature when in the open position, had not been installed on the kit for these videos. So no lifting will really be needed, and you will not have to stabilize the door.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley

ovendenk wrote:very slick

i'm real excited to get these now. one question though, why does he keep lifting and stabilizing the door with his had before getting in? shouldn't the shock be able to raise to door on it's own?

thanks.

i believe they mentioned that the test shock was 150lbs. the retail shocks will be 200-350?

Cy wrote:

ovendenk wrote:very slick

i'm real excited to get these now. one question though, why does he keep lifting and stabilizing the door with his had before getting in? shouldn't the shock be able to raise to door on it's own?

thanks.

i believe they mentioned that the test shock was 150lbs. the retail shocks will be 200-350?

Should be plenty...Anyone ever weigh their door? lol

overall weight is amplified by the position of the shock from the fulcrom...

being so close even if the door only weighs 60-80lbs you'd need a 200-350lb shock

Cy is correct, the weight of the door is magnified the closer you get to the pivot point. This is why 90 Degree Kits usually use two 150lb shocks per door,while the Non-90 Degree Kits usually use one 750 - 1100lbs shock per door. It is all based on how close the shock mounts to the pivot point on the arm.

The 90 Degree kits are going to be using one 250 - 300 lb shock per door, while the Non-90 Degree Kits are going to be using one 650-750 lb shock per door.

I will be posting the pics and videos of the Non-90 Degree Kit very soon.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors

Hey everyone,

Here are the pics and videos for the Non-90 Degree Kit. This was also a test kit and will be changing slightly. Also note that this test kit had a 1100lb gas strut on it, but the production kits will feature a 650 - 750lb strut as we found the 1100lb gas strut to be a little strong when trying to close the door. But anyways, here are the pics and videos, let me know if you have any other questions. Also notice the video taken from inside the car, he is not lifting the door at all until it is partially open, the shock does all the work.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors

Do you guys have an in house laser?

waterjet would be just as functional and i believe cheaper?


Funny thought... new AWESOME PARTS....rusty a-- car

Cy wrote:waterjet would be just as functional and i believe cheaper?


Funny thought... new AWESOME PARTS....rusty a-- car

waterjet is messier, also more of a kerf most of the time...depending on material thickness. Lasers are also more versatile, u can etch, weld, cut, and perforate.

both are pretty expensive pieces of gear. Unless you are making enough parts to keep em busy a lot of the time, I'd expect it woud be a lot more practical to sub-contract the actual CnC work.

Not sure about that kerf problem.. Flow International says the following on their site

How thick is the kerf?
The kerf is about 10% larger than the mixing tube diameter. So, for a 0.030" mixing tube, the kerf will be 0.033" Of course, the kerf will increase as the mixing tube grows. Tube growth is about 0.001" per 8 hours of jet-on time.

in any event you can spend between 20K$ to 500K$ on a waterjet.. so even the cost of a basic unit will pay for a lot of outsourcing if you don't have enough work to keep one busy.

The operator on the waterjet at the shop here is a pro...he can etch with it by reducing time-over-point or making different tool paths:
1-to etch deeply
1-to etch shallow
1-to cut the piece out

:each with only a difference in pressure..

It comes in the program i believe, input abrasive material + pressure + material and it can generate a tool path and time to etch work to any depth...
Perforation is only really needed in production, in this case each piece will probably be finished and atleast assembled by hand.

I do agree that it would be messier though

As for a 0.33" kerf.... that's pro... as long as you run a test channel before each batch and adjust accordingly I don't see that being a problem...

Hey,

We do not currently have an in house Laser, we have a shop in town that does our laser cutting for us. As you guys have said, both a CNC Laser Cutter and a CNC Waterjet are VERY expensive pieces of equipment unless you can keep them busy. We are actually going to be aquiring our own CNC Laser (More efficient for our applications, plus we have training and experience running CNC Lasers) in the near future, just because it will cut down on Development time, as well as can be cheaper in the long run as well as what Jarid said, they are more versatile.

As you have all said, Waterjet does have a Kerf, and since we are Using 3/8" - 3/4", this kerf is magnified the thicker the material is, so we have chosen to use CNC Lasers as they are a little more accurate as well as more cost effective. CNC Lasers also have a higher cutting speed for our applications. Also, CNC Waterjets are a better choice when you are cutting material that requires no heat stress in the part or is prone to warping when heated as the Laser is Very hot. And believe it or not, it is more expensive here to have something Waterjet Cut as opposed to Laser Cut.

And yes, the car is rusty..lol...but it is serving its purpose, and that is to allow us to develop a Lambo Door System for it.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors

I used to be a laser tech..guess im biased! LOL everything from 50watt to 8000 watt. FUN STUFF YO!!

If you are interested in gettin a CNC laser contact me for a possible supplier unless you know someone already.

quick question.... is the group buy the only way to get these or are you guys going to start producing them for the public ... i didnt have the money at group buy time but would love a set around summer.