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Yup, I am runnuing 1200watts rms so I need a 2 Farad cap. easy. The part that scares me is doing the big three.

I wouldn't sweat it. I would do what I can and the remainder I'd have done by pro installers.

BTW- 1200W RMS That's a lot of rumble.

Good luck

Just saw this.

Mazdaspeed96743 wrote:Okay but like I said earlier I am only running 8G ground wires to do the BIG 2. I hope this help my system from skipping due to voltage drops .

I would use a thicker wire to ground the battery (-) terminal.

FlyVFR wrote:Just saw this.

Mazdaspeed96743 wrote:Okay but like I said earlier I am only running 8G ground wires to do the BIG 2. I hope this help my system from skipping due to voltage drops .

I would use a thicker wire to ground the battery (-) terminal.

Yeah I know I have to buy me some 4G wires soon.

FlyVFR wrote:I wouldn't sweat it. I would do what I can and the remainder I'd have done by pro installers.

BTW- 1200W RMS That's a lot of rumble.

Good luck

lol! Yeah my amp is tuned at 35HZ and I am hitting 144.3DB with one 12 playing music .

Mazdaspeed96743 wrote: lol! Yeah my amp is tuned at 35HZ and I am hitting 144.3DB with one 12 playing music .

With that kind of power who needs a piston engine Simply use the subs as jet engines to power the car. 144.3db is as loud as a Boeing 747

BTW-Make sure you at least use ear protection.

oh don't worry I do not listen to it that loud all of the time! . It gets painful to listen to after a while and it get's really hard to breathe when I full blast it so yeah I only listen to it moderate loud enough so I can hear not the whole town to hear if you know what I mean. I don't wanna get people angry. I boom responsibly .

Haha I did a "BIG 3" and didn't even know it.

4G is the only way to go... I use that for power and for ground.

Also the fuse should be no further than 6" away from the battery terminal.

Shades wrote:4G is the only way to go... I use that for power and for ground.

Also the fuse should be no further than 6" away from the battery terminal.

Good Advice

Okay I did the Big Three and I am totally satisfied with the result's no skipping and no light dimming MX-3 starts faster than ever before! thanks to all that helped me on the way!.

Post some pictures I'd like to see the 4G wire connected to the alternator

Capacitors don't actually ddo all that much, unless you get the PG power block, which is a 25 farad block. (you can start a car with that thing)

I'm running 1400 watts in alpine stereo equipment and I don't have a cap -- and I'm fine, in my line of work, the only time i see the deck shut off is because of the battery being low in charge. best bet is to:

Continue with plans to use 4AWG wire. check your alternator output, make sure it's charging properly.

Also, (if you have enough spare) run a 4AWG straight from your amp ground to your NEG(-) battery post (over the seats to start) see if it still does it, you might just have a poor ground so the amp isn't getting it's full fill of current.

also what kind of head unit do you have running?

mxtr3m3 wrote:Capacitors don't actually ddo all that much, unless you get the PG power block, which is a 25 farad block. (you can start a car with that thing)

25 fards is a bit of overkill for some systems, but can't hurt. Onother way to do it is to add a 2nd battery! Caps work well if the value needed is calculated correctly and installed properly.

mxtr3m3 wrote:I'm running 1400 watts in alpine stereo equipment and I don't have a cap -- and I'm fine, in my line of work, the only time i see the deck shut off is because of the battery being low in charge.

Well the MX-3 GS only has a 90 Amp Alt.

if your battery is located in the boot for say Ze engine, what is the min size cable to use and what should this ideally be fused at ??

Well I figured out the main problem my Clarion HU was skipping so I replaced it with an alpine HU and it doesn't skip to the beat lol. Oh and i'll get some pictures up later but as for now I gotta go talk to you guys later have a good one .