Hey chew*

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 15th, 2007, 9:45 am

Hmmm... I was thinking about making the general color as my car exterior, Laguna Blue. You wouldn't happen to have any cut outs you could sell me? I'd pay you well!

My current tweeters are mounted on the other side of my side view mirrors, I assume that's good, or you think they should go elsewhere?

chew* · Post by chew* » February 15th, 2007, 8:57 pm

I flush mounted mine into the door panels....near that spot. It look's trick and almost like they belong there factory.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 17th, 2007, 7:19 am

Think you can provide a picture of that so that I can get an idea?

chew* · Post by chew* » February 17th, 2007, 11:33 pm

yah ill have to fight with the wife over our camera. I'll get it in a few days. In other news I just got my mx-3 back on the road, So far she needs a heatercore, clutch, headgasket is leaking oil, and a radiator. Luckily I'm a mechanic.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 19th, 2007, 11:39 am

Hey chew*, while you are getting those pics, I need some other help, too. I got the C300.2 amplifiers, and I am working on the speakers. Here's my question. I don't like the stock wiring. What gauge speaker wires should I be using for the door speakers?

chew* · Post by chew* » February 19th, 2007, 8:10 pm

well In "cheat installs" we usually wire the rear speaker wires to the front speaker wires behind the radio. We then hook up the rear speaker wires to an amp. If you choose to run your own wires however 12-14 gauge should be fine. Some say larger wire is better, Im inclined to agree when it comes to power wire however in component speaker applications I think it's a waste.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 20th, 2007, 12:45 am

Okay, 12-14 on the door speakers. Any tips or tricks to run the wire? I tried before, but that piece that goes from the car to the door is a pain in the butt to move around or anything like that. I've seen other people suggest drilling holes?

chew* · Post by chew* » February 20th, 2007, 6:34 am

The right way and trouble free way over the long haul would be to run them through the rubber boot with the factory harness into the doors, If a wire chafes on a drilled hole in your door your amp will not be happy.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 20th, 2007, 8:07 pm

I use a coat hanger with the wire taped to the coat hanger to get it started. Is a little bit of a pain but not half as bad as trying to just feed the wire.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 22nd, 2007, 8:39 pm

Pics as promised. I will take more pictures of some preety cool stuff i've done recently but don't really have the time atm.

tweeter placement

Manual windows with a 6 1/2 MOMO installed. Window is at its lowest point.

Also wanted to add after the speakers are installed Remove the plastic factory cover completely, Wrap the lock and door handle arms in plastic sleeving and completely seal off the entire door with dynamat or other comparable material, also dynamating the inside of the door particularly in the general area of the speakers location. This will help with the sound quality a bit and also eliminate road noise.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 23rd, 2007, 5:34 am

Hmmm, I like that look. I'll have to attempt it or pay someone to do it when I get off this deployment. You are just using 1 amp per 2 speakers, right? I already bought 1 amp, and I don't think I need another since I won't be using rear speakers. But I was thinking about modding the rear panels by the back seats to fit another set of 6.5" speakers, so I might want to pick up another amp, anyways. Just gotta find someone that's good with fiberglass and all that...

If I am going to do this, I might go professional so they can do all the dynamatting for me, since I wouldn't even know where to start.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 23rd, 2007, 10:27 am

I will say this much if you wan't looks use fiberglass, however if you want good sound don't. If you use the polk momo's there will be no need for rear speakers as they are really that loud. Remember my set can be heard crystal clear even with 150 db of bass trying to over power them. I use a kicker kx 650.4 bridged to that set. The amp puts out its rated spec at either 4 channel all channels driven into 2 ohms or bridged 2 channel all channels driven into 4 ohm.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » February 23rd, 2007, 11:40 am

Darn, I bought the Polk Carbon Series 300.2 amplifier.

chew* · Post by chew* » February 23rd, 2007, 9:40 pm

ScooterBovine wrote:Darn, I bought the Polk Carbon Series 300.2 amplifier.

Thats not a problem as I'm sure you won't be pushing 150db. Its should be ample power for a blended sound in the car. The idea is to not have subs or components overpower one another.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » February 24th, 2007, 6:19 am

don't say darn, those are darned nice amps!
Plus, Polk makes their amp for their Polk speakers. I doubt that you'll not be able to bring out the speakers full potential with your setup.

by the way, how much you pay for your amp?

and chew, just thought to let you know, I want your TOUCH button on your panel
You have a bottle of oil on your floor
Don't work on your car, work on my project!

Also, please note that it MUST be 60 degrees or warmer in your work area, or this install will potentially fail, due to discouragement, shaking, and the inability to stop swearing.